390 FE - What Oil to use???

[tedbull]

I have heard that the 390 motor in my old ford needs a special oil or at least a zinc additive. Is that correct? Also what weight of oil do you guys recomend? I have been using castrol gtx 10-40 for a few years, and then 20-50 for the last couple years. The motor developed a bad oil leak and I wanted the thicker oil in there. I have fixed the oil leak (oil filter adapter gasket) and am overdue for an oil change. The motor doesnt have more than 60,000 miles on it, the truck is a 69 f-250 4x4. Not sure if it matters but the internals are stock, but motor has headers, full dual exhaust, holly intake, holly 670cfm carb. The weather here near seattle is not extremely hot or cold. What oil types and viscocity would be the best for my old motor? Or does it realy matter? Thanks.

Ted.

[hotrodfeguy]

The thing I go by and you put the info in your post TY is temps you operate in. I like a 10-40 when above freezing, and 10-30 under. Now the Zinc ZZDP is for the Lifters/CAM the pressures there are high years ago with good quality lifters made in the USA and not offshore this was not an issue. But such is life. Thus if you have changed out your camlifters from stock its wise to put that in there.

[tedbull]

The thing I go by and you put the info in your post TY is temps you operate in. I like a 10-40 when above freezing, and 10-30 under. Now the Zinc ZZDP is for the Lifters/CAM the pressures there are high years ago with good quality lifters made in the USA and not offshore this was not an issue. But such is life. Thus if you have changed out your camlifters from stock its wise to put that in there.

Ok Thanks. I will change to 10W40 like I run in the rest of my vehicles and look for the ZZDP.

[F100builder]

I could be mistaken or misunderstanding but I don't believe it has anything to do with the cam/lifter material or pressures of years ago as all oil had this additive once upon a time and they were, as far as I know, all flat tappet engines. I would say that all flat tappet motors should use the ZDDP oil or add it to an oil without it. This is absolutely MANDATORY when breaking in a new cam and lifters if it has flat tappet lifters. The ZDDP has slowly been removed from many oils over the years by the EPA as it's considered an unnecessary pollutant. It is not necessary at all in modern roller cam engines because the friction is greatly reduced just by their design (I guess pressure could come into play here but it's the opposite). Moreover, the ZDDP slowly escapes the crankcase via exhaust (pollution) and it kills catalytic converters by clogging them up.

Now, I'm certainly no expert so hopefully someone can correct me if I'm way off but this is what I've understood by what I've heard from several different people. There are oil companies that have us, the classic vehicle owners, in mind so the high-zinc oils can still be found. Typically, the oils that have 'break in' in the name, will have a high zinc content and should be used on a first fire up. There are also non break in oils that still have a sufficient amount of ZDDP that will provide adequate protection to your flat tappet camshafts after break in. Do your research and find out where you can get what you want but you can always mail order what you like if you can't find it in your local area.

[F100builder]

Oh, and unless you live part time in the arctic or in Death Valley, I don't feel that there's much of a reason to concern yourself with switching up the weights of the oil. I tend to run a weight that suits the mileage and wear of the engine. An old, high mileage, sloppy engine with bearings on the brink of becoming just a memory might benefit from a 20-50 or 15-40 and/or a high volume pump. In a freshly machined, tight engine with properly verified oil tolerances, a 10-30 or 10-40 is absolutely fine and with the right machine work performed by a competent machinist, an old FE can run 40-60 psi all day long with a standard volume oil pump. I plan on running 10-40 in my 390 all year long here in south western Idaho where temps can range from 0 (occasionally barely negative) in the winter to 110 in July and August.

[basshound71]

I use Amsoil Z-Rod in my 240. It has the high zinc rating your looking for.

[Clunker]

I looked into the oil thing a while back and came to the same conclusion. I've had great luck with Amsoil in my econobox (better mileage), and I think that their Z-Rod product is the way to go. The rep at the factory recommended 10-30 to me for the old FE engines, but 10-40 is probably fine. For my first oil change, I decided to go with the conventional 10-40 that I already had in the garage along with a zinc additive. The zinc additive was somewhere around $9 if I remember correctly, so I don't see any cost advantage to going conventional + additive over synthetic that includes additive. In another thread, another forum member suggested Shell Rotella, which also has a high level of zinc.

[gregamorton]

I have turned into a 15/40 diesel oil man my self in all my ford engines.

[basshound71]

I know after using the zrod oil my motor quieted down a ton. Now hopefully it frees up the lifter I have sticking.

[sweetlou]

I have turned into a 15/40 diesel oil man my self in all my ford engines.

I use 15/40 Delo or Rotella what ever is cheaper at Wallymart. Always have on all my cars and trucks.

[72BahamaBlue]

I have turned into a 15/40 diesel oil man my self in all my ford engines.

I use 15/40 Delo or Rotella what ever is cheaper at Wallymart. Always have on all my cars and trucks.

15W-40 Shell Rotella for my trucks.

[tomohara]

Was told today by a friend that my '69 390 was intended for single weight oils (30 wt, 40 wt etc) and suggested I use that. Haven't heard that anywhere else - perhaps hogwash?

[1970FordTK]

I live in central North Carolina and have used the bulk 30w oil out of the 55 gallon drum for farm use in every motor/engine on the whole place. The cars/trucks and all the farm equipment, all I know is that it works for me. Just remember some of us go back far enough to know what the metal spout with the knife insert is for..........and back then most oils in the can where strait weight.

[1972hiboy]

Chalk another vote for the 15w-40 delo. when I went through me engine a couple years ago the cam shaft manufacturer even said on the box to use a delo 15w-40 or rotella for break in.

[radioactivelarry]

I looked into the oil thing a while back and came to the same conclusion. I've had great luck with Amsoil in my econobox (better mileage), and I think that their Z-Rod product is the way to go. The rep at the factory recommended 10-30 to me for the old FE engines, but 10-40 is probably fine. For my first oil change, I decided to go with the conventional 10-40 that I already had in the garage along with a zinc additive. The zinc additive was somewhere around $9 if I remember correctly, so I don't see any cost advantage to going conventional + additive over synthetic that includes additive. In another thread, another forum member suggested Shell Rotella, which also has a high level of zinc.

I use Amsoil Z-Rod in my 240. It has the high zinc rating your looking for.

You just can't beat Amsoil, it is the best. Check it out here for 10-30 Z-Rod: http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/m ... e=ZRTQT-EA 10-30 works great as a replacement for straight 30 weight in your FE.

10-50 Z-Rod: http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/m ... e=ZRFQT-EA

Regular premium Amsoil also has levels of zinc and you can run that in your engines.
I have been running Amsoil in my vehicles since the late 80's. I have been running it in my 64 T-Bird since then and I have ZERO problems with any oil issues including no leaks. I also run it in my newer vehicle also.