I Need Hotter Heat.

FoMoCo · Post by **FoMoCo** » Sun Dec 04, 2005 4:35 pm

The air from the outside of the truck is cooling the heater core to were I have no heat. Is there a way or original option that would block the incoming air and instead pull air from inside the cab. Like newer cars have the option to use vent or recycled air. Thanks

Nick

Post by **FORDification** » Sun Dec 04, 2005 5:03 pm

The heater core is on the inside of the cab, so I doubt cold outside air is cooling it off. What's the temperature of your engine when fully warmed up? What thermostat are you running?

If the air coming out of your heater isn't hot once the engine's fully warmed up, then I'd say you either have an obstruction in your heater core or in the lines, not allowing the heated water to circulate through the core. Check the inline valve to make sure it's fully opening, and also run the engine for a few minutes without a radiator cap to bleed out any trapped air in the system not allowing coolant transfer through the heater core.

You might also consider trying to seal up the cab a bit better, to retain the heat you do have. Rusted-out panels will suck the heat right out. If your cab corners are rusted out, stuff some rags down in there to help seal them off until they can be replaced. Check the weatherstripping around the doors and windows to make sure they're sealing. Also seal up any unused holes in the firewall and make sure the grommets on the holes that ARE used are sealing properly.

You can get your truck to also recycle cab air, but it involves sealing off the cowl vents. Go to any hobby or craft supply store and get yourself a thin sheet of magnet material, and cut a piece to fit across the top of the cowl panel, covering the vents. Since that's where the heater draws in air, it'll need another source, so you simply open the passenger-side vent. The blower motor will now suck the existing air in the cab up through that vent. Don't expect miracles though. I have my doubts on just how effective it would be...but that's about the only way it's gonna work that I'm aware of.

rjewkes · Post by **rjewkes** » Sun Dec 04, 2005 5:43 pm

is there a source for the exact grommets?

jor · Post by **jor** » Sun Dec 04, 2005 6:20 pm

Most of the common sources (LMC, Dennis Carpenter, Mac's) have the grommets you're looking for.
When I was in ND for a couple of years I used to partially block the radiator with the piece of cardboard. That's when it was really cold.
jor

flyboy2610 · Post by **flyboy2610** » Sun Dec 04, 2005 7:10 pm

If you don't have a fan clutch, I would recommend installing one.
The stock fan bolted to a snout on the water pump pulley is going to be trying to cool your engine all the time, whereas a fan clutch will only engage the fan when a certain temp is reached. I installed one on my truck and it really helped. Or you could go to electric fans and do essentially the same thing.

390Nut · Post by **390Nut** » Mon Dec 05, 2005 3:00 am

One more thing to think about, besides all the good advice above. What temp thermostat are you running? If its as cold in Missouri as it is here (likely a lot colder, I've lived in the midwest before

) a 160* thermostat wont give you very good heat. It also wont let the engine run optimally, especially if you're running a 360/390 or other FE engine. They prefer to run around 180-190, and I noticed just how much truth there was to this just this last week.

Had some serious over heating, with my relatively new engine. Part of that was the timing was way advanced (inside the dizzy advance mechanism) but, I thought I had a 180* `stat in there, so I replaced it with a 160*. Turns out the `stat was mispackaged, evidently, as it is plainly stamped right on it, "205*"!!!

Now I've got very little heat coming from the heater, and the engine doesn't seem to reach that "warmed up" point until I'm idling at a stop after driving awhile. If I'm moving, it stays below the normal heat range on the guage, and it's averaging around 35-40* lately.

I'll be putting a 180* in there tomorrow, and I bet that solves both problems!

steveheer · Post by **steveheer** » Mon Dec 05, 2005 11:46 am

Yep, all good advise! I'd bet on to cold or stuck open thermostat or plugged header core! My truck with a 180 degree thermostat will cook me out in short order so something's up--

jor · Post by **jor** » Mon Dec 05, 2005 9:38 pm

Part of that was the timing was way advanced (inside the dizzy advance mechanism)

Don't mean to highjack the thread (well, actually I do) but 390Ford, what is your total advance? I'm running 16 initial with 42 total and my 390 performs very well (no vacuum advance). Thanks.
jor[/quote]

rjewkes · Post by **rjewkes** » Mon Dec 05, 2005 10:50 pm

What about heater to dash Defrost hoses? Any source for those? Am i overlooking them in My NPD and Lmc Cats?

hardtailjohn · Post by **hardtailjohn** » Tue Dec 06, 2005 3:27 pm

Rjewkes, go to www.aircraftspruce.com and get SCAT tubing... measure the size and length you need... it's really not that expensive and will last a long long time.
John H.

390Nut · Post by **390Nut** » Wed Dec 07, 2005 3:21 am

jor wrote:
Part of that was the timing was way advanced (inside the dizzy advance mechanism)
Don't mean to highjack the thread (well, actually I do) but 390Ford, what is your total advance? I'm running 16 initial with 42 total and my 390 performs very well (no vacuum advance). Thanks.
jor

Threadjacking in progress!

I found it to be running at just around 56* total by about 3200rpm. Quick little story...

When I built this engine, I wanted EVERYTHING new. I found the current dizzy I have as an ebay auction, listed as a NOS dizzy, with the #'s C8TF on it. Truck dizzy, same as what I had bone stock original in my original engine, so I nabbed it for a $29.00 buy-it-now.

Funny thing is, and a year and a half later I find this out, the advance mechanism is NOT for a truck, or at least no truck I've ever heard of with a 360/390, as the advance arms were 13L and 18L, and it was set on the 18L, with 14* initial. That's 50* total, not including the vacuum advance.

Was running extremely hot, (205* thermostat didn't help, but that's another danged story

) but I've since put it down quite aways, it's currently on 12 initial with 30 mechanical. Light springs, for a little better throttle response, too.

Still have to mess around with it a bit, I don't think it's as good as it can be, but for now, it's running well, and I need to leave it alone for awhile so I don't screw it up.

Oh, and the #'s on the dizzy? Only suffix' I can find for a C8TF dizzy are -H and -L. -H is the what I have in the old engine.

The one I picked up off ebay? C8TF-G. Can't find ANY info on it anywhere. It's most definately not a FT dizzy, either.

Now back to the previously scheduled program....

steveheer · Post by **steveheer** » Wed Dec 07, 2005 2:00 pm

I had a distributor from an FE out of a very early 70's truck and it had a reluctor arm with over 20 degrees--I think it was a 21L.

The smallest advance was a 15L and I wanted to run around a 12 degree initial= 42 degrees total--SO--to the junkyard I went and that distributor went flying over my shoulder!

FoMoCo · Post by **FoMoCo** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 10:49 am

Hey all thanks for the replies. All the rubber in and around the cab is new and there are no openings. I have an electric fan and turned it completely off. The heater core is new along with the attachmets.

I fixed the problem by removing the vent "on, off" slider thingy by the passenger kick panel. After that I duct taped the incoming air shut in the fender well. This forces the truck to re-circulate the air which also keeps it from sucking in rich exhaust fumes.

Nick

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