1968 2WD 351c

[w_c]

Finally got around to buying an 1968 F100 this past January. I am not a mechanic by trade, but I think I know enough to get to fixing things. The truck originally had a 240 6 cylinder engine, got this from the VIN number, but the previous owner swap the engine from a 1970’s Ranchero. He did not remember the model, or had access to the Ranchero anymore. It seems the swapped engine is a 351C.

The good:

• I think the body is pretty solid, minimum rust on the usual areas. Not bad for a 50 year old truck
• The 351c seems to be in pretty good condition, it definitely moves when you step on the throttle. I have not done a compression check, but will do one later on

The bad:

• However did the engine swap, did a piss-poor job mounting the engine. The engine is mounted on parts of steel angles, and the original ranchero engine supports without any rubber bushings. The engine does not seem to leveled, see the image below. What do you guys think about that?
• Transmissions and Engine have some oil leaks
• Suspension is ****. Seems to have been lower by either cutting or by heating the springs, so it handles like a shopping car
• The paint job is bad too

What I done:

• Repaired all the electrical hacks, the harness is back to stock and my dash is working now, no third party gauges. I want it too look stock
• 3G Alternator Upgrade

Next on the list, fix the engine perches and supports.

Thanks of the views

[Ranchero50]

The mounts are simple enough to sort out if you can find a stock setup in a junkyard. The ranch mount do have rubber in them. Just cut the angle iron off and bolt the stock ones in place.

[w_c]

I got the perches out of a 1978 with a 400 engine one it. From searching around, and the article on engine perches here at fortification, these should fit the truck and the 351c. Unless I misunderstood. Just need to drill that extra hole to bolt them on. Only problem is, I have never remove an engine before, will see how that goes. The plan is to remove the font clip, then the engine. I'm going to follow this https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1013 ... moval.html. Will post updates. Thanks for the feedback.

[RottenAppleRed]

For what it's worth...a 400 has the same mounts at a 429, 460 and 351M. A true 351 Cleveland has the same mounts as all other Ford small blocks (260, 289, 302 and 351W). The bellhousing bolt patterns use the exact same information.

If your engine is indeed a 351C, motor mounts from an F100 equipped with a 302 are what you need. My '72 F100 currently has a '70 Cleveland 4V between the fenders. Extra info...stock manifolds or Sanderson headers work best.

[w_c]

For what it's worth...a 400 has the same mounts at a 429, 460 and 351M. A true 351 Cleveland has the same mounts as all other Ford small blocks (260, 289, 302 and 351W). The bellhousing bolt patterns use the exact same information.

If your engine is indeed a 351C, motor mounts from an F100 equipped with a 302 are what you need. My '72 F100 currently has a '70 Cleveland 4V between the fenders. Extra info...stock manifolds or Sanderson headers work best.

RottenAppleRed,

I'm going to buy these motor mounts. Did you do the swap? If so, what motor mounts did you buy?

Also, do you have any photos of your engine? I was wandering where it seats on the engine bay. I think my engine currently seats a bit to much to the front. Take a look at the attached pics. That is the space between the firewall, and the back of one of the engine head.

As for the headers and everything else, will see what happens once the engine seats where it supposed to be. Maybe ill have to get new headers etc...

Thank you for the input.

[DuckRyder]

That doesn’t look right at all to me.

If it was me, I’d determine if it was for sure a 351c or a 351m/400m and seek out the proper factory perches and mounts per RottenAppleReds post.

[Jacksdad]

You need the perches from a small block bump too.

20180324_220523.jpg

[RottenAppleRed]

For what it's worth...a 400 has the same mounts at a 429, 460 and 351M. A true 351 Cleveland has the same mounts as all other Ford small blocks (260, 289, 302 and 351W). The bellhousing bolt patterns use the exact same information.

If your engine is indeed a 351C, motor mounts from an F100 equipped with a 302 are what you need. My '72 F100 currently has a '70 Cleveland 4V between the fenders. Extra info...stock manifolds or Sanderson headers work best.

RottenAppleRed,

I'm going to buy these motor mounts. Did you do the swap? If so, what motor mounts did you buy?

Also, do you have any photos of your engine? I was wandering where it seats on the engine bay. I think my engine currently seats a bit to much to the front. Take a look at the attached pics. That is the space between the firewall, and the back of one of the engine head.

As for the headers and everything else, will see what happens once the engine seats where it supposed to be. Maybe ill have to get new headers etc...

Thank you for the input.

I wanted to acknowledge that I read your post. I'll get back later tonight. Pics may have to be tomorrow.

[RottenAppleRed]

Ok, now that I'm settled in...I want to touch on your questions.

The link to the Jegs motor mounts shows th correct ones. That is for a Cleveland/small block.

I did do the swap myself and I can list a few things I ran into after the rest.

Your engine does look like it sits quite a bit forward. This may be due to the factory perches not being for a small block. This may actually help for header clearance. Your headers may be pointing directly at the crossmember and need a set of offset header x-tensions. It may pose a new problem with radiator clearance, maybe not.

For the record, it looks like you have a true Cleveland and not a 351M/400. The bellhousing would be much taller at the top, otherwise.

My swap had some issues. My Cleveland is out of a 1970 Cougar and is well built. The car is currently in the body shop and has been for a ridiculous amount of time. I got tired of not hearing the 351C, so I decided to put it in my recently acquired (at the time) '72 LWB. The original FMX is long gone and replaced by a C6.

My truck was originally equipped with a 302 and 3 on the tree. The manual trans is shorter than the C6, so I had to move the crossmember back. This just required drilling new mount holes in the frame and a shorter driveshaft.

Being inexperienced with the ins and outs of the Bump, I didn't know the C6 would have major clearance issues with the cab floor. It turns out that there is a bolt down pan for 4 speed and C6 equipped trucks. The tranny tunnel has to be cut out about 3/4" inside the outer edge of the bolt down pan. I sure wish I had this info before I started cutting the floor out.

Another issue was the oil pan touched the engine crossmember. I used extended length mount bolts and a 3/4" steel sleeve between the mount and the engine block. It didn't change the height of the engine enough to cause any issues elsewhere.

I thought for sure that my Cougar headers would clear, but no dice. I ended up going with some well built Sanderson shorty headers. They make them specifically for our Bumps with Cleveland swaps.

Because Clevelands have questionable cooling efficiency, I decided to toss the factory radiator.

I was able to fabricate a solid throttle linkage with the factory peddal, a piece of all-thread and a pair of rod ends.

I can't give facts beyond this because I was trying to get it all finished before my favorite local car show last fall. I ran into the floor issue and my disc brake conversion brackets were a touch off, so I had to back burner the project until now. Too much Murphy's Law over and over. I will eventually do a thread on the build, but not until I've reached drivability.

I can send pics as needed via text and email. Just PM me with info.

[Ranchero50]

The Jegs ones are for a 302 into a little Ranger swap, not in an F-100.

If it is indeed a 302 based 351c get the small block stands and stock motor mounts and you are done. If it's a 460 based 351m or 400 you'll need to deal with the extra hole on those perches.

[w_c]

Thank you for all the useful information everyone. I use the Ford V8 Engine Identification article as a guide to and identify the engine. The engine has all the listed features for a Cleveland, it also has the casted *4 on the corner of the cylinder heads. I don’t know if this feature is also true for the 400 though. I have the 400 perches, and I will buy the stock motor mounts for a 302 engine as recommended by Ranchero and Jacksdad. RottenAppleRed, thank you for all the information. I have no idea what transmission I have, I’ll try to identify this upcoming week. Ill PM later on. Thanks again everyone.

[crazyhorse]

Mr W C , congratulations.
I hope you enjoy the Cleveland motor in your truck.

[crazyhorse]

The engine has all the listed features for a Cleveland, it also has the casted *4 on the corner of the cylinder heads.

Mr W C , I think the "4" on the upper corner of the heads means they are 4 V heads.

[RottenAppleRed]

Thank you for all the useful information everyone. I use the Ford V8 Engine Identification article as a guide to and identify the engine. The engine has all the listed features for a Cleveland, it also has the casted *4 on the corner of the cylinder heads. I don’t know if this feature is also true for the 400 though. I have the 400 perches, and I will buy the stock motor mounts for a 302 engine as recommended by Ranchero and Jacksdad. RottenAppleRed, thank you for all the information. I have no idea what transmission I have, I’ll try to identify this upcoming week. Ill PM later on. Thanks again everyone.

I don't see fins on top of the tranny, so like not a C6. Bellhousing is probably removable, making it either a C4 or FMX. If the gear case is aluminum, it's a C4. Put a magnet on it, if it sticks, the case is iron...FMX. Of course this is based on the trans being an automatic. If this is a '70 from a passenger car, it's likely to be an FMX. They are heavy, a little more expensive to build, but very reliable. After all, my stock 300 horse '70 4V was factory backed with one. I opted for the weight loss and was needing to do the swap in a weekend, back in my daly driver days. The FMX is also shorter in length than the C6 and may have fit in the truck where the stock transmission sat.

The header tubes in the pick look like 1 5/8" primary...could either be for 4V or 2V, if made by Dynomax, Cyclone or Blackjack. I almost had the exact style header fitting in my Bump, but didn't want to have to move everything forward.

The intake looks like an Edelbrock Torker 4V or a Wiend X-Celerator 2V. If you find the name or take a wider angle pick, that might help to identify the engine.

The 400 perches are the same as a big block 460. The Cleveland uses small block perches. The mounts in the Jegs link are for the Ranger swap, but we used to use Bump mounts in this swaps, before kits came out. Also, they come in different locations to allow the swapper to locate the engine fore and aft. This may come in handy.

[Jacksdad]

The picture I posted are of the perches I pulled from a wrecked F250 with a 351w. I believe the big block ones will work at a push - they sit the motor a little higher if memory serves - but small block perches would be better if you can source them. They can be hard to find, but they're the ones that will sit the motor at the right height.