My Ford 300 Engine Build

[trozei]

Got some long awaited pistons today.

[guhfluh]

Pretty! What CR planned?

That's basically exactly what I want to use for my 300 build. Holley HP, Offy C modified for DP, HD manifold, but using a HX or possibly HY35 for a lower powerband, lighter Eagle Rods of unknown spec and undetermined pistons. I'm not sure yet how to package an IC in a way I'd like and W/M injection would probably get installed either way.

What are your plans for intercooling and for the exhaust heat between the manifolds?

[trozei]

Pretty! What CR planned?

That's basically exactly what I want to use for my 300 build. Holley HP, Offy C modified for DP, HD manifold, but using a HX or possibly HY35 for a lower powerband, lighter Eagle Rods of unknown spec and undetermined pistons. I'm not sure yet how to package an IC in a way I'd like and W/M injection would probably get installed either way.

What are your plans for intercooling and for the exhaust heat between the manifolds?

I think the compression ratio worked out to something like 8.3:1, but that's going off of memory.

The HX and HY35 are old school. Get an HE351CW. It's a lot better. Those are however 60mm turbos whereas mine is a 56mm turbo. You will have slightly more lag until full boost.

I wouldn't say that lightweight rods are necessary, but what I will say is that they'd have to be custom and do you really need $3,000 connecting rods? Just find yourself some C5AE 240 rods and use a 331/347 SBF stroker piston like I am. Mine are Probe 11938-030.

[guhfluh]

I actually just junked a set of 240 rods with my old engine, and didn't think rods ran that much for a custom set, but it's been a few years since I checked. The HE351CW is the other one I'd run if I came across one for a decent price, and the HX and HY are more because of price. The HY should spool quite fast on a 300, as I'm used to how quick they spool on 2.0-2.4L 4cyls. and that's what would interest me for my truck setup as well as its power potential. If I had an auto, I'd be okay with a little higher powerband, but I'm interested in a lower one for my truck.

Mine won't realistically get done anytime soon, unless this engine gives up, but I'll eagerly watch your build and results:)

One other thing I've been contemplating is how to cleanly run a surge tank for the EFI setup, without breaking the bank. What's your plan?

[trozei]

My plan is to run a baffled tank with an internal pump.

[trozei]

I got fed up with working the same hours as the machine shop was open, so I sent my dad down to go pick it up for me. I completely forgot how grey cast iron is. I'm so used to the brownish colour.

[trozei]

Picked this up today.

[68shortbed]

Nice build, always liked the old straight liners. You may already have plans to do so, but after working in a machine shop many years ago, you would be surprised how many assume parts are clean and ready to go. Seen a lot of hard earned money go down the drain due to stuck gunk or bead blast material in passages and bolt holes. Engine cleaning brush kit is a must have. Look forward to the build.

[trozei]

Nice build, always liked the old straight liners. You may already have plans to do so, but after working in a machine shop many years ago, you would be surprised how many assume parts are clean and ready to go. Seen a lot of hard earned money go down the drain due to stuck gunk or bead blast material in passages and bolt holes. Engine cleaning brush kit is a must have. Look forward to the build.

If you've got any tricks for me, feel free to share.

[jzjames]

wanna subscribe to your thread, I wish I had the guts to rebuild mine myself. It's the original 67 engine never rebuilt. Im getting horrible blowby at this point, and have looked into having it rebuilt by someone else. Yeah, good luck, not around here on Kitsap Penisula Washington. These engines are considered antique by the mechanics nowadays.

I noticed you removed the whole front clip on your truck, is that the best way to go? Can you just remove the front grille, support and radiator? Im not confident with bearings and plastigage, dont trust my torque wrench, and Im not sure I could break-in an engine correctly.
Wish I could find a good engine rebuilder like back in the 70's.

[trozei]

wanna subscribe to your thread, I wish I had the guts to rebuild mine myself. It's the original 67 engine never rebuilt. Im getting horrible blowby at this point, and have looked into having it rebuilt by someone else. Yeah, good luck, not around here on Kitsap Penisula Washington. These engines are considered antique by the mechanics nowadays.

I noticed you removed the whole front clip on your truck, is that the best way to go? Can you just remove the front grille, support and radiator? Im not confident with bearings and plastigage, dont trust my torque wrench, and Im not sure I could break-in an engine correctly.
Wish I could find a good engine rebuilder like back in the 70's.

You're not too far away from bigger cities. Surely there is someone around who knows what he's doing. On FordSix.com, Schap's Automotive Machine in Longview and Earls Machine Shop in Seattle have been recommended.

Removing each panel separately takes a lot longer and if your truck is anything like mine, which is a truck that spent its life in Spanaway, there will be many rusted bolts. I took one look at the junction between the grille, fender, and inner panel and said, "Nope!". Taking the front clip off as a whole was much easier.

[CrypticRacer13]

Love seeing your build on instagram, nice to see you on board with us

Oh, hey. What's your username?

Crypticracerx I belive haha

[timmytim]

Did you finish your build? Really nice photos. You must do that for a living

[trozei]

Did you finish your build? Really nice photos. You must do that for a living

Wouldn't that be nice. I'm 18 years old. I definitely do not do this as a career. I might one day though. I enjoy it.

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I've been back and forth at the machine shop going over some things with the engine builder. We had a discussion about what I was going to do about my valvetrain, as my exhaust valves are 0.101" longer than the intakes. I gave him a seal, a spring, and a retainer and we played around for a bit. We had to machine the valve guides narrower to allow seal fitment and shorter to allow for valve lift.

Here it is with a port and polish, hardened seats, and an 0.008" shave. I have always loved the look of a freshly surfaced head or block. It's so pretty to look at.



Final machining on the head was all finished up this morning. Picked it up and gave the man his money. I then measured out the stud threads and bought some rocker studs. My valvetrain is very Bowtie-like.

Rockers: Chevrolet 250
Valves: Chevrolet 350
Studs: Chevrolet 350

Funny how that works.







Also I had a peek his shop and found my crankshaft which I had him clean. I've never seen it so grey before.



Just gotta bore to fit the 0.030" over pistons and then assemble everything. I don't think it'll even need to be shaved.

[timmytim]

You may need to run push rod guide plates with those rockers