My 302 Stroker Build

[Florian]

Damn.. I knew there was something wrong when I got the fittings so easily

Okay I already found a company over here that sells NPT fittings over the internet. Just have to make sure that my machinist has got the right tap for NPT.

Thanks!!!

Florian

[ScreaminZ]

What threads you use are really irrelevant so long as your adapter matches whatever threads your machinist can put in the block. It'd also be a good idea to make sure your fittings match up to the sending unit so it seals well.

[Florian]

The machinist called me today, they finally got the remains of the extension out It was a broken off easyout stuck in there, that´s why it was so hard to drill. And it wasn´t welded They could even save the old thread.

The block will get cleaned again and I can pick it up on Monday.

Florian

[DuckRyder]

While I have no idea where you might find one over there, the actual part is about 2 inches (~50mm) long hex shaped and the end is cut and threaded at approximately 45 degrees.

This thread discusses it and has a picture:

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/c ... gauge.html

I would be careful using an assortment of adapters and fittings as they might succumb to vibration...

[Florian]

I will be using the right extension now, since my machinist could save the old thread.

Unfortunately I have almost no time for my truck at the moment..very busy with school stuff. But I´m looking forward to the holidays

[Florian]

Got my school stuff finished today Tomorrow I´ll start to prepare everything to reassemble the engine. It´s too cold in the shop right now, that´s why I´ll use our Bluebird bus as my engine shop, with an alectric heater it should be good

Florian

[Florian]

Hey!

Finally made some progress on my engine. Cleaned the block yesterday and installed all the plugs and the camshaft today. I think something with the camshaft is not quite right though, I´ll explain that in a second. Here are some pictures first:

My "engine-shop" in our bus:





The block with the freeze plugs in:



And now to the problem I´m having with my camshaft: I installed the cam plug and then the camshaft. The problem is that even with the camshaft thrust plate in place, I can move the cam back and forth. Could it be that I didn´t drive the cam plug deep enough inside the block? Here you can see the plug in the block:







Here´s a short video of the camshaft play. You have to use the highest resolution to really see something...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQpOiNSZYkc

Here you can see the cam in the two positions:

Pushed in:



Pulled out:



So, you see when I press the cam in there is some space between the thrust plate and the front of the camshaft.

When you look at the positions of the camshaft lopes to the holes of the lifters from above, the first position, the pulled out position, looks right. Also the cam bearings and the journals line up in the pulled out position. That´s why I think this would be the right position. When pushed in the journals wont line up with the bearings.

So why is this movement there? It shouldn´t be like that I guess?! The only cause for this that I can think of is that the cam plug needs to be driven in deeper or did I miss something?


And here are pictures of both sides of the thrust plate:





Is my thrust plate worn out? You know I had problems with the sheared of dowel pin and all the bearings were very bad on this engine. Do I have to replace the thrust plate?


Also, there was this notice included with the timing chain and gear set I got from Summit.





It says that I should use the flat bolts instead of the hex bolts that I have because of clearance issues with the camshaft gear and the bolt heads. In my opinion the old bolt heads show enough clearance to the cam gear even when the cam is pushed in. So should I go with the countersunk bolts or stick with the old ones?

I´m looking forward for your help guys! Thanks!

Florian

[Ranchero50]

That cam retainer should probably be replaced or at least checked to make sure the burrs aren't high spots. The timing chain sprocket cages the cam movement by holding the retainer plate between the sprocket and the cam.

Which timing chain set did you get? The typical mid '80's 5.0 mustang spec double roller Cloyes set works and fits without modification. I don't know why the Summit branded one would be different unless they are using Chinese knocks offs again and the metal quality sucks so they had to make it thicker...

Jamie

[fordman]

here is what i know about cam movment. thanks some to a guy called big red or something like that. the original cam had a spacer plate on the front of it. when goign up to a double roller cam you must remove that spacer and not use it because the double roller chain has a lip or spacer made onto the back of it. or most of them do. so like ranchero said it should be ok with the double roller cam gear. i would replace that cam retainer though. usually the botls that hold the cam retainer are a phillips head stove bolt. atleaset they are on the Fe engines.

another thing i have learned is that the cam bearings if worn out can cause the cam to move back and forth enough that it will break that retainer plate. this is while the enigne is running. i am sorry i could not get a picture o fthe 302 retainer plate or bolts on my old engine. but it is a 1994 model 5.0 anyway. so it may be slightly different. i havent pulled the timing chain on it yet.

[Florian]

Just to make that sure I got that right, there isn´t anything other than the pulling force of the timing sprocket, which pulls the camshaft against the thrust plate and away from the freeze plug at the rear? If that is true, then a bit of camshaft movement must be normal, right?

And there is no such thing as a spacer or something that goes between the back of the cam and the freeze plug, that would limit the cam´s play?


For the timing set, this is the one I bought:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G6620-B/


I´ll try to get a new thrust plate tomorrow. With the old one I think there should be no clearance issues, we´ll see how the new one will be. But I don´t want to buy a new timing set. If there is not enough room I will use the countersunk bolts.

[Ranchero50]

This is correct. You only want a couple thousanths, the specification should be in the manuals. If it moves too much the distributor geartrain will wear excessively and your ignition timing will suffer.

Jamie

[Florian]

You only want a couple thousanths

Okay, and this is measured when the sprocket and the thrust plate (the chain also??) are mounted and everything is torqued to specification, right?

I´ll get the new thrust plate and see how it works out.


But without the crankshaft mounted and the timing chain installed, I can´t really fasten the cam bolt that attaches the sprocket to the cam, so I can only measure the cam play after the crank is installed, right? Because I can´t keep the cam from turning when fastening the cam bolt, without blocking it over the chain and the crankshaft.

[Ranchero50]

No, you can do the checking now. Put the cam sprocket on and check the front to aft movement and see how smoothly the cam spins. The cam should spin nicely if the cam bearings are installed correctly and the timing chain sprocket fit is correct.

[Ranchero50]

I guess I should have added that you'll have to take the sprocket back off when you put the chain on the crank...

[Florian]

But how can I bolt the cam bolt up to the right specification, when the cam turns with the bolt?