My 302 Stroker Build

Engine, ignition, fuel, cooling, exhaust

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Florian
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My 302 Stroker Build

Post by Florian »

Hey guys!

So I decided to start a new thread for the progress on the build up of my stroked 302. Everyone who wants to see where I started from and which problems I had can read these two threads:

http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... &start=210

http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 9&start=75


I also want to thank all of you guys here at Fordification.com, especially Dragon, for your help! I would not be where I am now without your help. :fr: :fr: :fr:


Okay, so now to the engine. I took her apart because the dowel pin on my camshaft sprocket sheared off and messed up my engine´s timing. Then I found out that the entire engine was pretty worn out. Someone must have used very dirty oil in there for quite some time.

Here´s the plan:

- 0.030" over 302
- Scat stroker kit, 3.25" stroke, 332cui
- Crower Power Beast cam
- Edelbrock Performer cylinder heads
- Weiand Stealth intake
- 600 Holley
- many many new parts.. :eek:


The block is bored, the entire rotating assembly is balanced and all the parts are now here :D So it´s time to start wrenching 8)


That´s what I call a truck load full of cool parts :wink:

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The block on the engine stand:

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And here´s already the first problem. The PO broke off the oil pressure sending unit and sealed it up with an adhesive, I totally forgot about that. You can see the adhesive in the pic above. So I removed it and found this:

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Here´s the new sending unit:

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I haven´t got the tube that connects the block with the sending unit, I forgot that I needed it and didn´t order it. How is that thing attached to the block? Is it screwed in? Can I just drill the remains of the old tube out and tap the hole afterwards?

Thanks!

Florian
1971 Ford F100, 302cui, 3 on the tree

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Re: My 302 Stroker Build

Post by basketcase0302 »

How is that thing attached to the block? Is it screwed in? Can I just drill the remains of the old tube out and tap the hole afterwards?
It's a 3/8" NPT threaded fitting. I'd drill it smaller then use an easy-out, (has left hand threads to back out broken studs and piping). That should come out pretty easy, then use the tap to clean up the threads.

Good luck with that stroker, (I've always wanted to build one-never quite had the funds to do so). :( :thup:
Jeff
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Florian
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Re: My 302 Stroker Build

Post by Florian »

Thanks for your reply! I tried to drill a hole in there today, but it was too hard. It might be that the PO already tried to drill a hole and broke off a drill bit that is now stuck in there. I will take the block to the machine shop again tomorrow, I hope they can get it out :pray:

Florian
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Re: My 302 Stroker Build

Post by Florian »

Hmmm. Took it to the machine shop today. They´ll try to get it out until next week. But they need to know the dimensions of the thread. It´s 3/8" but how many threads per inch has it got? Does anyone know that? How is the tube that connects the sending unit with the block called?

Hope everything works out :pray:

Florian
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Re: My 302 Stroker Build

Post by ScreaminZ »

I'm not sure what your best source is for that part, but I believe it's called an "Oil Pressure Sending Unit Extension". I'm pretty sure the sending unit and extension are both 1/4"-18 pipe thread, which is tapered.
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Florian
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Re: My 302 Stroker Build

Post by Florian »

Just a thought:

That extension tube, is it anything special other than a normal tube that clears the block so that you can mount the sending unit? It´s just a regular piece of tubing that gets screwed in the block and the sending unit is bolted on to right?

Now if the old thread can´t be safed, could I just fabricate my own extension tube?
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Re: My 302 Stroker Build

Post by ScreaminZ »

Nothing special at all. You can easily fabricate your own tube. If you had the idiot light, the sensor is very small and attaches directly to the engine block. I don't know for sure why the sensor for a gauge uses that long extension. Maybe the sensor is too big to fit directly on the block?
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Florian
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Re: My 302 Stroker Build

Post by Florian »

Great! Then it should not be a real problem. Puhhhh :P

The gauge type sending unit it too big to mount it directly, especially when you have got a mechanical fuel pump I think.


Look what I just found, a lil redneck, but it seems to work: :D

Image


How big should the ID of that tube be? Just asking because I didn´t ever see one.
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Re: My 302 Stroker Build

Post by ScreaminZ »

I'm pretty sure a 1/4" pipe thread's gonna have a 1/4" hole in it. Not that it really matters. I think any hole of any size within reason will work perfectly fine. As long as the pressure gets to the sending unit.
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Re: My 302 Stroker Build

Post by Florian »

I bought some 1/4" hydraulic fittings today. Looks fine, but does it also need the 45° angle? My extension is flat. I don´t think the angle changes anything right?
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Florian
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Re: My 302 Stroker Build

Post by Florian »

Here is it:

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Re: My 302 Stroker Build

Post by ScreaminZ »

That should do it. The bend is only necessary if you need to clear something else that may be in the way. All depends on fuel pump, accessories, etc.
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Florian
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Re: My 302 Stroker Build

Post by Florian »

Okay great! Hopefully they can get the remains of the old extension or whatever is in there out. :pray: If they need to drill the hole bigger then I can still get an adapter fitting for it and it should be fine also. :)
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Re: My 302 Stroker Build

Post by Ranchero50 »

Those hydraulic fittings should be BSPP, Britsh straight pipe threads, different animal that uses the flange to seal the joint. National Pipe Threads use the taper in the thread to form the seal. BSPP are different thread pitch so you may have a leak between your hydraulic fitting and the sensor. You can get the block tapped to whatever you need.

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Re: My 302 Stroker Build

Post by ScreaminZ »

Good eye! I keep forgetting he's on the other side of the pond. I just take NPT for granted around here. I would think if that fitting needs the flange to seal, the surface of the block by the hole may need to be machined flat to allow good mating to the flange.
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