Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild

Engine, ignition, fuel, cooling, exhaust

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Dragon
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild

Post by Dragon »

A 302 does not have a one piece gasket. Hard to do when the timing cover bends down to fit the pan

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-T ... /?rtype=10 See the black rubber that goes down the curve in the cover.

Oh I see. I don't see why not if it is built good (the gasket) you won't have cover seals to leak at the corners.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-O ... /?rtype=10
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild

Post by 70_F100 »

Florian wrote:One thing came to my mind, which assembly lubricant or -type is the best?
For MANY years, I've used Lubriplate 105 on any engine I've built. http://www.lubriplate.com/products/grea ... rease.html

When I first started working on Detroit Diesel (VERY early in my career), the old guys in the dealership and the Service Manager always said to use STP, which also worked well.
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools talk because they have to say something.--Plato
Why is it that there's seldom time to fix it right the first time, but there's always time to fix it right the second time???

That's not an oil leak :nono: That's SWEAT from all that HORSEPOWER!! :thup:
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild

Post by Dragon »

I use Molykote G-paste on all bearings cam lobes lifters and if true moly ring the cylinder walls valve stems and Pilot bushing. If chrome moly rings then on the piston skirt only with all excess wiped off. The G-Paste is so slick if it gets on iron or chrome moly rings they will never set. You can look up Molykote G-Paste at Dupont.com. Ultra slick and with burnishing embeds itself in almost any surface for a very slick coating. I put G-Paste in the oil of my Harley and 70,000 miles of 140mph Wheelies and canyon runs the motor was till looking new inside.

I have used STP and Lucas for basic engines. With Molykote I never had a cam failure even with a 700 lift cam.
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98 Volvo S70 2.4T Auto
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild

Post by Florian »

Thanks!

I made a checklist and have some more questions:

1. Oil pump and oil pick up screen:

Standard or high volume? Standard or high pressure? Does the ´71 truck oil pan differ from other application´s oil pans? Can I use this high volume, standard pressure pump with this pick up:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEL-M68HV/
and
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEL-68-S/

There is this pick up screen that says it fits for ´69 to ´79 F100s:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEL-6 ... refilter=1

..but it´s not in stock right now..can I use the one above also?


2. Camshaft bearings:

I found these here:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-173100H/

Are they okay? Will have them installed by the machine shop.


Do I need thrust bearings also? Like these:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-3 ... ear%7c1971


3. Freeze plugs:

Found this kit:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-3 ... /?rtype=10

Is the center, aluminium-colored plug the one behind the cam? Or do I need to get that one sperately? Is this set okay generally?


4. Water pump:

Should I get a new high volume water pump? Thought because of the higher displacement that it will get with the stroker kit..


5. Fuel line to carb and gas linkage:

Do I need any new parts to hook up the Holley 600cfm carb?


6. Transmission / clutch:

Can I do any maintenance on the transmission and clutch while I´m at it? New transmission fluid? It´s a 3speed manual. The clutch plate was changed by the PO.


7. Setting timing:

Would a timing degree wheel a good idea to set the timing of the engine? If yes which ones are available and which would you recommend me?


8. Gasket sealers/adhesives?

What to use for all the gaskets?


9. Water filler neck and thermostate:

Would it be a good idea to change these out also?



A lot of questions...would be awesome if you guys could help me again :fr: :fr: :fr:

Thanks!

Florian
1971 Ford F100, 302cui, 3 on the tree

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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild

Post by Dragon »

High volume is better for your app. The pump has larger gears but stock pressure spring. The larger gears keep the oil galleries filled. High pressure can to if there is not a lot of bypass. Use High Volume with the open face pickup.
Florian wrote:
2. Camshaft bearings:

I found these here:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-173100H/

Are they okay? Will have them installed by the machine shop.
Your engine kit does not come with cam bearings? Most come with all bearings and freeze plugs. If not they are good for your application.
Florian wrote: Do I need thrust bearings also? Like these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-3 ... ear%7c1971
Florian wrote: 3. Freeze plugs:

Found this kit:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-3 ... /?rtype=10
Is the center, aluminium-colored plug the one behind the cam? Or do I need to get that one sperately? Is this set okay generally?

4. Water pump:
Should I get a new high volume water pump? Thought because of the higher displacement that it will get with the stroker kit.
The plug kit is good. No pump needed you move too much water to fast and the engine does not come up to proper temp.
Florian wrote: 5. Fuel line to carb and gas linkage:
Do I need any new parts to hook up the Holley 600cfm carb?

6. Transmission / clutch:

Can I do any maintenance on the transmission and clutch while I´m at it? New transmission fluid? It´s a 3speed manual. The clutch plate was changed by the PO.

7. Setting timing:

Would a timing degree wheel a good idea to set the timing of the engine? If yes which ones are available and which would you recommend me?

8. Gasket sealers/adhesives?

What to use for all the gaskets?

9. Water filler neck and thermostate:

Would it be a good idea to change these out also?
The carb comes with most parts except fuel line.
Clutch plate only if it is worn a lot. The Long style plate has massive clamping force so Ford discs out lasts GM and Chrysler discs. Long style plates put more pressure the higher the RPM goes. Degree wheel for cam only if you want to waste the money. You aren't building a racer and you need more than a wheel you need a mag base and Dial indicator.

I use the Right Stuff to seal everything but head gaskets and header gaskets. There I use copper coat.

The Neck only if yours is corroded and or in danger of breaking. The Thermostat sure use a 180 or 192.
Old Fords Rule
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98 Volvo S70 2.4T Auto
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild

Post by Florian »

A HUGE THANK YOU, Dragon! :thup:

Still have got some questions, though :wink:

Dragon wrote:Use High Volume with the open face pickup.
So this one should be good?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEL-68-S/

Your engine kit does not come with cam bearings?
The stroker kit doesn´t, so I need to get them seperately.

Florian wrote: Do I need thrust bearings also? Like these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-3 ... ear%7c1971
[/quote]


So no thrust bearings, right?

Clutch plate only if it is worn a lot. The Long style plate has massive clamping force so Ford discs out lasts GM and Chrysler discs. Long style plates put more pressure the higher the RPM goes.
I don´t need to change the transmission fluid?



Florian
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild

Post by Dragon »

The pick up is good. The thrust bearing is nice but not needed unless your thrust plate is shot. You don't need to order transmission grease. Our trannies can use any of the heavy lubes with sulphur for shock protection. If you use something for a M5 only your 3 speed will get hammered.http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mtg.aspx
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild

Post by Florian »

Okay! Thanks!

I will go with the Edelbrock Performer heads now. But I don´t know if I should go with or without exhaust crossover. The Weiand Stealth intake that I want to use is a high rise design and could therefore need some heat maybe :hmm: the manifold has the exhaust cross over passage for sure.

So in order to grease the tranny I have to open it up and grease it? There is no real fluid in it or what?

Thanks again!

Florian
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild

Post by Dragon »

No it has really thick oil and us old timers call it grease. In the old days it smelled like grease as most greases contained sulphur as did the Transmission Lube. Many Modern trannies use ATF or 30 weight junk that would let our trannies eat themselves.

For the street use a crossover. The engine will be sluggish without it until it has been hot for a bit. The fuel will drop out of suspension without the crossover heat and make the engine rich then lean then rich and waste Gas. A drag racer doesn't care. From a cold start to burnouts the car is being revved to warm it up . The 1st burnout is about the time the engine hits 160, You roll back and you are at 180, you stage and you are at 210. The light comes down and you launch and the next time you can look at the temperature gauge you are hitting the kill switch and fuel switch as you exit the trap.
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71 F250 with Shell Car 390 NP435 Dana 60 3.73s, PS, PB, 750 EC VS Holley Accel Points Eliminator.
98 Volvo S70 2.4T Auto
71 Service manuals Volumes 1,2,3 and 4 So ask away. :)
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild

Post by Florian »

Dragon wrote:..and the next time you can look at the temperature gauge you..
..have got wet pants :lol:
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild

Post by Florian »

Dragon wrote:No it has really thick oil and us old timers call it grease. In the old days it smelled like grease as most greases contained sulphur as did the Transmission Lube. Many Modern trannies use ATF or 30 weight junk that would let our trannies eat themselves.
Should I better leave it as it is then?
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild

Post by Florian »

Okay I found out about O-Rings on google. So I need to find someone who´s got the Edelbrock heads in stock. Shouldn´t be too difficult though. :wink:
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild

Post by Dragon »

Machined for O-rings does not stop it from being used with a gasket. I find that the O-ring groove has no effect on street compressions when a gasket is used without an o-ring.
Old Fords Rule
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71 F250 with Shell Car 390 NP435 Dana 60 3.73s, PS, PB, 750 EC VS Holley Accel Points Eliminator.
98 Volvo S70 2.4T Auto
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild

Post by Florian »

Ha! I found a head that fits my application and is in stock! :D Don´t know must have overlooked it yesterday evening :wink:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-60359/
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild

Post by Florian »

Hey!

I just started a new thread on the build up of my engine. Just thought it would be better to get it all into one thread.

You can check it out here:

http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 42#p503242

Thanks!

Florian
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