I'm building a 300... 5/19/12 SHE'S ALIVE!!!

[fomocoguy]

Once it's all built I do plan on building a test stand to run it and break in the cam, so that should be interesting. I'll take some video of that.

Why would you build a stand to "run it" when it's going in your truck? Seems like too much work for a one time thing.

Regarding the 352 pistons, I've heard the same thing and I think it's gonna be a great build. Do the EFI manifolds have "heat" for the carb?

Well, I'm not going to be able to install it until spring comes around and it warms up a bit since my garage isn't big enough to pull the truck in. I have the whole wiring harness from when I bought the engine and heard it run, so I don't think it would be a real big deal to do. I want to run it, break in the cam, be sure it doesn't have any leaks or funny noises and have it ready to go before I install it. That way I can minimize my trucks down time.

The efi manifolds do not have anyheat for the carbs, so I will need to address this issue. I have two choices really. One would involve fabbing up some sort of heat riser between the manifolds and the intake (which wouldn't be a real big deal considering I'm a sheetmetal worker by trade). The other would be a heated carb spacer like the old ones that came on FE's. I'm skeptical about the spacer, just because when it's real cold out I'm afraid the fuel mixture will cool down too much on the long trip from the intake opening to the front and rear cylinders and pool up in the runners. I know this is basically how ford did it on the stock manifold (but with exhaust heat under the carb) but I sure would like to make it universally "warm". I still need to put some more thought into it I think.

BTW, thanks for the encouragement! I've already sold all the FE stuff I had collected, so there's no going back now!

[sideoilerfe]

If you could build one that works great that would be awesome. I was over at fordsix reading up on some stuff. I think at one time someone made a 2 2V manifold but I don't recall who. Probably Clifford. It was either the 300 Ford and /or the 225 Mopar slant 6 that had all sorts of intakes. You could give the "fabrication" route a try and see how it works. There's a guy over there at fordsix that basically said that you wouldn't gain any mileage or horse power out of the swap. I'm hoping he's wrong.

[fomocoguy]

If you could build one that works great that would be awesome. I was over at fordsix reading up on some stuff. I think at one time someone made a 2 2V manifold but I don't recall who. Probably Clifford. It was either the 300 Ford and /or the 225 Mopar slant 6 that had all sorts of intakes. You could give the "fabrication" route a try and see how it works. There's a guy over there at fordsix that basically said that you wouldn't gain any mileage or horse power out of the swap. I'm hoping he's wrong.

Yep, clifford still makes a similar manifold. It is actually like their standard model that takes an adapter that you have to buy from them to use a 2 barrel or 4 barrel, so you can buy the manifold and use two 2-barrel adapters with it. It's awfully expensive though, and they claim you have to use their header, so you end up at something like $800 for a manifold and header .

I don't know if my manifold idea will pan out or not, but it would be neat. If not I will probably get an Offenhauser C intake and make a divider to put down in the middle of the carb opening. Then you can turn the carb sideways and have a dual plane intake, which some of the guys over at fordsix say they had good results with. That way you still have a progressive primary-secondary setup. It's supposed to add some torque down low. I would still have to heat it, but it would be less time consuming than building my own intake. I think I'm going to draft some stuff today and see what I can come up with on paper while the baby naps (I'm mister mom today). I just want to be sure to balance things so as not to hurt bottom end.

[fomocoguy]

So today I am also contemplating my cam choice. I have a couple of prospects, so I thought I'd run them by you guys and see what you think. First off, have any of you used the Crane 503941? I found a deal on one. Here are the specs: Lift- .487/.515, Duration @ .050- 216/228, rpm range 2000-5000. Here's a link to full specs: http://cranecams.com/index.php?show=bro ... vl=2&prt=5

Do you think this is a bit aggressive or about right? Remember, 9.5:1cr, C intake, stock valves with mild port and polish, in a 5400lb truck.

I saw a generic (clevite or melling) torque cam on evil-bay with these specs: Lift-.451/.475, Duration @ .050- 204-214, rpm range 1200-4700

Any other suggestions? I want some nut butter to move it but I really want to make some torque between 1500-2500 rpms too since I spend a lot of time there. I need new rockers, so I could do the torque cam with 250 chevy 1.75:1 rockers too. In fact, I'm leaning toward it. With the torque cam I would have the same duration as the crane 901 but the lift would be a bit more than the 941 at .493 int .520 exh. From what I understand about cams short duration with high lift equals TORQUE. Plus the generic cam would save me some money as it includes lifters. What do ya'll think?

[fomocoguy]

Well, I've been doing some more thinking on the intake idea, and I think I'm going to pass on it. With two 2100's feeding it, I'm afraid that at low rpm part throttle situations it will be way overfed. With all barrels opening together it would be like cracking all the barrels open on a 4 barrel carb as soon as you hit the pedal, would it not? I'm thinking it would kill velocity on the low end and hurt torque down there. If they were progressive two barrels it would work, but I don't even know if that exists. Anyways I would hate to put all that time into an intake that doesn't work. I think Offy C or Clifford is the way I'll go.

[ToughOldFord]

Here's a manifold and carb in the for sale section:

http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 11&t=46830

[fomocoguy]

Hey, thanks for the link! I've decided to go with a different style though; that is a dual port intake and I am looking for a single plane Offy C or Clifford intake and at least a 500 cfm carb. Thanks though!

ON A SIDE NOTE, I just paid for a Crane 503901 cam, new in the box for $100 shipped. The cam is selected!

[sideoilerfe]

That's too bad. I always consider a used engine a core regardless of what they say. Lesson learned but it might still be usable as a core for something or someone.

[fomocoguy]

Yeah, I'm still going to use the block I think, since it's got new cam bearings and freeze plugs and it won't need to be cleaned so badly, as long as it can be bored. The amount of gunk on and inside the other engine is crazy and I won't have to worry so much about grit not being cleaned out all the way. It had to be burning oil with those pits in there; that's probably why the guy got rid of it in the first place.

If it's not machinable I can always make an end table out of it.

[papabug71]

If its still at stock bore, cant you have it bored .020 over ? I think the guys around here call it a clean up bore...? Maybe that would get rid of the pits.

I built a 340 for my Duster & it was pitted . It took a .040 over boar to clean it up.

[fomocoguy]

If its still at stock bore, cant you have it bored .020 over ? I think the guys around here call it a clean up bore...? Maybe that would get rid of the pits.

I built a 340 for my Duster & it was pitted . It took a .040 over boar to clean it up.

I'm thinking it's probably going to take .030 to get the one cleaned up. There is one pit in particular that I'm worried about. Heck, if it takes .050 to clean it up it would open a whole new world of piston choices since it would be the standard bore of a 390. I think a dished lw cr car piston would put me right at 9.5:1.

[fomocoguy]

Just thought I'd let you all know the block finally made it to the machine shop today, along with the crank. It's getting the minimum required bore and .010 off the deck. The crank looks pretty good and should be able to get by with just a polish. The boring fella said he thinks .030 will do it for the bore, but we will see. I'm going to go with some stock style Clevite pistons that will bring the compression ratio to about 9.0:1 with the .010 removed. I was going to use the 352 pistons but it's going to be a lot more economical for me to do the Clevites. They should be totally safe up to 4500 rpms, so I am happy with that. I decided that 9.0:1 would be good just to keep any chance of detonation to a minimum. I'll be sure to shoot some pics when I get it back!

[torquemonger]

NAH...steal a fuel tanker!!! then you can build a 1\2 mpg big block,tire shredding,pavement squeeling,rubber burning,tourqued up badass ford!!!! oops sorry got carried away

[fomocoguy]

I thought about it but I've got no where to hide it! I'll use this truck build to pull around the torqued up bad a$$ ford I build next, how's that?

[killakobra]

If its still at stock bore, cant you have it bored .020 over ? I think the guys around here call it a clean up bore...? Maybe that would get rid of the pits.

I built a 340 for my Duster & it was pitted . It took a .040 over boar to clean it up.

I'm thinking it's probably going to take .030 to get the one cleaned up. There is one pit in particular that I'm worried about. Heck, if it takes .050 to clean it up it would open a whole new world of piston choices since it would be the standard bore of a 390. I think a dished lw cr car piston would put me right at 9.5:1.

i thought 390's had a piston slightly smaller than a 300?