I'm building a 300... 5/19/12 SHE'S ALIVE!!!
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Re: I'm building a 300... 12/14/09 I bought an engine!
A friend of mine had 94 or so F350 roolback and put a 300 in it,no rebuild just a stock 300 with 80,000 miles on it, He said that when he was putting it in that everyone was tell him that he wouldnt have enuff power for towing with a rollback, I had a 77 blazer 4x4 in my yard that i wanted gone so i asked if he wanted it, He had cancer and going in for treatment but said if i would drive he would ride with me and we could get it out of my yard. We went to get the blazer and when i was driving there it felt the same as any other 300 i have drove, After we got it loaded i was impressed with the way it pulled because i was thinking with the blazer on its back that it would be all that it do just to get down the road. when we left my house theres a small uphill grade, It was a little slow speeding up but pulled fine. Driving down the road the truck had plenty of power pull small grades on the way. theres a hill on the way to his shop that i will lose 5-6 mph in my dumptruck when im loaded (72,000 lb. 3406 cat. 500 hp ) and i didnt think his rollback would go up with out downshifting but we went up the hill in hi gear and lost about 10 mph and it didnt take long to recover speed on flat ground. I asked about the mileage he was getting and he said he was getting 14-15 mpg if he didnt get on the interstate and have to keep it wound up. I dont know the gear in the rear but it felt like it was a 4.11 and it had a 4 speed w/granny. Im thinking that you will be happy with a 300 in you truck because i got to drive one loaded and if your looking for pulling power with better mileage that i think your making a good choice.
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Re: I'm building a 300... 12/14/09 I bought an engine!
Well, with all the mods I'm doing it should be at about 250hp and 350lb/ft of torque, which would put it at approximately 25 more lb/ft than the 360's factory figures (at less rpm) and a few more ponies. Considering my engine is pretty old (possibly original) it is probably going to be even more of a difference.DuckRyder wrote:I am far from a 300 expert, I'm watching this to see how it turns out.
A random thought:
Will it make more torque than the 360?![]()
My prediction:
The same economy for all practical purposes, possibly slower...
I swayed back and forth on this a few times, but every person that I've came in to contact with that had a 360 and swapped in a 300 has been totally happy with it. One guy over at fordsix has an F250 that he pulled a 390 from and installed a stock 300 and likes it better all around. From what everybody has told me they seem to work real well where it counts in the rpm range. Plus, everyone claims at least a few mpg better.
We will see! It'll be a great learning experiance no matter how it turns out.

Joe
1971 F100 flareside 8ft
1964 Chrysler New Yorker Town and Country wagon
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 cummins
2005 Ford Ranger
1971 F100 flareside 8ft
1964 Chrysler New Yorker Town and Country wagon
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 cummins
2005 Ford Ranger
- sideoilerfe
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Re: I'm building a 300... 12/14/09 I bought an engine!
Should be an interesting build. Keep us posted for sure. 

Side oiler FE, see if you can catch me!!!
1970 F250 4x4 390/4spd
1968 F250 4X2 360/C6/No Rust!
1970 F250 4x4 390/4spd
1968 F250 4X2 360/C6/No Rust!
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Re: I'm building a 300... 12/14/09 I bought an engine!
anyone have any dyno graphs on a "built" 300????
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Re: I'm building a 300... 12/14/09 I bought an engine!
I've done a lot of looking around and I haven't found much of anything. It's definetly tougher to find info on than other engines. I'm looking for a set of pistons (that won't break the bank) right now that will put me into the 9.0:1- 9.5:1 range and I'm having a tough time.JEF199 wrote:anyone have any dyno graphs on a "built" 300????
Joe
1971 F100 flareside 8ft
1964 Chrysler New Yorker Town and Country wagon
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 cummins
2005 Ford Ranger
1971 F100 flareside 8ft
1964 Chrysler New Yorker Town and Country wagon
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 cummins
2005 Ford Ranger
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Re: I'm building a 300... 12/14/09 I bought an engine!
Heres the Power Steering Bracket you'll need:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/65-66-67 ... _500wt_715
they are different than the FE. Dans a bit expensive, but he's got the part. It is more difficult to locate than other brackets. I used the HD exhaust manifold on mine and a larger diameter exhaust pipe. The same used on the F600. I also zero decked the block for increased compression instead of using the 240 head. Spent some coin on the DUI Distributor and a new Edelbrock 500 CFM, I might have chosen a manual choke over the electric. Since I used the HD Exhaust Manifold I lose the heat riser and when its cold the auto choke will occasionally over compensate.
You will be happy with the 300, it is a work horse. I've got mine in a F250 4X4, first haul was a ton of Tigerwood flooring. Had to take a ferry, Deck Officer didn't realize I had a full load as I had a topper on the rig. Decided to put me on the upper deck. So I used the ole granny and creeped right up the relatively steep ramp. The engine didn't even notice the load and I managed not to spill an otherwise squirrelly load.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/65-66-67 ... _500wt_715
they are different than the FE. Dans a bit expensive, but he's got the part. It is more difficult to locate than other brackets. I used the HD exhaust manifold on mine and a larger diameter exhaust pipe. The same used on the F600. I also zero decked the block for increased compression instead of using the 240 head. Spent some coin on the DUI Distributor and a new Edelbrock 500 CFM, I might have chosen a manual choke over the electric. Since I used the HD Exhaust Manifold I lose the heat riser and when its cold the auto choke will occasionally over compensate.
You will be happy with the 300, it is a work horse. I've got mine in a F250 4X4, first haul was a ton of Tigerwood flooring. Had to take a ferry, Deck Officer didn't realize I had a full load as I had a topper on the rig. Decided to put me on the upper deck. So I used the ole granny and creeped right up the relatively steep ramp. The engine didn't even notice the load and I managed not to spill an otherwise squirrelly load.
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Re: I'm building a 300... 12/14/09 I bought an engine!
(See: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... =3&t=39900)7DF250 wrote:Heres the Power Steering Bracket you'll need:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/65-66-67 ... _500wt_715
.
Also I'm kind of a fan of the 300 cuase my 95 has one in it and that thing will get up and go plus I have yet to hook up something to the back that it wouldn't tow.
Last edited by DuckRyder on Mon Dec 21, 2009 1:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Removed offer to sell, please see the related sticky thread.
Reason: Removed offer to sell, please see the related sticky thread.
"Flyin High On Caffine And Copenhagen" R.I.P Chris LeDoux
60 Mercury Comet
65 Ford Econoline
72 Ford F100 on 79 4x4 SWB frame
77 Ford F250 "lowboy" 4x4
09 Harley Xl1200c
60 Mercury Comet
65 Ford Econoline
72 Ford F100 on 79 4x4 SWB frame
77 Ford F250 "lowboy" 4x4
09 Harley Xl1200c
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Re: I'm building a 300... 12/14/09 I bought an engine!
fomocoguy wrote: I've done a lot of looking around and I haven't found much of anything. It's definetly tougher to find info on than other engines. I'm looking for a set of pistons (that won't break the bank) right now that will put me into the 9.0:1- 9.5:1 range and I'm having a tough time.
Have you tried summit racing?? im not sure exactly what your looking for but here is the page you need.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/make ... Asc&page=1
1970 F100 Ranger XLT SWB 302
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1998 Isuzu Amigo "v6 4x4 conversion comin soon"
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Re: I'm building a 300... 12/14/09 I bought an engine!
I have, but thanks for the help. The problem with all the pistons you see there is that they are all stock style direct replacement pistons; even the Keith Blacks show that they are a replacement for a factory piston. This makes them all around 8.4:1 ( 8.7:1 on a fuel injected engine). The best thing I've found so far is a Clevite piston that has a small round dish that puts the cr at a claimed 8.9:1. I may just settle for that and call it a day. I guess I need to go talk to my machinist and see about the cost of having the block milled to bring it up a few points, but I haven't given up just yet.shaggys_bump wrote:fomocoguy wrote: I've done a lot of looking around and I haven't found much of anything. It's definetly tougher to find info on than other engines. I'm looking for a set of pistons (that won't break the bank) right now that will put me into the 9.0:1- 9.5:1 range and I'm having a tough time.
Have you tried summit racing?? im not sure exactly what your looking for but here is the page you need.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/make ... Asc&page=1
Joe
1971 F100 flareside 8ft
1964 Chrysler New Yorker Town and Country wagon
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 cummins
2005 Ford Ranger
1971 F100 flareside 8ft
1964 Chrysler New Yorker Town and Country wagon
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 cummins
2005 Ford Ranger
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Re: I'm building a 300... 12/14/09 I bought an engine!
Call around to piston manufacturers and have some pistons made for your exact application in whatever compression ratio you wish. Diamond Pistons will make anything you want.
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Re: I'm building a 300... 12/14/09 I bought an engine!
I know this is an option, but I'm just trying to avoid spending three or four hundred dollars on a set of pistons. I have to be careful not to blow the budget on this one; we have a new baby and the gal gives me the evil eye every time I mention anything about expensive engine parts. She just doesn't get it...BobbyFord wrote:Call around to piston manufacturers and have some pistons made for your exact application in whatever compression ratio you wish. Diamond Pistons will make anything you want.

Joe
1971 F100 flareside 8ft
1964 Chrysler New Yorker Town and Country wagon
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 cummins
2005 Ford Ranger
1971 F100 flareside 8ft
1964 Chrysler New Yorker Town and Country wagon
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 cummins
2005 Ford Ranger
- fomocoguy
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Re: I'm building a 300... 12/14/09 I bought an engine!
Well, the engine is completely disassembled and the block is ready to go to the machine shop. Hopefully I will get off in time on monday to drop it off. I took the head all apart so I can have them boil it before I clearance the intake valves and do the port and polish. I thought you all might get a kick out of my valve seals. This is how they were; I didn't bust anything taking it apart:

They were in a million pieces everywhere. It looks like it will need new rockers and at least exhaust valves being that they were pretty worn on the tips. One was worn enough that the rocker was hitting the spring retainer, and all the exhaust valves had to have the "lip" ground of the contact edge so I could slide them out without damaging the guides (which were nice and tight, probably from being well oiled
).
Also, just to let you all know I solved my piston problem. I am using 352 pistons and milling ~.050 off the tops, depending on what I get when I cc the head after I've done the clearancing. This will yield a cr of approximately 9.5:1 and have the extra strength of the 352 pistons full skirt. I learned over at fordsix.com that this is a pretty common thing to do.
That's about it for now!

They were in a million pieces everywhere. It looks like it will need new rockers and at least exhaust valves being that they were pretty worn on the tips. One was worn enough that the rocker was hitting the spring retainer, and all the exhaust valves had to have the "lip" ground of the contact edge so I could slide them out without damaging the guides (which were nice and tight, probably from being well oiled

Also, just to let you all know I solved my piston problem. I am using 352 pistons and milling ~.050 off the tops, depending on what I get when I cc the head after I've done the clearancing. This will yield a cr of approximately 9.5:1 and have the extra strength of the 352 pistons full skirt. I learned over at fordsix.com that this is a pretty common thing to do.
That's about it for now!

Joe
1971 F100 flareside 8ft
1964 Chrysler New Yorker Town and Country wagon
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 cummins
2005 Ford Ranger
1971 F100 flareside 8ft
1964 Chrysler New Yorker Town and Country wagon
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 cummins
2005 Ford Ranger
- 1971ford
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Re: I'm building a 300... 1/1/10 ready for machining
Pshhh that's nothing! check out my valve seals 

Anyways.. lookin' good, i can't wait to see this thing go back together and installed! I'm really interested on how this 6 cylinder will do in the crew 4x4


Anyways.. lookin' good, i can't wait to see this thing go back together and installed! I'm really interested on how this 6 cylinder will do in the crew 4x4

-Ryan
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Re: I'm building a 300... 1/1/10 ready for machining
Well, don't get too ancy! At this rate it's going to be spring before I can get it in.1971ford wrote: lookin' good, i can't wait to see this thing go back together and installed! I'm really interested on how this 6 cylinder will do in the crew 4x4

BTW, you got me on the valve seals! Probably more in there since you have two extra cylinders...

Joe
1971 F100 flareside 8ft
1964 Chrysler New Yorker Town and Country wagon
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 cummins
2005 Ford Ranger
1971 F100 flareside 8ft
1964 Chrysler New Yorker Town and Country wagon
2006 Dodge Ram 2500 cummins
2005 Ford Ranger
- sideoilerfe
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Re: I'm building a 300... 1/1/10 ready for machining
Why would you build a stand to "run it" when it's going in your truck? Seems like too much work for a one time thing.fomocoguy wrote: Once it's all built I do plan on building a test stand to run it and break in the cam, so that should be interesting. I'll take some video of that.
Regarding the 352 pistons, I've heard the same thing and I think it's gonna be a great build. Do the EFI manifolds have "heat" for the carb?
Side oiler FE, see if you can catch me!!!
1970 F250 4x4 390/4spd
1968 F250 4X2 360/C6/No Rust!
1970 F250 4x4 390/4spd
1968 F250 4X2 360/C6/No Rust!