Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild

[Dragon]

The dynamic compression changes with strokers the static depends on Head Volume and cylinder volume. Stock heads work with anything as far as fit. Valves would be a little small for a 332. The 3 speed handled 390s so a 332 is okay.

[Dragon]

Cubic inches cost cubic dollars just not in parts Gas and more work. A 302 will get better mileage than even a 332. The limit on 302s is the bore spacing and the deck height.

Stock stroke .030 kit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CMB-08-0041/?rtype=10 A 302 .030 over is a 306. A poorly balanced stroker kit will shake an engine apart.

[Florian]

What does that mean then when a kit, like the one you posted, is not balanced? Do I have to get it to the machinist together with the flywheel to get it balanced or how does it work?

[Florian]

Ans another quick question: With a 332cui stroker kit, is there any machining work involved other than boring 30 over?

[Dragon]

You are lucky if the 2V is 250 cfm. Even a 306 needs 465. Strokers are no harder to tune just proper jets for altitude and mods like headers, intake and cam. Standard mods when those parts are added. The timing usually is not as wild for a stroker. The piston has a dwell time that is longer. This means the piston appears to stand still longer where the air is not being pulled in or pushed out. The air that is inbound will fill the cylinder if the engine is in the cam/intake performance curve to some degree. So the Dwell time causes the piston to slow down at the top more where the firing starts and that means it hits the rod harder. By reducing the timing a bit the spark fires as the rod gets almost over the top and produces less stress. Now at 6000 rpm that does not matter so that is where a lot of mechanical advance comes in.

[Dragon]

A kit that is not balanced need balancing by a shop to fit the parts together. On a 332 there is no extra machine work required the crank and rods will not hit the block. The rest does not change. The pistons are machined (wrist pin hole, deck height) to clear the standard block. Kits are just that bolt me together and go.

Now if the .03 over 302 had a 4 inch stroke to fit it would be a 408 and the machine work would be massive. The bores would have to be relieved at the bottom. The crank throws and counter weights would have to be machined to clear the bottom of the block. The pistons would have little tiny thin skirts. The oil control ring would be just below the wrist pin hole. The rod journals would be reduced with special small crank ends on the rods. The Rods would have to be shorter and the flywheel and balancer would be machined to help make up for the balancing of the engine.

On a kit the crank is normally balanced to the stock flywheel and harmonic balancer. I will look at that kit again.

[Dragon]

That kit is balanced. It is designed for a stock balanced 302 flywheel and Harmonic balancer. Imbalance means it is 28 oz off to fit the external parts. That is like a 428. The engine is balanced (all the parts internally are the same balance) but not balanced to be smooth unless the flywheel is correct. To internally balance a 428 the block would have clearance cut inside or heavy mallory metal added to the crank, Same with the 302. So they add a little bit to the flywheel to make up for the change in the inside.

Full internal balance 302 kit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-B14002030/ There is only one listed for a 302.

Now look at the flywheels for a 302 they are almost all externally balanced 28.2 ozs of compensating imbalance. http://www.summitracing.com/search/make ... d=flywheel

[VirginiaCityFord]

It sounds to me like you've gotten some good input. The two things I would check out is looking for a vacuum hose that is being pinched off by the clutch linkage and the throw out bearing theory. Just an FYI I've seen some of you who have your truck idling at 800 to 900. It should be idling between 600 and 700 if it wont, check your timing and look for a vaccum leak.

[70_F100]

It sounds to me like you've gotten some good input. The two things I would check out is looking for a vacuum hose that is being pinched off by the clutch linkage and the throw out bearing theory. Just an FYI I've seen some of you who have your truck idling at 800 to 900. It should be idling between 600 and 700 if it wont, check your timing and look for a vaccum leak.

I think the camshaft gear, having slipped, was his problem all along...

[VirginiaCityFord]

ah, did I miss that Part LOL

[Dragon]

His cam crank cylinder walls were so ate up it shows you how good Ford designed the engines. A Chebie would have come unglued at the seams. A pontiac would have broken the crank with it that wore out.

[Florian]

Thanks for your explanations Dragon!


Which carb would you recommend me for the 332 stroker?

[Dragon]

The carb for a 332 would be a 600. The headers and cam with different intake increases the VE of the engine so it need more air.

[Florian]

So do I need a 600CFM or more than 600CFM because of the fact that I want to put on headers and the Stealth intake?

Which secondary type do I need? Vacuum, air valve or mechanical? Do I need the Ford kickdown? And which booster type?


With what I know, I found this one for example:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-9905/

[Dragon]

There is a reason the manual chokes got dropped. You don't know when the engine is warm enough for the choke to come off so you waste fuel, a lot of it. On a 54 mile trip up and back I had my choke cable walk out every few miles. I got 7 mpg. I let the truck idle and warm up the next day then wired the choke handle all the way in. I got 10 mpg. Every time you open the choke to soon you will get a backfire if you give the carb too much throttle. If you open it to late you burn gas. The choke opens it over time. So a you get a balance of drivability and mileage.