Ranchero50 wrote:That's what I did with my friends '89 F450, just sectioned in the Dodge rad support, then used the Dodge crossflow rad and little intercooler. Dunbarse never did hook up the intercooler.
I'm stuck playing with the wrong end on my truck, dropped a 10.2 Ford rear in and the Dodge driveline uses larger U joints than the Ford. I ended up cutting the rear joke off the Dodge driveshaft on the lathe and will weld the smaller yoke on. Then it's just rear brakes and carrier bearing mount to be done under it for a bit.
Jamie
I have a 10.25 Sterling rear too(mine's sitting in the garage). You can get bigger yokes for them. Cant remember what size the Dodge is, but here's one for a 1410 Ujoint: http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p1220_1 ... _1992.html
67 F100, 300(Offy intake, Edelbrock 500, 274*/.518" lift cam, heddder, duraspark & Summit CD ign), 4spd, power steering swap, front disc and hydroboost.
08 VW R32
increase diesel fuel rate site: http://www.freewebs.com/nevrenufhp/index.htm
averagef250 wrote:
Hood latches are a real pain. I really like the factory bump latches. Beats the heck out of the 73-79 latch for sure.
That's one of the things I remember about my Dad's '78-You had to pull the inside latch and reach out and bang on the hood to get it to release! I was always surprised there wasn't a dent there.
70F100: 410 Merc with tri-power, close ratio toploader, 4.56 detroit locker 9"
68F100 4x4: 390, 4 spd/NP 205, Rancho 4" urethane susp, 35x12.50 All Terrain T/A's
55F100
01F150 Daily Driver: TP tunes, AF1 intake, elec fans, Magnaflow exh, underdrive pulleys, Centerlines
A 727 with 4.10's and 35" tires is 2600 RPM @ 65 without converter slip factored in. Just something to keep in mind if you installed that engine/trans as is in your ford.
The non-IC motors are pretty good bang for the buck. The pumps fuel harder than the IC ones and the injectors are a little bigger. Kinda negated by the heads all cracking, but they run cracked for a very long time if needed.
I was thinking about that yesterday. Maybe new plan : gather money (won't be for a while), sell the 727 and go straight to nv4500 when it goes in the highboy.
Thats what I had read before picking the truck up, bigger injectors more fuel and possibly a little pepier
The head on this one was just rebuilt. I've read a little about the heads cracking but doesn't seem to be THAT common.
You have some good things going for you with this engine but need so many parts to get what you want that finding a better truck should be on your list of things to do.
On the good it looks like the pump has never been molested so maybe it's lived it's life totally stock. You'll still need the thermostat housing with the upper radiator hose coming out the other way, any of the better intercooler ready turbo's, a 16cm turbo exducer housing, a 3200 spring, intercooler tophat for the intake and the plumbing. I'd also try to find a set of '94 and up motor mounts since the early stuff is pretty weak and transmits vibes easier.
Definitely won't be looking for another truck just for intercooler parts. Buying a nv4500 truck was out of the question when I realized they are way out of my price range.
I have a buddy (Cole Dow, you've heard of him if you're into cummins diesels) that lives close by who builds 6bt's. He said he has all kinds of parts laying around and I'm sure he's got hook ups, so I'm not worried about finding an intercooler ready turbo later down the road, or the CAC tubes, etc.
The engine compartment is ridiculously clean, engine is almost spotless, the interior is in great condition, body is in pretty good condition, the only hitch on it is a wimpy receiver welded to the bumper so it hasn't towed anything heavy at all. Truck must have been taken care of. Previous owner said an older man owned it and drove it into a ditch, just bending the front right fender and breaking a balljoint so he bought it and fixed it. Everything on it works... everything
I didn't buy it just for the cummins right now.... It is going to be my winter daily driver.
Finding a nv4500 equipped cummins truck that is even close to daily driving is upwards of $4.5k. I've been watching craigslist for months.
This truck is perfect for my needs considering the money available.
I do plan on snagging some 94+ mounts before the swap.
Checked out the fuel pin today, to see if the PO had turned it. Indeed he has. So i left it deep side to the front.
It seems to me that's all he did to the thing. Obviously hadn't adjusted the smoke screw as the cap was on there and not screwed with at all. I pulled the cap and it wasn't easy so i'm the first one in there.
Still need to see if he played with the fuel/power screw
And how much can I turn this thing up without worrying about destroying the 727? I read one guy's forum post about turning the cummins way up and then the 727 happened to start slipping within 2 weeks, but who knows if that was related and how hard he drove on it.
If it's going to really for sure do damage to the trans then I won't bother.
Any turning up I do will just be for a week or so for fun. I will be turning the fuel pin to stock position and possibly even turning it down for most MPG's.
Make sure you get a pyrometer also known as a EGT guage before you start turning it up. By turning it up the inside of the engine get hotter and the if pushed will melt the pistons. Install the EGT guage into the exhaust manifold (pre trubo) and not post turbo. I know your over on Cummins Forum so you might have already know this.
Rob
71 F250 4x4, 4BT Cummins Mostly Done...Project Thread http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=65450
(4BT, big block ZF5, 78 NP205, 78 Dana 44 Front axle, 4.10, 265/75/16, power steering, power brakes) 01 Dodge 2500 4x4 Cummins...turned up a little.
I decided to not turn it up any more than it is, mainly because of my lack of a pyrometer. I'll probably wait for this fun stuff after the cummins is in the highboy.
You shouldn't be able to harm the engine with the stock injectors in there.
Don't hold out big hopes of what the turbo on those non-IC dodges is capable of. With a better (smaller) exhaust housing they still don't seem to work very well, they surge and bark a lot without doing much.
A good start would be measuring your timing and adjusting it to where you feel it should be (14-16 is a good start). A better turbo would be a good second move, verifying head bolt torque (especially since you know someone else has monkeyed with it) wouldn't hurt anything either and might save you some headaches when you put more than the stock 10 PSI into it and find out the head was torqued with a HF torque wrench. A 366 spring and removing the throttle stop will wake it up a bunch, probably make more seat of pants difference than anything you do with the fuel at this point.
The converters in those non-lockup dodges don't transfer a whole lot of the engine's useful power to the transmission. The 727's a real simple thing. If it's working right one should take quite a bit of abuse before crapping out. Just make sure the throttle cable is hooked up and adjusted right. If you put power to the tranny with the trans thinking the engine's at light throttle it will slip pretty bad and fry it quickly.
Thanks for the info Dustin I appreciate it. I'll hold off on upgrading the turbo as I will be adding an intercooler when it goes into the highboy or atleast soon after so I'll probably run the stock IC turbo.
I read that bottoming the full power screw on the back of the pump will give you quite an improvement, I still haven't looked to see how much the previous owner tampered with this screw already. I noticed the collar was gone, though.
Dustin, for the throttle stop, do you recommend just pulling the screw or clocking the throttle linkage one notch over and grinding the tabs that hit the metal line and the pump, then swapping return spring and linkage over to each others holes for full affect?
