Its what you have been waiting for......slugging Out the "Poor
Man's 427"
September 29, 2006 at 12:30
PM
Hi everyone,
I know its been a long time since I have posted here but it has
been one thing after another if you know what I mean. I hope
that you guys didn't give up on me! Its been a long time coming
but here we go.
Have a nice child beer and enjoy! |
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We are using Child's & Albert rings of our
project here. These are the oil control rings, compression rings
for this. Just make sure that you follow the manufacturer's
instructions on ring installs. Some have dots on the rings which
means you face them up toward the head. Also make sure your ring
end gap is correct. |
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| Here is
the piston hung on the rod. |
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| Here are
the rods that the pistons are hung on. If you remember, we did
the centers to centers on the rods after we sized the big end
to the crank! |
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| Here we
have our ring filer. This will help keep our ring end gaps
square and true. |
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| Here we
have our feeler gauge for our first compression ring. According to
C&A they want a .005" gap for every inch of bore. But we opted
.004" for every inch of bore. We talked to them about this and
for what we are doing with the engine we should be fine. For the
average Joe, you need to stick to the specs that they give ya.
We are trying to put the squeeze to this engine and get the most
out of it. This will be street/strip driven. If you are using it
for a roundy-round (high RPM's for a long time) then your ring
end gap needs to be .005" or more for it to live. |
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| We
placed the ring in the bore and squared it up to the deck. Remember we trued up the cylinder to the crank. |
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| We
placed the ring in the bore and squared it up to the bore and
deck. |
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| Here we
are using a feeler gauge. We slide it up and down in the bore
and its a little tight... |
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| ...so we're using a ring filer to do the job. After you're done, take a
fine file and clean up the ends, meaning the top/bottom of the
ring...not the sides of the ring. Cut away from the rings so
you don't chip the moly off. |
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| Repeat
the steps above and check the clearance again. Do this until you
achieve the right clearance. We did the same on the 2nd ring. |
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| This
what we used on the oil control rings. |
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|
Here we are using a ring expander to put
the rings on the pistons. You expand it just enough to put the ring
on the piston. If you expand it too much then you can hurt the
ring and have a time bomb on your hands!!!! |
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Once you have the rings on, make sure you offset the gaps. If you don't you might lose
compression and consume oil. |
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| Here we
are lubing up all the parts and getting ready to put the slugs
in the hole. |
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| Here we
are trying out some total seal lube to see how it works. Good
old oil will work too. You don't need much to do the job. DO NOT
SOAK THE PISTONS IN A BUCKET OF OIL!!!!! Like I said, a good
light coat is all you need to do the job. Do the same to
the bores as well. |
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| Here we
put on the boots, so we don't take a chance of hurting the
cylinder walls. |
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| Next we
carefully slide the piston into the hole. We get the oil
control ring close to the deck, using the ring compressor to
slide it on in. Make sure that you use a little oil on the ring
compressor as well. |
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Use a little tap method to get it in. You
shouldn't have to force it in. If so then you need to pull it
back out and try again. |
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Slide it
on the crank, pull your boots off and lube up the cap before
install. Put your nuts on and torque to spec...45 foot-pounds for
us. If you remember, we're not using ARP's.) |
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WOW, what a beautiful thing. Some might
think its a pile but I don't!
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In
the next issue I will show how to install the roller lifters and
how to port out a set of heads for the engine. Until next
time...
If you have any questions please call me @ 541-331-1484 or email me
kwadams@charter.net. |
