Intermittent No Start/Power

[Russell J]

This issue just recently started happening... 1972 F100

I will go to start the truck and there will be a very loud click ONLY. After that, there is no power to the ignition as in, when it happens and I turn the key back and then back again to try to start it again, there is no power to the gauges or anything...not even another click. The only way I've found to fix it is to disconnect the positive battery cable, wait a few seconds, reconnect it and try it again. Sometimes it starts, other times it doesn't.


Would the starter relay/solenoid be the cause of this?

Thanks!

[basketcase0302]

"Russell J"]This issue just recently started happening... 1972 F100

I will go to start the truck and there will be a very loud click ONLY. After that, there is no power to the ignition as in, when it happens and I turn the key back and then back again to try to start it again, there is no power to the gauges or anything...not even another click. The only way I've found to fix it is to disconnect the positive battery cable, wait a few seconds, reconnect it and try it again. Sometimes it starts, other times it doesn't.


Would the starter relay/solenoid be the cause of this?

Thanks!

Yes the solenoid could be at fault causing this, (and they are a know part to keep a spare on board for as they do fail with age).
But also make 100% positive the solenoid is mounted solid to the inner fender, (not loose at all bolts tightened not stripped holes) as the solenoid has to be grounded to the inner fender to engage the starter.

[Russell J]

I will surely consider replacing the starter relay but if that is failing would it really cause all power in the truck to go out? I mean, even the interior cab light goes out after the CLICK. That light should illuminate regardless of the relay, shouldn't it?

[markguiver]

It may also be that the ignition switch is worn out or the wiring has a break or short in it. Finding these gremlins can be frustrating, to say the least. May need some quality, under dash time.
Mark.

[Russell J]

Thanks, I will surely consider the ignition switch, however an ignition switch failure would not cut power to the entire truck?

[sargentrs]

Check the brown wire from the alternator at the solenoid. I had a bad wire on the ring terminal that did the same thing. Didn't know it until I changed the solenoid for the 2nd time and the wire pulled out. Crimped on a new ring and cranked up using the old solenoid.

[Nitekruizer]

I would still go back and check those battery cable clamps very carefully. I've had it happen where it will make contact at first and then immediately break contact. The clamps look clean and seem tight, but they are not making contact with enough of the post. They are tapered and only a very small amount is making contact. It burns away as soon as I hit the key.

[Russell J]

SOLVED! And the winner IS..........


Nitekruizer!!

I was shocked to find that there would be power to the truck, but the minute you bump the key to start it, EVERYTHING dies. I took a test light and got good connections in the battery clamp and to the ignition relay, but then when I try to start it and get the CLICK, the test light would show no power to the clamps or relay.

Cleaning up the clamps and terminal fixed the issue! It was just wierd that the connection would be completely lost after trying to start the truck.

[Ohiotinkerer]

After you clean them up put a little dilectric grease on the terminals and the inside of the clamps - had the same issue with mine even after I cleaned everything after about a month and once I did that haven't had an issue since.....and that was 6 months ago..........

[markguiver]

glad to hear it was an easy fix .
Mark.

[Russell J]

Thank you, it was! It seems to make her start up a lot easier too!