automatic oil leakage C6

[johnny55]

just a lot of trouble with my pickup. Now automatic oil drops from my gear arm on my C6 automatic box that sits here. what's wrong now? how should i fix this? how do I. What do I need to order to get this done? got a lot of trouble now so i'm getting tired of everything now. That's where the arrow points as it comes out automatic oil and it's pretty much coming out in a day. does not feel good at all

[DuckRyder]

There are 2 seals in that area.

There is a standard metal/rubber lip seal pressed into the transmission case behind the selector and there is an o ring (there may be 2 I don’t remember for sure) that seals the kick down shaft. The o-ring leaking would allow the fluid out near the nut on the end.

There is also a band adjustment nut which has a rubber seal bonded to the back of it slightly forward of this that can allow trans fluid to blow back on the selector shaft if it is leaking.

Google image search “C6 Selector Shaft leak” and “C6 intermediate band adjustment nut” should get some pictures.

[johnny55]

duckryder can i change the standard metal / rubber lip seal from the outside if I'm underneath the pickup and screws the bolt that holds the selector arm and removes these? do you know what that part is so I can search for it. find nothing ??
sorry for my bad translation but am not so good at writing in english. hope you understand how I mean
As I see it when I'm under the pickup, it just seems to be from the shift arm that it comes out behind. like the arrow on my photo. I can screw it off ?? Is there an O ring there? or what is called.

[johnny55]

are these those i will have ??
Shifter Control Linkage / Kickdown Lever Reseal Kit---Fits All C6 Transmissions

[DuckRyder]

That looks like it.

You will have to drop the pan and valve body to get the selector out.( At least I’m 95% certain you do)

http://www.bulkpart.com/2/category/C-6seals.html

http://www.bulkpart.com/2/category/C-6gasket.html

Looks like the official names are:

36349 O-Ring, C6 Throttle shaft

36072 Seal, Linkage, C-6 / C3 / C4 / A4LD / AOD / E4OD

[johnny55]

thanks for the help duckryder. I have now ordered double of these. 36349 and 36072 so now, just wait. Thank you also for the link where I could order them. I wonder if I can not try to change the seal rubber from the outside. If you find a link that shows how to do, please feel free to send it to me. I am a beginner with a pickup but want to learn.
Feels tough to let down the entire automatic oil plate as well as change all automatic oil and gasket.

[sargentrs]

I found some photos and a video that may give you an idea of what you'll be trying to do. I've read conflicting articles about whether or not it can be done without removing the valve body but I can see where it would be a lot easier and less trouble to do so. In these photos, I've circled the nut you need to remove, both with the valve body in place and with it removed. The biggest concern is that once you remove the shaft, you will have multiple pieces to catch and then try to get them all re-installed with hardly any room to work. The most critical being the parking pawl linkage rod which is what makes sure your transmission locks firmly in park. I'm also adding a link to a video I found that shows some of what it takes. It's actually for a C4 but the process is pretty much the same. https://youtu.be/YUQL-UtYb8c Get ready for a big mess of transmission fluid!

[MadJoe]

thanks for the help duckryder. I have now ordered double of these. 36349 and 36072 so now, just wait. Thank you also for the link where I could order them. I wonder if I can not try to change the seal rubber from the outside. If you find a link that shows how to do, please feel free to send it to me. I am a beginner with a pickup but want to learn.
Feels tough to let down the entire automatic oil plate as well as change all automatic oil and gasket.

Johnny, I just changed the fluid and filter in my C6 this weekend for the first time ever and it was very easy. Don't be afraid! I was nervous at first, but because I had no forward gears I was convinced I was going to have to rebuild anyway, so I just dove in and it turned out very easy! Just be ready for the "rain" when removing the pan if you don't have a way to siphon the fluid out through the dip stick tube. I didn't, so I removed all but 5 or 6 of the front-most bolts first (not hard since mine were mostly only hand tight!), then loosened the remaining bolts and pried the back side of the pan down a little to control the flow to that end. It helps if you jack the front end a little, too, obviously. Once you have the pan off make sure to clean it out (there should be some "silt" (a grey, grease-like sludge) in the bottom, this is normal as long as it isn't excessive) and clean up the pan edges where the gasket goes using a plastic scraper, or some fine grit sandpaper (I used 220 grit). Might as well change the filter while you're there. If it's clean, great, but be concerned if you find metal bits in it (I did, but I know my transmission is dying so I wasn't surprised, I'm just milking as many miles and months out of it I can until the inevitable rebuild).

You'll drain at least 3 quarts of fluid (this will not drain the entire transmission, thankfully), so before starting it up, after you've got it all back together, put 3 quarts of Type F transmission fluid in it, then warm it up and check the level while idling in neutral on a level surface. Mine required another quart, yours may or may not.

****MAKE SURE TO ONLY USE TYPE F TRANSMISSION OIL!**** Do not use any that claims to be universal, Mercon 5 even though it says for Fords, or anything that doesn't specifically say "Type F" on the bottle. I probably don't need to tell you this, but somewhere someone will appreciate this warning (and it may just save a C6 from the junkyard, too!).

When reinstalling the pan, the cork gasket should hold the bolts in place allowing you to put the pan up with all bolts ready to be threaded and the gasket held in place by the bolts so you won't need to use any RTV or other gunk trying to hold it in place. It was one of the easiest repairs I've done on my truck so far, so I'm sure you will be okay. The only thing that was expensive was the transmission fluid.

While in there I was surprised at how easy the valve body looked to remove, so I think that part will be easier than you imagine as well.

Best of luck! And I hope after this you can find enjoyment from your Bump again!

Joe

[johnny55]

Hi Joe. sorry that I have not answered you because I have not been inside the page for very long. Here in Sweden it is winter and no work with the car. I have no garage so it will be in the spring that I can work with the car. Now it starts to get a little warmer and no snow as soon as it gets to work with the pickup. giant grateful for your explanation of the work so now I have a little to think about and what to think about. thanks. Johnny