Rivets for Vent Window gasket

[Bullitt74]

Just in the process of replacing my vent window gaskets, where the kit was purchased from Dennis Carpenter. So far, following the instructions and fairly straightforward.

However, there are new rivets to install with the kit, which appear to be small tubular rivets and of course they only supply enough to do the job with no errors...

Does anyone have a process on how to install these rivets effectively, without error, and tightly?

I was thinking of using my center-punch to flare out the one side, along with some solid steel backing on the opposite side to keep it tight. If anyone else has a more 'riveting' method, please let me know!

[vossy]

What you're describing is, basically how I did it.. Found a piece of steel that fit into the channel, and held it in place with a few clamps, and did my best to flare out the rivets with a center punch... It wasn't easy or very effective, and it took me 8 of them on one side to do it, made 3 mistakes.. Need to find 8-10 more for the other side, somewhere.. It seems like there should be a better way to attach those for the aftermarket install.. I was thinking of just clamping it with that nasty weathers stripping glue for the other side, and letting it set over night, but haven't pulled the trigger on that, yet.

[Bullitt74]

Got the rivets in on the passenger side, but not happy with the result. They are a bit loose despite my best edforts. Thinking of glueing down the drivers side...

[vossy]

Yeah, it sucks.. I'm surprised there's not someone with some good advice on how to do this right..

I asked the guy at my local shop, and he's pretty knowledgable, and admitted, that it's damn near impossible with those rivets to get those cinched down, adequately..

I wonder how they even did it at the factory, maybe with a hyrdaulic press with some tooling to hold the other side... It's surprising because so many of the other clips that hold on the trim and chrome seemed to be designed for speed of install..

I also wonder why DC doesn't ship them with a rivet with a little longer tang, so you could get some purchase on it... I did find that I got one to hold pretty well, by just pinching it with some pliers and folding it over... If the rivets were a little longer that would work every time, but there's just not enough meat on their for that to work with consistency...

[Bullitt74]

Thanks for the support. I bought mine from Dennis Carpenter, so I will post a review for sure.

Do you think the loose rivets will make a difference with leaks and / or wind noise?

I’m going to glue down the drivers side. For the side already done, I have a 3cc syringe with an 18 gauge blunt needle that I’m going to try and “inject” 3M weatherstrip adhesive, and hold it down with masking tape overnight.

SargeantRS commented on using “pull-thru” rivets, but I can’t find these anywhere except specialty shops online.

[Bullitt74]

Ok vossy,





This seemed to work well. The 18ga needle was small enough to get in that space, and you can get enough torque behind the 3cc syringe to get the adhesive out. I laid 2 beads down where the gap was more noticeable at the bottom. Hopefully it sets up and holds!

[Bullitt74]

Holds up, turned out well

[vossy]

Is it working well, after removing the mask? It is securely attached? Did you use any rivets, or just went with only adhesive?

Nice work... Where do you get a syringe? I don't have diabetes or know anyone who does... Are those like an OTC thing at the pharmacy?


Edit: Also, did you tap the threads for shoulder seat belts yourself? Or were they factory tapped? I have the holes, in my pillar there, but they are not tapped, and I really want shoulder straps... Which brand of seat belt did you go with? Any seat clearance issues? Did you use the same holes as the lap belt used for the bottom of the should strap winder assembly?

[Bullitt74]

Oh yeah - vent gasket is super snug after this experiment. I detailed everything in my build thread - just follow the link on my signature.

I used the seat belt kit from LMC. It requires you to drill the factory holes out to 3/8", and installs with washers and nut (so no need to tap with threads). There are some clearance issues with using this kit, so I had to move the ratchet/reel mechanism an inch forward from the factory hole location. I made a 1"x3" plate to attach to the underside. Not ideal, but it should be effective.

Regarding the syringe, I'm a hospital pharmacist so I knew what was needed for that job. If you show this thread (or detailed better in my build thread) to a community / retail pharmacist, they will just shake their head and proceed to provide you what you need.

[F250Chris]

Hi,

I‘m trying to replace my vent window seals, but I don’t get it disassembled at all. How can I separate the black painted part, where the seal is riveted to from the rest? I can’t see any fastener holding it in place.
Thanks for your help!!!

[68fe360]

Best way to handle the rivets is, to purchase an anvil & bucking bar designed for an air hammer. I believe Eastwood sells a set, but they are available at most rivet supply companies. A cheap HF basic air hammer will work just fine on these rivets. If you ever plan on doing solid rivets, then get a long nose air hammer.

[68fe360]

Hi,

I‘m trying to replace my vent window seals, but I don’t get it disassembled at all. How can I separate the black painted part, where the seal is riveted to from the rest? I can’t see any fastener holding it in place.
Thanks for your help!!!

You need to remove the door panel. Then basicly follow down the door. Through the door opening you will see the window track on the side closest to the vent window. Towards the bottom of the track is a single bolt/screw that secures the vent window frame & main window track combo to the interior door shell. Remove this bolt/screw. Then after removing the 3 or 4 screws on the door edge that faces the front of the truck, you can work the whole assembly into the shell & fish it out.