Converting a 66 2wd to 79 fwd

[66 f100 4x4]

I'm trying to decide to go with the 2wd frame or the 4wd. The 79 is 4 inches longer at 133. I'm leaning towards it because it has everything that bolts to the drive train, I would then have to shorten the frame and adapt cab mounts for it. Obviously many more little things, but just trying to get my idea out there. If I were to keep the 2wd frame does anyone know if the front coil buckets would line up with the dana 44 from the 79? What I would really like to know is are there any reasons that anyone knows to use either the 2wd or 4wd frame? I have removed and recycled the body from the 79. Its down to just drive train. It was a complete and drivable 79 f150 4x4. The 66 f100 is stock 2wd and has no motor or trans, just the rear axle. I really like the 66 ford truck body, always have. The 60's four wheel drive components do not meet my desires for the restoration of a truck that will be used on and off road, so buying a stock 66 four wheel drive won't do the trick. I'm new with forums and will be happy to hear all the information that can be offered. Thank you.

[caseyj10]

http://fordification.com/forum/viewtopi ... =9&t=72771 Ill be converting from 2wd to 4x4 in a few weeks and will let you know how it goes. I believe the 66 frame width is the same as the 69 so I will be able to tell you if you could use the stock buckets.

[trickf100]

I converted a 72 f250 to 4x4 using a 78 f150 4x4 parts truck. I retained the 4x2 f250 frame and simply cut all of the 4x2 stuff out of f250 and welded all of the 4x4 crossmembers and mounts in to the 4x2 frame. It was a lot of work and you have to have access to a welder but the frame on the parts truck was rusted beyond use and the 4x2 frame was perfect. The other option I considered was clipping the 4x2 frame with the 4x4 front stub. If you are changing the wheelbase anyways that would probably be the ideal way to go. Use the 66 rear frame section and weld it to the 79 4x4 front section at the length that you want. Then your bed mounts will line up.

[Gittinwidit]

I've got a few of these conversions under my belt now. The front frame welded to rear is the best (mentioned above) but if you want to use the 79 frame, here's the issues I ran across with fixes I used. I'll compare slicks and bumps.

79 4x4 frame conversion for 67-72 (bump) =
1. Cut off 2" of rear frame so bed will fit.
2. Along with 1 of the following to mount bed.
A. Weld tabs inward on the frame for bed mount locations, drill and mount.
B. Use some kind of cross material such as 2X2 square or something similar to the stuff road signs are mounted to along with lift blocks for the cab to flush out body line. Mount cross material to the frame and to the bed.
Note: rear bed bolts I have yet to master but some creativeness will be necessary.
3. Move shock hangers forward 2" along with 1 of the following to adjust rear axle for 2" of less wheelbase.
A. Rear shackel flip and reweld spring perches to correct pinion angle. Shorten drive shaft.
Note: Shackel Flip hangers will need new holes for desired springs (every set of springs are different) . The shackels need to be around 5-7 degrees max.
B. Scoot rear axle hangers forward 2". Shorten drive shaft.
4. Rear gas tank can be aquired by either modifying the bed or turn the gas tank sideways so that the gas nozzle is to the rear. You'll need to remount cross member in front of tank and new gas tank straps made. I've mounted the nozzle inside the bed once but you had to have long arms to fill the gas with a tailgate down. I've also cut out gas nozzle pieces from bed sides from 73-76 beds and mounted the gas nozzle to side of bed. I had to notch out the bed for good gas angle to the tank (with no lift). I'd imagine 3" of body lift you may be able to make it work???
Note: bed fenderwells may contact tires due to less arch so depending on lift / tires you may need to break out a trimming tool for desired lift/tire.
Besides that the cab forward is all bolt-on.

79 4x4 frame conversion for 65-66 (slick) =
Similar to bump except you've got to make up 4".
1. Cut off 4" of bed and remount rear cross member. Along with 1 of the above to mount bed.
2. You have no option but to scoot rear shackles forward either 4" or 2" with shackel flip. Reweld spring perches to correct pinion angle. And move shock hangers 4" forward.
3. Rear gas tank options are same but keep in mind you'll need to scoot the cross member in front of the gas tank forward as well since the very rear had to move.
Note: Bed fenderwells may contact tires due to less arch so depending on lift / tires you may need to break out a trimming tool for desired lift/tire.
Note: Shackel Flip hangers will need new holes for desired springs (every set of springs are different) . The shackels need to be around 5-7 degrees max.
Note: Rear frame will need notching for shocks will be out of the frame bend area.

Besides that the cab forward is all bolt-on.


79 4x4 frame conversion for 61-64 (slick) =
1. Rear cab hangers are very different and cab is NOT a bolt on so you'd need to make your own...

Note: Highboy F250 frames are alot easier for this mod since bed bolts on (with new holes) since frame is same width and all 79 stuff is bolt on to upgrade the front axle. Still have to scoot axle forward. And power steering mods are needed if power steering is desired but that's a whole other can of worms...


I'm sure there's more items I missed...

[destro360]

sorry to thread jack here but this is relevant to my situation. i am swapping a 72 cab onto a 79 but my 72 bed is complete junk. i am curious if anyone knows if the 79 bed will fit with the 72 cab? (temporarily) until i can find another decent bump side bed. right now the truck is mostly a work horse so having a bed is all that matters right now. thanks!

[trickf100]

I don't know for certain with a 66 cab but the later 67-72 cabs will work with the newer bed bolted up. I would assume that the cab dimensions are close from slick to bump so I guess you shouldn't have any problems.