Instrument pannel wiring diferences 71-72.

[rjewkes]

Ok guys i bought an entire replacement pannel. it is dated november 71 is it actualy a 72 pannel at this point? It has good circuit board.

I'm just trying to find a reason for my electrical problem. Hoping it aint the dash wiring. I think it is part of the voltage regulator and or alternator but I will just replace the whole charging system batt and all.

[FORDification]

The model years typically run from August thru July, so a part labeled November '71 would actually be for an early '71 model. The '71-'72 panels are the same, it's the '70 panel that's a one-year-only item.

However, I think you're going about this all wrong. If your truck develops a squeak, you don't just start replacing everything that might cause a squeak....that is, you don't just start randomly replacing parts hoping the problem will go away. You might get lucky, but in the meantime you'll be spending a lot of time and money replacing parts that are perfectly good. When a vehicle starts having problems, you need to pay attention to the symptoms and troubleshoot to find the cause. Maybe if you tell us what the symptoms are we can walk you through the diagnosis in a logical order.

[rjewkes]

Ok, Every once in a while it would act like it had no juice at the battery at start up. If i let it sit a minute or two it would go a head get stronger and kick.

Autozone said to check all my connections. I did one was loose and i tightened it up.

The battery tests ok after being charged but They never do a while running at 2000 rpm test anymore.

Then after i Had tightened the loose connection it went away. Now just the other day it did the whole battery thing after running down the highway for about 20 minutes. And the temp guage was in its usual place.

I got out and checked all of the connections and not a one was loose. no ground outs i can see. It kept getting lower and lower when trying to restart it Voltage that is and then after 10 minutes the first time it restarted sounded fine and went 1/8 of a mile before doing it again.

Wriggling the key has no effect on it. On the second instance it had to sit 20 minutes and then all was fine after i bumped the idle up a bit.

The volt reg is suspect in my mind due in part to it being extremely Coroded. Also the battery is suspect due to it having a buddy of mine throwing tap watter in it to help me out. "bro your water level was lower than mine!" "So I filled it back up."


And since it has been this way for awhile i assume bad alternator better safe than sorry.
BTW the truck is at work in joplin. they are being cool about it. Helps when you worked for the owner and his wife for about three years.

[fordman]

i suspect that my sarter is hot when that has happened to me. just from the heat of the engine and exhaust.

[rjewkes]

Yeah i've heard of that problem. But that wouldn't cuase it to kill out going down the road. Would It? Unless it gets hot and does the cute little kick out and over thing.


It was poping when i put my foot into it. Could it drowned itself good enough to act like hydrostatic lock?

[flyboy2610]

I would replace the voltage regulator.
You may also want to replace the ignition switch. They have a built in circuit breaker, and if it trips it could cause loss of voltage. When it cools off it resets itself. Then you can go again.

[fordman]

no your right a hot starter wouldn't kill the engine that circutis dead once the truck has been started and you let go of the switch. flyboy probably hit it on the head when he said ignition switch. try that.

[rjewkes]

Thanks guys. I was thinking a stuck starter would cuase dragging but i'd notice that before it had the real bad problem.

but the volt reg and switch and all sounds good places to start. Bad battery what with all the boil over.

Where do i get the cylinder itself? That thung acts funny.

Good news good news little fat buddys! Gooogoochoot!(what roscoe used to say)!

The problem was the idle mixture was too low. And the popping was, beleive it or not the cap was slightly off center. Still my battery boils over. So I think i shall change my Voltage reg. And i Shall Call Him "Mini Zack!"

Well i finally got around to changing out the Volt Reg and the Condenser attached to it(radio noise supression)Ive had both for about two weeks !

Put them in and it started right up every time, stopped three places and went inside for an hour each time. And Autozone said volt regs never go bad(:eek:). But buy there own test procedures(the one wells came up with) The Setpiont and the Lamp Failed. If any body knows how to rebuild them they can have this old one just cover shipping