Windshield Washer Help

[granitestate68]

Hi Folks,

I finally have all the necessary parts to install a windshield washer setup on my 68. I have a few questions though.

Just a little history so the picture is a little clearer.

Installed a delay wiper setup from a 78 Bronco.
Installed a resevoir from a 71 F? with the pump in the res. Caveat was made that the pump may or may not work.
New ( used ) complete wiring harness installed.

Needed a new pigtail for the 71 resevoir ( not the same plug as the 68 )
Received the new plug today ( thanks Heavenlyfire ). The wires on the harness for the washer pump 68 were Black and Green with black stripe. The 71 plug has Black and Yellow wires.

I connected the black wires together and the yellow to the green with black stripe. Anybody know if this is okay?

The reason I'm asking is that I have tried every possible position on the wiper switch to get the pump to work but nothing. I've pushed in, pulled out, turned all the way both ways and nil . How is the switch supposed to work for washing any way.

This could be all due to a bad pump as stated when I bought it but thought I'd ask a few questions before dumping more money into something I might not need.

Any help would be appreciated and sorry for the long post. Is it as clear as mud now?

Thanks,
Lee

[heep70]

Hook 12v direct to the pump. It should spin.

Here is how my wires matched up.

Truck harness to wiper switch/relay pigtail

orangle/white - black/green dash

orange/yellow &
brown/green - EMPTY

lime - black/white

blue - blue

black - black

white - white

red - red

My washer has a lime and a black wire coming from it. I don't think the black comes back to the plug, but I am not for sure. The relay is a 1974 model and it cam out of a 1976 Bronco.

Earlier post on delay wiper switch wiring. http://fordification.com/forum/viewtopi ... elay+wiper

[bluef250]

The wiper switch should work by pulling on it. Check the two wires coming to the pump. One is ground, the other power. Try continuity (using resistance setting on VOM) between both and the - post on battery. One should be open and the other closed. Then, using the open one, activate the pump switch by pulling and you should have 12 volts (using volt setting on VOM or a test bulb). If ground and power wires are good, then pump is bad. Test pump by connecting to a 12 volt battery. If no power and ground is good, then switch may be bad or a you problem btn switch and connection to the pump. The ground should be the electrical ground for the running lights. Check that it is clean. Good luck.

[granitestate68]

Thanks guys,

I'll check the wiring tomorrow morning. Appreciate the help, you guys are awesome.

Lee

P.S. Greg, I disconnected the battery

[heep70]

PS Greg, I disconnected the battery

The one in the Ford, right?

I was going to nail you, but I figure you probably learned a lesson.

[granitestate68]

Update:

The source of the problem was when I installed the new delay switch I put the knob too far onto the post. This switch is activated when you push in on the knob. With it on too far it would not allow the connection to be made. When I push it the washer pump makes a very loud squeal and nothing is being pumped soooooo I guess it's time to order a new pump.

I really appreciate all the helpful info you guys provided last night that was great. Anybody ever deal with LMC for a washer pump? Or would someplace else be better?

Thanks again,
Lee

[heep70]

NAPA.

[68F250]

When I push it the washer pump makes a very loud squeal and nothing is being pumped soooooo I guess it's time to order a new pump.

Sounds like the pump is ok, it can squeal if it loses its prime. Maybe check and see why it's not getting any fluid.

[granitestate68]

68F250 You're the nuts.
That was it. As soon as I got the fluid up through the first hose it started working properly. Still get a squeal now and then but it's pumping.

Another small project done.

Thanks again everybody.

Lee