I got the 2500 converter,I didn't compare it to the original c6 one like you did hotrodfeguy.
hotrodfeguy wrote:Did the machinest cut the guides for positive seals? Cause thats all I did with my heads. When they cut down the guide it lowers the top edge of the seal hight. Thats the place it hits. If so he may just get by with just a spring change. I cheated there too used springs good for .580 lift. Just saying he may be able to do this without pulling the engine aprt again.
BobbyFord wrote:I hope the guides were cut to accomodate .600 lift.
The guides are under the springs, right? Well that's what I'm thinking I want to understand, and get this right. Can you cut the guides and shim the springs if needed?
DuckRyder wrote:OH, and when you get the heads off, clean the top of a piston and give us the numbers (and perhaps a picture) maybe we can figure out what it is and where your compression is at.
I sure will, and I would like to get that cam in. It might take some more time than I hope for, but it's what I want.
DuckRyder wrote:But obviously you are going to need to check for a multitude of things with this cam, the springs must be appropriate, the heads ported and set up to accommodate the lift, PISTON to VALVE CLEARANCE checked...
I just sent a question to Tuff Dawg Engines (enginebuilders1) on ebay, that's where I got the heads. I asked if the springs and valves would work for this cam..
It might sound dumb that I want more out of my motor when it's running fine, or does it?
Dragon wrote:I have turned 2 different FEs into the low 9s and mid 8s with less the .600 lift.
I have to give it to you Dragon, that's what I'm looking for.
Those who do not learn the lessons of history, are doomed to repeat it.