Truck meets POR-15

[bm52]

We are about to paint the frame, drive shafts, suspension, fenderwells, firewall and the underside of the cab. After reading the pro's/con's of all the products out there we plan to use POR-15. We are not doing a frame-off restore, so a number of the parts will be painted in-place.

Before we dive off into this phase of the project, I wanted to see if anyone had any advise or suggestions? Also for those who have used POR-15, how's it holding up?

[cobraF100]

I haven't used POR-15 on the frame Yet but I did my own little test to see how it holds up..

POR-20 (High Temp)
I painted it on a Bracket,then put it in the oven at 350 for an hour. well I took it out and took a Hammer to it and it held up really good...

[OldBlue67]

If you have to paint over the seems of something (or just anywhere two things are touching) make sure its not something you need to remove....ever Its some burly stuff. I did the underside of my bed a bit ago, but haven't had it on yet to see how it holds up.

oh and for the love of god don't get it on your skin. If you do, it'll start to come off in about a week or two, but the rash sticks around a lot longer ...k'hem, not like I know or anything

[hardtailjohn]

John H.

[FORDification]

I'd have to advise against using POR-15 on the driveshafts, since it'll more than likely affect the driveshaft's balance. I'd just sand down and then use a rattle-can paint on those.

I've heard nothing but good things about POR-15...as long as you follow their preparation instructions to the letter! Do not cut any corners in this area, or it won't last. Make sure any grease, oil, rust flakes, etc. has been removed first. I'm using POR-15 in quite a few different areas on my truck too, but of course mine hasn't hit the streets yet, so it remains to be seen how it holds up. But I took extra pains to make sure I followed their prep procedures, so I'm thinking I'll be just fine. Since you can't paint the POR-15 after it dries, I'm waiting until it's very tacky, and then hitting it with several coats of Krylon semi-flat black.

[bm52]

Are there any other areas, besides the drive shafts, that I shouldn't use the POR-15 on? Once it's applied, is it thick enough to possibly affect how some parts may go back together?

[OldBlue67]

Are there any other areas, besides the drive shafts, that I shouldn't use the POR-15 on? Once it's applied, is it thick enough to possibly affect how some parts may go back together?

Its actually a lot thinner than I expected it to be, much more fluid even kinda runny. I don't think that it would be thick enough to interfere with things going back together, even with a couple of coats.

[FORDification]

I would say about the only places you shouldn't apply POR-15 are any machined contact surfaces and anything rotating/balanced. And unless you're putting 45 coats of the stuff on, it shouldn't affect reassembly of anything either....as OldBlue67 mentioned, it's not really that thick.

One thing I'll pass on to you: I've been applying my POR-15 with a brush. It comes out of the can just thick enough to leave brush strokes, that won't smooth out. If you don't want brush strokes and would prefer it smooth, just thin it out a little bit as recommended in the instructions. Otherwise you can just dab it with a sponge after applying it, which will give it a slight texture...which in my opinion looks MUCH better than brushstrokes.

[bm52]

Thanks for all the advise on using this stuff. I had thought about using a paint sponge to apply it in some areas, so I guess we'll experiment around with it a little. We will probably take the leaf springs apart and paint them, will POR-15 hold up on something that will be flexing like this?

[michaelbrainard]

I used POR15 on the inner fenders ( inside and out ) the inside of the front fenders and some other places. The inner fenders were completly sand blasted and I put the POR right over top of that rough surface. I used a $.49 FOAM paint brush to apply it..when dry I put on another coat. The foam brush works much better than a bristle brush as you can control the "flow" easier and get a much more consistant application. I tried the bristle brush and had runs and sags all over the place. Try the foam brushes! When dry ( I waited several days ) I scuffed the POR with a scotchbright pad and sprayed 2 coats of Epoxy primer ( to all parts - POR or not ) then on the inner fenders I sprayed 2 coats of gloss black (battery support also..and all inside components) I did a test to see how well the primer and paint stuck to the POR and I think it held very well. Time will tell.

Like many of you, my parts haven't hit the road yet so I don't know how well it will hold up. I do know, it is VERY durable and does not come off of anything, including your hands or clothes.

[rjewkes]

sounds like something i need!