Door speakers

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mjhaltom
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Door speakers

Post by mjhaltom »

Need tips on how to route the wires to the speakers in the doors. How was it done from the factory for the trucks that had factory door speakers? I need to know where to drill holes, what kind of conduit, etc.

Can some of you guys post some PICS of how yours are done? Thanks
2012 Chevrolet Silverado 2wd 4.8 ls auto
2002 Toyota Sequoia 2wd 4.7 auto
1985 GMC 3/4 ton 2wd 350 automatic
1979 Chevrolet C10 350/TH400 14 bolt "Big 10" (DD)
1971 F100 2WD LWB 302 T18 3.70 9inch PS PB
1970 VW Type III squareback cut into pickup dual carbs
1967 Ford F100 LWB 352 3.03 9inch
1967 International Travellall Panel truck
1966 International Scout 800 4X4
1964 Chevrolet C10 on 1986 4X4 frame 350 700r4
1958 Chevrolet DelRay 235 3 speed
1954 GMC rat rod project Scout frame, inline 6, T90 4X4
1953 Chevrolet Tin Woody
1946 Hudson BigBoy Pickup-ratrod project
mjhaltom
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re: Door speakers

Post by mjhaltom »

No one has photos???
2012 Chevrolet Silverado 2wd 4.8 ls auto
2002 Toyota Sequoia 2wd 4.7 auto
1985 GMC 3/4 ton 2wd 350 automatic
1979 Chevrolet C10 350/TH400 14 bolt "Big 10" (DD)
1971 F100 2WD LWB 302 T18 3.70 9inch PS PB
1970 VW Type III squareback cut into pickup dual carbs
1967 Ford F100 LWB 352 3.03 9inch
1967 International Travellall Panel truck
1966 International Scout 800 4X4
1964 Chevrolet C10 on 1986 4X4 frame 350 700r4
1958 Chevrolet DelRay 235 3 speed
1954 GMC rat rod project Scout frame, inline 6, T90 4X4
1953 Chevrolet Tin Woody
1946 Hudson BigBoy Pickup-ratrod project
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rjewkes
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Post by rjewkes »

i don't think any came with door speakers back then everyone was putting them in the dash and they all had only one speaker there stock.

i had speakers in my doors and routed the wires by drilling a hole in each door just half way between the hinges.
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Post by 1971ford »

my door speaker wires are just zip-tied to the hinge of the door. it closes fine and doesnt hit the wires at all.
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Re: Door speakers

Post by guhfluh »

Bringing this back because I have the same question on wiring through the door hinge. I'd like to see pictures if possible.

The factory did offer door speakers with an AM/FM Stereo on the later year model trucks, circa 71-72.

I ordered the factory reproduction speaker grilles from NPD. They are listed as 69-70 Mustang door speaker grilles, but are the same grilles, part number and all that were offered in these trucks. They are for 4x6 speakers.
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red_67f100
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Re: Door speakers

Post by red_67f100 »

I tried to put a pair of 6 x 9 s in the doors and I made the hole about 5 inches below the window crank. This resulted in the windows only rolling down half ways. So be careful where on the door you install them. The lower on the door the better and maybe smaller speakers with a shallow basket will work best. I removed mine and just put them behind the seat and fixed my homemade door panels.
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Re: Door speakers

Post by flyboy2610 »

if I can ever find the time to work on my truck, when I do the power windows I'm going to go to the junkyard and get some door conduit from a clunker. Something like what is on this page:
http://www.shop.nu-relics.com/67-72-For ... 80-201.htm
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Re: Door speakers

Post by guhfluh »

Those look pretty good. Hopefully they fit well. I may browse the yards also and try to find something that will work well. The stereo shop here says he has some door grommets leftover from the 80's when they used to do these types of installs and they might work, but I haven't seen them and it'll be a month before I can get back to working on my truck as well.

These are the door speaker grilles that I have ordered: http://www.nationalpartsdepot.com/store ... 2-301.html

I'd opt for larger, if I could keep it looking period correct or original, because 4x6 is small, but I know these will fit and look correct. I think with the dash speakers, these in the doors(4) and a couple 8" subs under the seat(s), it should sound just fine.

There are other larger grilles for Mustangs of other years and for the package trays that may also work for other people. FYI.
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Re: Door speakers

Post by ultraranger »

This is what I did on my '68 Mustang. I wanted to mount some power remote control side mirrors so, I went to the wrecking yard and pirated a set of mirrors off of an '89 Escort GT. It had a rubber bellows type boot that connected from the side of the cowl to the front edge of the door.

The factory mirror power and speaker wires were run through the boots so, they could be used just to run speaker wires through.

I took a 1" Greenlee electricians knockout punch and popped a hole in the side of the cowl and one on the leading edge of the door to connect the boot to.

You could probably find similar boots on a wrecking yard donor to do basically the same thing on a truck.

1989 Escort GT power side mirrors, control wiring, bellows-type boosts and remote control switch.

Image

Various sizes of Greenlee knockout punches I have that I used to pop the holes for the boots with.

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Hole popped in between the door hinge mounts.

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Hole popped in leading edge of door with boot attached.

Image


....since I've gone this far, might as well show the rest.

'89 Escort GT power remote side mirror mounted to drivers side door of my '68 Mustang.

Image


Mirror remote control switch mounted on drivers side door panel (the black square object towards the front edge of the door panel).

Image


Image


These mirrors, and thus the boots, were installed on '85-'90 Escort GTs, non-Escort GTs with the 'flage style' power remote side mirrors, '80s model Ford EXPs, and 1987-1993 Fox Mustang convertibles.
Steve

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Re: Door speakers

Post by Coupe5oh »

Factory routing

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Re: Door speakers

Post by guhfluh »

Thank you very much! Although that's not exactly what I was expecting, that's exactly what I wanted to know! Now I feel much better about finding a good set of grommets to use and maybe some heatshrink for that short run.

From that point, how does it come into the cab though? I *think* there's a grommet on the pass side that the antenna is supposed to pass through, but I'm not positive...
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'96 Dodge Ram ECLB CTD
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Re: Door speakers

Post by Calfdemon »

I am not running speaker wire, but I am running a lot more wires due to power door locks and power windows. Here is how I did it:

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Re: Door speakers

Post by Coupe5oh »

Yep, it just passes thru the grommet at either side of the firewall...
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Re: Door speakers

Post by CreigN »

I'm adding to this link with a few pics that might help others looking for door wiring solutions.

I didn't install speakers in my doors, but I did install electric windows and auto door locks that also connect to my alarm key fob. I did a lot of research, measurements and layout options to get the best solution for my needs. In the Nu-Relics power window kit for my 1969 F100 Flareside, they included two S Boot rubber conduits that worked perfectly.

With the S Boot, I like that the wiring is fixed in place and does not have any movement that might wear on the wire insulation and it is fully contained where it is running between the door and the A pillar. Nu-Relics does sell the S Boot conduit seperately, as others have mentioned in this Forum. https://www.nu-relics.com/S-Boots-p/9835.htm

S Boot from Nu-Relics
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I used a step bit to drill the holes for the S Boot, one in the door and one in the A Pillar.
Image

Cleaned the burrs on the holes and installed the door side of the S Boot conduit
Image

Image

Bundled the wires, used a little grease and pulled them from the A Pillar side, through the S Boot and into the door (pic is from driver side)
Image

Wiring coming out of S Boot conduit inside of door
Image

Finished Install of S Boot conduit
Image

The installation fit my needs - no wire movement (sliding in and out), no exposed wires and clean looking install.
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Re: Door speakers

Post by guhfluh »

CreigN wrote: Sun Jan 01, 2023 3:48 pm I'm adding to this link with a few pics that might help others looking for door wiring solutions.

I didn't install speakers in my doors, but I did install electric windows and auto door locks that also connect to my alarm key fob. I did a lot of research, measurements and layout options to get the best solution for my needs. In the Nu-Relics power window kit for my 1969 F100 Flareside, they included two S Boot rubber conduits that worked perfectly.

With the S Boot, I like that the wiring is fixed in place and does not have any movement that might wear on the wire insulation and it is fully contained where it is running between the door and the A pillar. Nu-Relics does sell the S Boot conduit seperately, as others have mentioned in this Forum. https://www.nu-relics.com/S-Boots-p/9835.htm

S Boot from Nu-Relics
Image

I used a step bit to drill the holes for the S Boot, one in the door and one in the A Pillar.
Image

Cleaned the burrs on the holes and installed the door side of the S Boot conduit
Image

Image

Bundled the wires, used a little grease and pulled them from the A Pillar side, through the S Boot and into the door (pic is from driver side)
Image

Wiring coming out of S Boot conduit inside of door
Image

Finished Install of S Boot conduit
Image

The installation fit my needs - no wire movement (sliding in and out), no exposed wires and clean looking install.
Awesome, thank you for the post!

Those conduits are exactly like what I ended up using, but I got mine from my local stereo shop and I think mine may have been some ebay brand and were too short. Those Nurelics seem like they are longer, while the ebay ones are 4" and the Nurelics are 5-7" they say, and the Nurelics seem like they may be of a better material as they say they are EDPM. Mine only lasted a few years and now they are cracking and dry rotted.

Those conduits from Nurelic sure are expensive though 😳 The $27+ for shipping for a $17.99 part just seems excessive.
'67 F-250 Crew 2wd 300ci, T-170/RTS/TOD 4-speed overdrive
'96 Dodge Ram ECLB CTD
'99 Dodge Neon ACR 2dr - 10.64@130 (Sold)
'05 Infinity G35 Sedan
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