Mileage Quest 2011!

[r3vo_3vom]

This might be wrong but I have been told in the past that running a 600 cfm four barrel carburetor tuned lean can save you gas because you can run it leaner than a 600 cfm two barrel but will still have the extra two barrels if you need the power for acceleration.

[fomocoguy]

This might be wrong but I have been told in the past that running a 600 cfm four barrel carburetor tuned lean can save you gas because you can run it leaner than a 600 cfm two barrel but will still have the extra two barrels if you need the power for acceleration.

Yep, I have heard that also. If you stay out of it you are only using the primaries, so on a square bore like a 600 Holley you would only be using 300cfm. My problem is staying out of it when I've got a 4 barrel....

[fomocoguy]

Well, my 110a 3G alternator just arrived. I also bought an electric fan off ebay today and have a controller for it coming from summit, along with a new timing set. Once it all gets here I will do it all. I think it's got quite a bit of slack in the timing set, so I'm just gonna knock it all out at the same time. Here's the alt:



Dustin, I know you said a 4g wire would be right for it but it came with an 8g wire already on it. I have some 6g wire I could use here in the garage. Whaddaya think?

[fomocoguy]

Well today was a nice day so I took a break from my [censored] rehab and installed my new alternator. I ended up buying a 4g battery cable and modifying it to fit. I bought an ANL style fuse holder from Best Buy but it was junk, so I've got a nice Stinger brand fuse holder coming by the end of the week so I can install a 150 amp fuse in the cable (that's the closest size I've found over 110).

Anyhow, after installing it I tested the voltage and it's got 14.6v at idle! I could tell right away that all the lights are brighter and work better, as well as the wipers. I even think it warmed up faster and ran smoother. I think my alternator was just about at the end of it's life. That being said, I think I'll make another run tomorrow and see if just the alternator made any difference. My fan should be here friday, along with my timing set and Derale adjustable fan control.

[averagef250]

8 gauge seams pretty small to me for 130 amps @ 12 V DC. Glad to here you went with heavier wire.

[Montana71-F100]

I know there are high efficiency air filters besides the K&N so I did a search and found a very interesting study:

http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/pdfs/Air ... 6_2009.pdf

4.1 CONCLUSIONS
The goal of this study was to explore the effects of a clogged air filter on the fuel economy of vehicles operating over prescribed test cycles. Three newer vehicles (a 2007 Buick Lucerne, a 2006 Dodge Charger, and a 2003 Toyota Camry) and an older carbureted vehicle were tested.
Results show that clogging the air filter has no significant effect on the fuel economy of the newer vehicles (all fuel injected with closed-loop control and one equipped with MDS). The engine control systems were able to maintain the desired AFR regardless of intake restrictions, and therefore fuel consumption was not increased. The carbureted engine did show a decrease in fuel economy with increasing restriction. However, the level of restriction required to cause a substantial (10–15%) decrease in fuel economy (such as that cited in the literature3,4) was so severe that the vehicle was almost undrivable. Acceleration performance on all vehicles was improved with a clean air filter.
Once it was determined how severe the restriction had to be to affect the carbureted vehicle fuel economy, the 2007 Buick Lucerne was retested in a similar manner. We were not able to achieve the level of restriction that was achieved with the 1972 Pontiac with the Lucerne. The Lucerne’s air filter box would not hold the filter in place under such severe conditions. (It is believed that this testing exceeded the design limits of the air box.) Tests were conducted at a lower restriction level (although still considerably more severe than the initial clogged filter testing), allowing the air filter to stay seated in the air box, and no significant change was observed in the Lucerne’s fuel economy or the AFR over the HFET cycle.
Closed-loop control in modern fuel injected vehicle applications is sophisticated enough to keep a clogged air filter from affecting the vehicle fuel economy. However for older, open-loop, carbureted vehicles, a clogged air filter can affect the fuel economy. For the vehicle tested, the fuel economy with a new air filter improved as much as 14% over that with a severely clogged filter (in which the filter was so clogged that drivability was impacted). Under a more typical state of clog, the improvement with a new filter ranged from 2 to 6%.

[fomocoguy]

Thanks for posting that! So upgrading my air intake and filter should/could make a substantial difference. We will see!

[Montana71-F100]

The study shows that a clogged air filter makes very little difference in fuel economy. It helps performance but not MPG. I don't know how that's possible but that's what the study shows.

There is more information on http://www.fueleconomy.gov/

Read the comments on this page: http://cars.about.com/b/2006/05/18/can- ... nd-out.htm

It looks like the K&N filters are not all they're cracked up to be.

This is all news to me. I always thought a clean air filter was a must for fuel economy.

[fomocoguy]

I know there are high efficiency air filters besides the K&N so I did a search and found a very interesting study:

http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/pdfs/Air ... 6_2009.pdf

Closed-loop control in modern fuel injected vehicle applications is sophisticated enough to keep a clogged air filter from affecting the vehicle fuel economy. However for older, open-loop, carbureted vehicles, a clogged air filter can affect the fuel economy. For the vehicle tested, the fuel economy with a new air filter improved as much as 14% over that with a severely clogged filter (in which the filter was so clogged that drivability was impacted). Under a more typical state of clog, the improvement with a new filter ranged from 2 to 6%.

At the end it states that the filter can make a big difference on a carbureted vehicle.

As for k+n filters, I'm actually not much of a believer. I've had one experiance where a dirty k+n filter made my car run terrible. I put the paper filter back in to clean the k+n and it ran so much better I left it in there and tossed the k+n. I just use paper filters and keep up on them usually. In this case I'm more interested in a proper size cold air intake.

[Montana71-F100]

You are right, but the 14% difference was with a filter so clogged that the engine would hardly run. On more typical applications it was 2 to 6 percent. The chart on page 31 shows 2.1 percent and 2.5 percent. I am very surprised at the findings. I'm still going to change my air filter when it needs it. However, now I'm not so sure I know what "when it needs it" means any more!

[Montana71-F100]

I was just looking at http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/maintain.shtml and it says 1–2% Equivalent Gasoline Savings: $0.03–$0.06/gallon so I think it's worth a new air filter once in a while.

[Happy_Camper]

While on the subject of aircleaners...
Maintaining the preheater tube / valve is a great idea.
When connected correctly through a thermal vacuum switch, it will close the door, so that heated air over the exhaust manifold is drawn in, only when the engine is cold. This helps the fuel atomize at lower temperatures, and the choke can be set to open sooner.
If running dual snorkels to fresh air, I'd run a preheater valve on each tube, and "T" the vacuum source.
Anything that can be done to get the choke off quickly, will increase fuel mileage, and help reduce engine oil contamination from fuel. Short runs, will definitely benefit from this.

I'm not a fan of aftermarket oiled air filter elements. It is the oil that traps the dirt, and only as long as the dirt comes in contact with the fresh oil. So maintenance is critical.
I change the element when with a tuneup, only if needed. Normally I hold the element up to a drop light. If light shines through the filter it goes back in truck, after blowing from inside out with about 8-10psi of compressed air (just to get the loose dust off).

I'm enjoying your thread. Lot's of great information here.
Years ago, shell ran a TV ad campaign that featured tips on getting better fuel economy. Basic but good stuff.
Studies have shown, just being aware of fuel mileage will change driving habits, thereby increasing fuel mileage.
Going from 10mpg to 15 mpg, is a 50% savings in fuel costs. That's amazing!

[fomocoguy]

Well, a few runs with the new alternator proves that you don't get something for nothing. I've filled up twice since the install (once doing a bunch of running and once on my dedicated test route) and got 11 and 11.5 mpg. My old alternator was on it's way out and was only barely maintaining the battery, so it makes sense that a new one that is putting out probably 4 times the amperage would have a little more drag. I could tell just spinning the two by hand that there was more mass to spin in the new one. It was also necessary for the electric fan install, so I still believe I will come out ahead once that is all completed. I have all the parts and hopefully will get some time to work on it this week. I can't wait to get that fixed blade fan out of there...

[averagef250]

Where'd the new alternator come from?

[fomocoguy]

Awesome! Thanks for the info. I found one on ebay I think; is this it? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-MUS ... ccessories
I also saw this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-MUS ... ccessories
but 150 amp seems a bit excessive and I would have to change the pully on that one. I would think 110 amp would suffice, wouldn't you?

It's the first one from this post I made a page or two back.