Floor pan replacement cut lines

[tylerb43]

Hey guys, I'm really tired of dancing around this floor replacement and I'm ready to jump in. They've been hanging over my head, and I'd love to have these done by the end of the coming weekend.

So - I noticed most of you guys cut out the entire old floor, your cut line is basically on the vertical surface of the pan. (Green line in picture)

I've decided that I'd really like to keep as much original metal as possible, as long as it's structurally sound. Plus, the original LH pan has the block off plate for the clutch linkage (mine's an auto), and the replacement pan doesn't.

My question is, can anyone tell me why I couldn't cut just the bad section out?? (Red line)
Or - maybe instead of an "L" shape, just leave the cuts lines straight and cut on the flat surface (Yellow lines)??

If I cut on the Red or Yellow lines, I'd butt weld. If I cut the green (on the verticle) I'd probably overlap some.

Opinions? - Oh, and I'd like to thank my wife for the stellar job of holding the new metal for reference!

[fordman]

when using a replacement metal the way it is done usually is to lay the piece on top of where it goes and draw around it. that gives you the cutting edge fo rthe new piece to fit in to be welded in place. to cut on the red lines you will have to figure where the red lines will be on the new piece and cut it. then put it in place mark it and then cut the floor out. you will be able to hind the weld lines easier if you replace the whole piece though.

[fireguywtc]

I think you will be fine. If I had to do it again I would have probably left more of the orginal floor board in mine rather then replacing most of it. Be preparred to measure a dozen times and still not have it exactly right. You will almost certainly have to heat, hammer, and adapt some amount of the new metal to make it fit. I had to do quite a bit of heating, hammering, and welding to get my new pans to fit correctly and it still ended up far from perfect. I mean it looks good, but you can tell it was replaced with some fabrication.

[tynall44]

where did ya but ur floor pans at please ..... thanks

[67mann]

where did ya but ur floor pans at please ..... thanks

Think ya met Buy

Hey Tyler...your wife did a great job and there your floor pans...use as much or little as ya need...theres no rule book on replacing the whole thing Cut what ya want out of the truck,lay the replacement over top of it,trace it,leave the lines,refit it and so on.....You got the Skills

[tylerb43]

where did ya but ur floor pans at please ..... thanks

I bought the pans from NPD, I got the mounts from NPD as well, which are the original tooling ones made by Dennis Carpenter. (NPD sells both the DC mounts and the repro ones)

Bill, I get what you mean about being able to tell, and I'm okay with that. It's the cab floor, right? This isn't a concours restoration, I'm gonna drive this sucker.

Thanks guys, I'm going with the red or yellow, it may be a game time decision. Another concern with cutting the entire thing out is being sure I've got the new floor at the correct "waterline". If I go with the red or yellow lines, it'll be butted to the original floor and be right on.

All you guys have been a huge help so far on my project, thank you!

..and I wish the wife visited the shop more often, but she said she can't take how messy it is right now.

[foghorn]

IMO you should always go with a overlap type of replacement as it will be stronger.Along with being easier to deal with. I have a attachment that fits in my air hammer that makes a flange out of the edge. When you have the new part ready for welding use 1/4" holes spaced 1" apart for welding back in. This makes for real nice spot welding. Make sure you do use joint and seam sealer after all welding is don. But im sure you know to do this. I like sealing mine from both inside and outside both. I also like to use screws to position my part so it dont move and it will pull the metal together where you cant use clamps. With these you can either take them out or grind them off like the spot welds. I usually grind the points off leaving the heads inside.




Foggy

[Racer Z]

tylerb43, I have not done this job yet, but I will soon enough. I started my own thread on the same subject.
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... =6&t=55181
Based on the response I got there, it seems to me that it would just be plain easier to cut out the whole floor and weld in the entire new piece. The cut will be easier and the weld will be easier, not to mention the time and effort to fit it properly.

[northerndave]

Hi guys, newbie to the forums here but not a newbie to this kind of work.

I happen to have a few photos of some quick floor pan replacements I did last fall.

The older I get the more i sway towards the camp of "only replace what needs replaceing" meaning I usually end up cutting my replacement panelsso I'm just replacing the bad/missing old sheet metal.

Not saying I'm doing it right but have a look see.











And the drivers side..





Sometimes you have to make a patch, it's common in the rust belt up here to have to go a little further than the pans will reach.




I cut these old floors ridding the cab of the rusty metal then I laid my replacement pans in place, traced the shape from under the truck then I cut the new pans aprox 7/16" wide of my traced line for a bit of overlap.

this by the way is not my best work my trucks are work/play trucks So I just need to do things well, not perfect.



Hope this can help somebody.

[foghorn]

Nicely done Notherndave did you set the new part in from the inside of the cab or from the outside? I usually set mine from the outside on this kind of repair. Now as for the small patch i would just lay it on from the inside. Just asking so the other guys will know how you did it.




Foggy

[northerndave]

Well I did it on the frame so I laid them in from the inside.