Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild
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- Florian
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild
Is there any wiring to be done for the electronic choke?
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild
I wire to the high idle solenoid connector at the fire wall. The only requirement is the choke must not be tied into the resistor wire or the coil wire after the firewall and must be only turned on if the switch is in run.Florian wrote:Is there any wiring to be done for the electronic choke?
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild
Hmmm...I think I´ll stick to the manual choke. I drove mine with the manual choke for the last few months and never had problems, also got decent fuel mileage. Also I won´t drive over the winter months so I won´t start in very cold temperatures.
I talked to a car guy from here yesterday. He said that Edelbrock carbs were easier to tune and offer very good street performance. The Holley carbs, he ment, were more difficult to work on but deliver more performance in the high rpms.
I don´t know, but I don´t have any experience with tuning carbs, but I´d sure like it to be easy to do it myself.
Are the Holley really harder to set up than the Edelbrocks?
I´d rather have a good street carb that I can tune myself than a over complicated high performance carb that makes a bit more power.
Thanks!
Florian
I talked to a car guy from here yesterday. He said that Edelbrock carbs were easier to tune and offer very good street performance. The Holley carbs, he ment, were more difficult to work on but deliver more performance in the high rpms.
I don´t know, but I don´t have any experience with tuning carbs, but I´d sure like it to be easy to do it myself.

I´d rather have a good street carb that I can tune myself than a over complicated high performance carb that makes a bit more power.
Thanks!
Florian
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild
Damn...just called the machinist. They checked the heads and said that the valve guides were not the best anymore. Also I should go with new oversize valves. All in all their work would cost about $800. Plus the parts! New valves plus new valve guides plus new valve seats ... at least $500
Other option are new heads now..
Which heads would you guys recommend me for the 332 stroker set up?
Here are the heads I came up with the information I have:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Depa ... =Price|Asc
Thanks!
Florian

Other option are new heads now..
Which heads would you guys recommend me for the 332 stroker set up?
Here are the heads I came up with the information I have:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Depa ... =Price|Asc
Thanks!
Florian
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild
The holley is way easier to tune. 4 jets 1 power valve 2 floats 2 idle needles. Oh and for the most part they don't get tuned out of the box. Edelbrock 4 jets 4 needles 1 power valve 2 idle needles. I have worked on both and nothing is easy on Edelbrock. 4 screws and reusable gaskets on a holley for jet changes, power valve changes. 12 on Edelbrock, 1 screw if the float needs work 12 if the Edelbrock float needs work. Dirt in the carb 8 screws to clean a Holley 12 one an Edelbrock and most times an Edelbrock top is removed you need a new gasket.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6049-X307/ My choice Street designed for Hot street performance.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-60399/ 2nd choice, Copied the Ford design of old.
The other heads are high rpm large ports and so on low flow at street rpms.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6049-X307/ My choice Street designed for Hot street performance.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-60399/ 2nd choice, Copied the Ford design of old.
The other heads are high rpm large ports and so on low flow at street rpms.
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild
Thanks Dragon!
What about the other GT-40 heads with 64cc combustion chamber, would that be too large?
What about the other GT-40 heads with 64cc combustion chamber, would that be too large?
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild
I chatted with a guy from Summit, because I wanted to ask if the GT-40 heads really aren´t available before 8/23. He didn´t think so but he said that the GT-40 heads have springs for hydraulic roller cams, not for hydraulic flat tappet cams and that I would have to change springs if I want to run the Crower Baja Beast cam.
Is that true? The Summit guy recommended me the Edelbrock E-Street heads:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-5023/
or http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-5025/
Is that true? The Summit guy recommended me the Edelbrock E-Street heads:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-5023/
or http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-5025/
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild
64s would be good to keep you out of the need for Premium fuel.Florian wrote: What about the other GT-40 heads with 64cc combustion chamber, would that be too large?
Of the 2 Edelbrock heads this one would do you the best.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-5025/
Think of this if Ford Racing found that the Edelbrock heads were better than the GT 40 heads then they would license the design. They didn't. A modern GT 40 is a street Hot Rod. The springs would not even care that you had a light cam compared to stock. Yes a GT 40 cam is a roller and way more radical than the Crower so the springs handle more abuse, a little more lift and will work fine.
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild
That´s an aspect I didn´t think about before! I really don´t want to need to use premium fuel only!64s would be good to keep you out of the need for Premium fuel.
With the old setup I used unleaded 98 octane Super-Petrol with lead substitute. So with a bigger combustion chamber I won´t need premium fuel or what? Do I still need the lead substitute then?
That means that the GT40 springs are harder? Wouldn´t that cause faster wear of the camshaft, because of higher pressure on it? Do I need new pushrods with more lift to clear the stronger springs then?The springs would not even care that you had a light cam compared to stock. Yes a GT 40 cam is a roller and way more radical than the Crower so the springs handle more abuse, a little more lift and will work fine.
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild
Which pushrods would I need for the GT-40 heads? Do they differ in lenght etc?
Which pushrods would I need for the E-Street heads, at the Summit product page it says that hardened pushrods are required.
With the Performer heads I could reuse my old pushrods, is that right?
Which pushrods would I need for the E-Street heads, at the Summit product page it says that hardened pushrods are required.
With the Performer heads I could reuse my old pushrods, is that right?
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild
They want hardened pushrods because the heads are sloppy and the tubes might touch.Hardened refers to the pushrod side wall. You adjust the rockers for a fit on the 302. Even on FEs when we go performance it is easier to get adjustable push rods or convert to adjustable rockers than deal with different length pushrods.
GT-40 and stock are the same length.Requires head bolt kit and bushings on this engine. For 1968 and up.
The Edelbrock kit requires. Requires head bolt bushings, sold separately. Fits 1982-95 stock bolt-down rocker arms.
GT-40 and stock are the same length.Requires head bolt kit and bushings on this engine. For 1968 and up.
The Edelbrock kit requires. Requires head bolt bushings, sold separately. Fits 1982-95 stock bolt-down rocker arms.
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild
So for the Edelbrock 60399 Performer heads I can reuse my old pushrods and also my old rockerarms. But I would need new head bolts (Edelbrock 8552) and bushings (Edelbrock 9680).Dragon wrote:You adjust the rockers for a fit on the 302.
The Edelbrock kit requires. Requires head bolt bushings, sold separately. Fits 1982-95 stock bolt-down rocker arms.
Is that right? Anything I forgot? I just want to make sure I´ve got everything when I order parts because shipping is expensive.
Thanks!
Florian
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild
Nearly all aftermarket type heads use roller rockers that require guide plates and hardened push rods. In the picture that is what these heads look like to me. Might be wrong though. Seems like I am a lot.
Newer Ford heads use stamped steel rocker arms that are just bolted down.
I doubt you can use your rockers or push rods on after market heads. You old rockers had a lip on the underside that kept the rocker lined up on the valve tip. Roller rockers don't have them which is why they use the guide plates and the hardened push rods. Only reason for hardened push rods is they use the guide plates to keep the rocker arms centered on the valve top.
clint

Newer Ford heads use stamped steel rocker arms that are just bolted down.
I doubt you can use your rockers or push rods on after market heads. You old rockers had a lip on the underside that kept the rocker lined up on the valve tip. Roller rockers don't have them which is why they use the guide plates and the hardened push rods. Only reason for hardened push rods is they use the guide plates to keep the rocker arms centered on the valve top.
clint
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild
You can use any rocker with the GT and Edelbrock heads. Though Guide plates are required if you use a ball type rocker because the rocker will turn sideways if the push rod moves sideways. If the heads required a special rocker the page would tell you. See there is two apps and they say different things on the application page 69 to 95 and 68 to 95. That tells me the stock parts from 68 will fit. Also the change over at Ford from 69 and up will fit if the blah blah blah is used.
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Re: Idles good but dies when in gear...complete engine rebuild
Okay then I´ll try out my old rocker arms before I go get new ones.
Can you guys think of any other things I need for my rebuild?
One thing came to my mind, which assembly lubricant or -type is the best? And should I invest the fifty bucks for a one piece Fel Pro oil pan gasket rather than the one that comes with the Fel Pro gasket set?
Thanks!
Florian
Can you guys think of any other things I need for my rebuild?
One thing came to my mind, which assembly lubricant or -type is the best? And should I invest the fifty bucks for a one piece Fel Pro oil pan gasket rather than the one that comes with the Fel Pro gasket set?
Thanks!
Florian
1971 Ford F100, 302cui, 3 on the tree

