Remove the transmission
Moderators: FORDification, 70_F100
- jeepgod
- New Member
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2010 3:54 pm
- Location: Las Vegas, NV
Remove the transmission
I have a 1969 302 4spd 2wd and the flywheel needs to be replaced. I have never had the transmission out of the truck in fact I dont think it has ever been removed. I am looking for some procedures on removing the trans also when you remove the rear drive line will trans fluid leak out of the tail shaft. This is the first major thing I think this truck as ever had done.
2003 VW Jetta 1.8 turbo
1996 Lexus LX450
1969 Ford F-100 2wd 302
1996 Lexus LX450
1969 Ford F-100 2wd 302
-
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 22330
- Joined: Sun Aug 28, 2005 8:17 pm
- Location: Kansas, Ottawa
- Contact:
Re: Remove the transmission
fluid wont leak out of a manual transmission. that is in our trucks originally.
basically.
remove the driveshaft from the transmission.
remove the floor shifter.
remove the floor hump.
remove the backup light wiring.
put a rolling type of jack under the transmission.
remove the rear trans crossmember.
remove the four botls aroudn the bellhousing.
remove the transmission
that may nto be the correct order but that is how it wil come out.
basically.
remove the driveshaft from the transmission.
remove the floor shifter.
remove the floor hump.
remove the backup light wiring.
put a rolling type of jack under the transmission.
remove the rear trans crossmember.
remove the four botls aroudn the bellhousing.
remove the transmission
that may nto be the correct order but that is how it wil come out.
-
- New Member
- Posts: 51
- Joined: Tue May 12, 2009 12:13 pm
Re: Remove the transmission
Thanks Fordman, I'm looking to pull a tranny this weekend that someone is parting out. This is a great start. I guess I'll need to remove the clutch and clutch linkage, the bellhousing and converter also. Some other stuff I'm trying to figure out...bit by bit I guess.fordman wrote:fluid wont leak out of a manual transmission. that is in our trucks originally.
basically.
remove the driveshaft from the transmission.
remove the floor shifter.
remove the floor hump.
remove the backup light wiring.
put a rolling type of jack under the transmission.
remove the rear trans crossmember.
remove the four botls aroudn the bellhousing.
remove the transmission
that may nto be the correct order but that is how it wil come out.
-
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 22330
- Joined: Sun Aug 28, 2005 8:17 pm
- Location: Kansas, Ottawa
- Contact:
Re: Remove the transmission
the bellhousing will come off after the trans is out of the way. the flywheel will need a way to keep the engine from turning when you unbolt them. they make a flywheel holder that sets in the teth you hold with one hand while turning the botls with another hand. but that is hard to get the botls out with one hand. because they are pretty tight. if you have a impact that is the way to go. or another person with a socket on the crank bolt.
-
- Blue Oval Guru
- Posts: 1160
- Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2007 4:47 pm
- Location: The GREAT State Of Missouri
- Contact:
Re: Remove the transmission
I just did the exact same thing your doing jeepgod but on a 70 with a 302. I had to change my flywheel someone gave me a car flywheel when I was doing my NP435 swap and I did it alone I just put a socket and breaker bar on the flywheel bolts and hit the bar with a hammer till they lostened up. What 4spd does yours have?
"Flyin High On Caffine And Copenhagen" R.I.P Chris LeDoux
60 Mercury Comet
65 Ford Econoline
72 Ford F100 on 79 4x4 SWB frame
77 Ford F250 "lowboy" 4x4
09 Harley Xl1200c
60 Mercury Comet
65 Ford Econoline
72 Ford F100 on 79 4x4 SWB frame
77 Ford F250 "lowboy" 4x4
09 Harley Xl1200c
- jeepgod
- New Member
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2010 3:54 pm
- Location: Las Vegas, NV
Re: Remove the transmission
Thanks it doesent seem to hard. I just put a starter in the truck back in october and then a few days ago the drive gear exploded. I want to pull the transmission and inspect/replace the transmission. I just wish I had all the parts lined up to convert to an automatic while I had the transmission out.
2003 VW Jetta 1.8 turbo
1996 Lexus LX450
1969 Ford F-100 2wd 302
1996 Lexus LX450
1969 Ford F-100 2wd 302
- jeepgod
- New Member
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2010 3:54 pm
- Location: Las Vegas, NV
Re: Remove the transmission
How do you remover the shifter?
2003 VW Jetta 1.8 turbo
1996 Lexus LX450
1969 Ford F-100 2wd 302
1996 Lexus LX450
1969 Ford F-100 2wd 302
-
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 22330
- Joined: Sun Aug 28, 2005 8:17 pm
- Location: Kansas, Ottawa
- Contact:
Re: Remove the transmission
that depends on the transmission yo uhave. the T18 has a top the unscrews. it looks like a steel cup. and then you pull it out after you remove the pin i think. the np435 has a push down and turn cap. those can be hard at times. other times they come right out. it depends on the strenght of the spring under the cap. as to how hard it is to push down. my 4wd np435 was a pain to get it out and back in. the spring was really tight. others i have pulled came right out real easy.
- knightfire83
- Blue Oval Fan
- Posts: 567
- Joined: Thu Mar 02, 2006 8:52 pm
- Location: Nebraska, Lincoln
- Contact:
Re: Remove the transmission
Also be aware that the 4-speeds are very heavy and awkward to position on a regular jack, especially if your on your back under the truck. Be careful. 

1974 Ford F-100 4x4- 360 / manual.
1970 Ford F250 4x4 ~ Sold.
1970 Ford F250 4x4 ~ Sold.
-
- New Member
- Posts: 108
- Joined: Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:46 pm
- Location: New York
Re: Remove the transmission
Make sure you chock the wheels before you remove the drive shaft!!!!!
- jeepgod
- New Member
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2010 3:54 pm
- Location: Las Vegas, NV
Re: Remove the transmission
how did you know the e brake dont work.Power By Ford 70 F250 4x4 wrote:Make sure you chock the wheels before you remove the drive shaft!!!!!
2003 VW Jetta 1.8 turbo
1996 Lexus LX450
1969 Ford F-100 2wd 302
1996 Lexus LX450
1969 Ford F-100 2wd 302
- 70_F100
- Moderator
- Posts: 2999
- Joined: Mon Oct 22, 2007 11:23 am
- Location: North Carolina, Kernersville
Re: Remove the transmission
Even if the e-brake works fine, it's a good practice to chock the wheels when working under the vehicle!!jeepgod wrote:how did you know the e brake dont work.Power By Ford 70 F250 4x4 wrote:Make sure you chock the wheels before you remove the drive shaft!!!!!

Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools talk because they have to say something.--Plato
Why is it that there's seldom time to fix it right the first time, but there's always time to fix it right the second time???
That's not an oil leak
That's SWEAT from all that HORSEPOWER!! 
Why is it that there's seldom time to fix it right the first time, but there's always time to fix it right the second time???
That's not an oil leak


-
- Blue Oval Fan
- Posts: 583
- Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 3:50 pm
- Location: Gadsden Purchase
- Contact:
Re: Remove the transmission
x2 on what everybody else said so far. :)
I like to use an engine hoist since I got one...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist1.jpg
And this is a T18 settin' on a piece off the bottom of a washing machine...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist2.jpg
When taking it out or putting it in either one, these work great...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/guidepins.jpg
...they don't allow for things to get very far out of alignment and so make it easy on the "internals". ;)
They were 6" long, grade-5, 7/16" course thread bolts before I cut the heads off 'em in '79 with my
first clutch job on my '75 F150. The yellow pickup is a '75 F100 parts truck.
A T18 weighs about 150 pounds with the tail piece and without the bell housing so it's not like it weighs
too much to handle when you have good position but weighs enough to hurt you if you mess up bad. ;)
You're gonna feel good about yourself and your truck when you get this job done. No kidding. :)
Have fun with it. :)
Alvin in AZ
ps- God, where you at? ;)
I like to use an engine hoist since I got one...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist1.jpg
And this is a T18 settin' on a piece off the bottom of a washing machine...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist2.jpg
When taking it out or putting it in either one, these work great...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/guidepins.jpg
...they don't allow for things to get very far out of alignment and so make it easy on the "internals". ;)
They were 6" long, grade-5, 7/16" course thread bolts before I cut the heads off 'em in '79 with my
first clutch job on my '75 F150. The yellow pickup is a '75 F100 parts truck.
A T18 weighs about 150 pounds with the tail piece and without the bell housing so it's not like it weighs
too much to handle when you have good position but weighs enough to hurt you if you mess up bad. ;)
You're gonna feel good about yourself and your truck when you get this job done. No kidding. :)
Have fun with it. :)
Alvin in AZ
ps- God, where you at? ;)
Last edited by Alvin in AZ on Mon Mar 29, 2010 12:57 am, edited 1 time in total.
-
- Blue Oval Fan
- Posts: 583
- Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 3:50 pm
- Location: Gadsden Purchase
- Contact:
Re: Remove the transmission
Hmmm....fordman wrote:
basically.
remove the driveshaft from the transmission.
remove the floor shifter.
remove the floor hump.
remove the backup light wiring. {speedometer cable}
put a rolling type of jack under the transmission.
remove the rear trans crossmember.
remove the four botls aroudn the bellhousing.
remove the transmission
that may nto be the correct order but that is how it wil come out.
I've never used a floor jack under one, never done one where I had a hard level floor to work on.
Have used lots of wood sticks and cement blocks tho. LOL :) And left the lever attached using it
for a handle. LOL :)
My favorite way is to use the guide pins and unbolt the transmission's cross member from the frame
and slide it back before supporting it, then working at lowering it easy. Oh yeah, I put a foot long
piece of 2 by 4 under the rear of the engine's oil pan (360FE) and a bottle jack under that to support
the rear of the engine. Lately did a 351w (302 too?) and found out it doesn't need any support at all,
the engine mounts were centered and held it fine.
Anybody got any more pet methods? :)
Alvin in AZ
-
- Preferred User
- Posts: 272
- Joined: Sun Aug 17, 2008 11:01 am
- Location: Panama canal zone
Re: Remove the transmission
Hello Alvin In AZ,Thats a T-18 from an F/250,or its going in a F-250??Mine had the slip yoke tail shaft,but I know it came from a F-150 donor,and it went into my daily driver it to an F-150.,alls is well so far,its driving as good as ever,but im still sweating my ????? off,in Panama,How you been???Alvin in AZ wrote:x2 on what everybody else said so far.
I like to use an engine hoist since I got one...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist1.jpg
And this is a T18 settin' on a piece off the bottom of a washing machine...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/hoist2.jpg
When taking it out or putting it in either one, these work great...
http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/guidepins.jpg
...they don't allow for things to get very far out of alignment and so make it easy on the "internals".
They were 6" long, grade-5, 7/16" course thread bolts before I cut the heads off 'em in '79 with my
first clutch job on my '75 F150. The yellow pickup is a '75 F100 parts truck.
A T18 weighs about 150 pounds with the tail piece and without the bell housing so it's not like it weighs
too much to handle when you have good position but weighs enough to hurt you if you mess up bad.![]()
You're gonna feel good about yourself and your truck when you get this job done. No kidding.
Have fun with it.
Alvin in AZ
ps- God, where you at?
94 Ford F-150 super cab
300-6 eod auto,changing to NP-435
300-6 eod auto,changing to NP-435