Too much air? -- Update

[Supermike]

Thanks... I understand the difference now in what I've got vs. what I need.

I still need a diagram for the hose routing for the heated spacer, though, if anyone has one.

[FORDification]

[Supermike]

Thanks, Keith!! I knew you'd come through!

[mylifeswork]

70_F100, your correct. The temperature and humidity conditions must be right for icing to occur. Often when the temperature is colder icing will not happen since the air becomes less humid. Air temps just above freezing with high humidity cause icing. Nice post.

[Supermike]

70_F100, your correct. The temperature and humidity conditions must be right for icing to occur. Often when the temperature is colder icing will not happen since the air becomes less humid. Air temps just above freezing with high humidity cause icing. Nice post.

Agreed... good info. Unfortunately, that's a pretty common condition around these parts (the "Ohio Valley") this time of year.

[70_F100]

70_F100, your correct. The temperature and humidity conditions must be right for icing to occur. Often when the temperature is colder icing will not happen since the air becomes less humid. Air temps just above freezing with high humidity cause icing. Nice post.

Agreed... good info. Unfortunately, that's a pretty common condition around these parts (the "Ohio Valley") this time of year.

Unfortunately, it's a pretty common condition here in north central NC, too, and I don't have a heated spacer either!!!

[mylifeswork]

I suppose I'm spoiled here in California. We have the right conditions sometimes but not that often.

[Supermike]

Just a little update... thanks to a LOT of help/advice from Tim P., as well as some parts, I'm on track to hopefully sorting this out. I have installed new valve cover gaskets (not necessary, but looks nice), a new 195° thermostat and gasket, a heated carb spacer and new gaskets, new heater hose, have cleaned the carb extensively, and installed a manifold shield/air riser. BTW, as you can see from the pictures, Tim did some great work on the air cleaner, snorkel, and riser for me! I feel like I robbed him...

The problem I'm having right now is that my snorkel does not meet up with my air riser!! This air cleaner is from 70 390, but the snorkel is one that I had from the bastardized air cleaner that came on my truck when I got it. I THOUGHT they would match up, but the air cleaner can not pivot far enough for them to mate up right. Apparently what I need is one like in the picture above that has that hitch and drop to it.

Any ideas??

[hdpusher]

I remember being told in cold weather always run the choke Slightly on and I always have. It would seem to me this would limit the amount of air creating a rich mixture stopping the carb from running lean and icing. Or am I off base with this?

[Supermike]

Just an update on this topic...

So after installing:
- a heated carb spacer
- new carb gaskets
- a 195°thermostat and gasket
- new heater hoses
- new lower radiator hoses
- an oem air riser
- a "new" air cleaner
- "new" valve covers and gaskets
- adjusting the timing
- adjusting the Carb

I am happy to say that THIS ISSUE IS RESOLVED!

I used to have to fudge with the choke and pump the pedal several times. Now I pull out the choke, press down on the pedal, and it fires right up - and stays running! It warms up in half the time as it took before, and it runs smoother than it ever has. No stalling, no stumbling, no spitting of gas all over the manifold. It runs great! And I don't have all that fuel smell when I'm done driving it, either!

A big thanks to everyone here for your suggestions and help, they helped a lot! Also a HUGE thanks to Tim P., who was not only my 'supplier' of the air cleaner and valve covers and gaskets (among other necessary components), but was also kind enough to blast and paint my air riser and snorkel to match. Unfortunately I had to go with a different snorkel, but he treated me REALLY fair and did a great job. AND, on top of that, we exchanged probably 100 emails and a couple of phone calls of me asking questions. Overall, this job cost me close to $400, but it was worth it!

Below are some before and after pics... from when I got the truck, to when I had the "big 'ol air cleaner" on it, to what it looks like now. It may not look as "beefy" with this setup as it did with the big cleaner, but it sure as heck runs a lot better. And a cool feature of the air cleaner I got from Tim is that it has holes all the way around it. This was a factory deal, not something he did. In the summer, I can just pop out those plugs if I wish to get more air. Or I can take it all off and put on the open air cleaner.

This is what the engine looked like when I got the truck in 2007:

original.jpg

This is what it looked like when I posted this topic. This was after the installation of new plugs/wires, the pertronix II, and the monster air cleaner. I had also added a brake booster and new vacuum lines (trans was rebuilt, too):

in progress.jpg

Finally, this is what it looks like now, with all of the "upgrades" noted above:

complete.jpg

[ximy]

wow.. should have no problem keeping warm now.

[Supermike]

wow.. should have no problem keeping warm now.

Digging this back up because now I'm afraid of the opposite problem!

As a quick refresher for anyone that doesn't want to read this whole thread (if not already familiar), I recently installed a 195° thermostat (non-performance) per the consensus advice here, as well a heated carb spacer. I also installed a factory-type air cleaner and heat riser. I also had the carb "dialed in" by a professional that has been running a carb shop for 40 years.

As a result, my truck now fires up GREAT when cold, and warms up twice as fast (and smooth) as it ever has. It also runs really well. But you know, it can't be that simple...

The temps are now warming up outside, and I've noticed the temperature gauge trending toward hot. It used to hover just toward the right side of middle. Now it seems to move about 3/4 of the way toward hot. It seems to drop a little when I run the heater, or when it's really cold outside. ALSO, once the engine is hot, if I have to shut it off it doesn't fire back up quite as easily. Finally, when idling in P/N, it idles fine, but in drive if I have to sit for a while with my foot on the brake (long traffic light, drive thru, etc.) it has stalled out a couple times. I can usually feel this coming and close the choke a bit (pull out the knob slightly) and keep it going.

I was talking to Tim P. today, and he thought it might be a good idea to install a shut-off valve on the heater hose that runs to the carb spacer. That way when it's warm out, I can just shut it off. Another suggestion was to install a phenolic spacer, but I'm worried that would prevent my air cleaner and heat riser from mating up right. And finally, he suggested that maybe I should consider changing the 'stat to a 180° high-performance. All sound reasonable.

SO... I'm just putting this out there for feedback... anyone have any thoughts? I know the thermostat question was a good point of discussion, and it seemed to settle on the 195. But would that be the reason I'm running hot? I've seen the suggestion to drill a little (how little?) hole in it, but perhaps the better route might be to just replace it with a $12 hipo 'stat?

Or maybe I should leave it alone and see what happens when it gets into the 70s/80s outside.

[eggman918]

I ran my carb spacer on the heater circuit so it is only hot when the heater is on

[Supermike]

There's some logic there, but I often don't run my heater because it's hot enough with my coat on in the truck (once warmed up) that I don't need it. The heater will burn me out of the cab if I let it...

[george worley]

It could be the gas. Gas formulated for winter temperatures can cause problems when there is a quick warm up in the temperature. The winter mixture is more prone to vapor lock or boil in the carb on warm days. My truck temperature gauge read 3/4 with a 195 stat. I run a 180 here in Florida and it pretty much stays in the middle. The best way to check your coolant temperature is with a thermomator.