Yep, a top pivot voltmeter that hopefully can be made to look similiar to the other original dash guages. I almost bought the mechanical oil pressure and water temp guages (and still might). They were all 60` sweep.
Once it's here I'll get rid of the shell and see what I need to do to back mount it like the original with an original alternator mounting plate and maybe even the pointer Then hopefully I can figure out some cool way to make a new 'VOLT' label and finally know how my battery is doing.
Jamie,
Shayne, (moderator Thunderfoot) was doing this years ago to the F-600 panels gauges.
He has a thread here somewhere with a lot of info on how he did it I thought might help. http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... =2&t=39982&
Jeff http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
basketcase0302 wrote:Jamie,
Shayne, (moderator Thunderfoot) was doing this years ago to the F-600 panels gauges.
He has a thread here somewhere with a lot of info on how he did it I thought might help. http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... =2&t=39982&
Yeah but F-600's use regular style gauges (pivot on the bottom). I wanted something with the same style sweep as stock for the guys with stock clusters.
This will be an awesome upgrade for our trucks panels Jamie!
Jeff http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
Size looks good, depth is good too. Even the stud spacing is within 3/16"... The OEM faceplate is held on by a crimp that some needle nose pliers released in a minutes work.
Used my belt sander to seperate the front cover from the rest of the gauge.
Not bad...
Looks like about two minutes of round filing to get the holes offset enough to put the factory electrical isolators back in place. The foil should be cutable with scissors. The studs are even the same thread pitch as the original gauge.
Finally a money shot (larger if you click on it). The old fuzzy lens is missing and overall I'm really impressed by this. Other than making a new faceplate I have about ten minutes into it so far. It's hard to see, but the Sunpro gauge face is held on the guage by two tiny phillips screws. The simplest thing looks to be just redrill the OEM faceplate and apply a sticker with the voltage points. The gauge has a calibration pot so it shouldn't be too hard to get the pointer to line up with the marks.
Looks good Jamie, and it's a much needed part addition for our trucks for sure!
Jeff http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
Red isolator thingies. I'll probably goop some RTV on the voltmeter once I'm done with it as a more stable and permanent isolator.
Back of voltmeter with the ammeter faceplate. Notice little round file
I used my bandsaw and file cut it using just the teeth as a file. Then drilled the holes with my trusty 1/16" drill bit.
And it looks pretty good. The pointer is a little fatter than the OEM but I don't know if it's worth the effort to file it thinner without buggering the mechanism. I am going to paint the other pointers florescent red next time I find it in a can locally.
As a side note, I won an auction for all three gauges so I guess I'll be installing a mechanical oil pressure and water temp gauge too.
Here's a quick update. I spent some time today making the decals and am not totally impressed with how they turned out since I had to work within the limits of the label maker's program.
Some different versions. I ended up trying to make the text the same height as original but had trouble getting the text thin enough to look decent. Compromise was the word of the day.
Installed it doesn't look too bad but the new decal is much brighter and just different than the others.
Finally, a shot of the cluster in the truck, still no lens. I have the oil pressure and water temp coming so I think I'm going to just make a fuel level gauge too so they all match. I have a nice repro bezel for the cluster
I have some time off tomorrow after an 84hr week so I think I'm going to tinker with the truck some more.
Jamie
We'll start with the oil pressure, this is going to get interesting.
Belt sander for the win, not much to either gauge. New oil pressure is held by the fitting, the turn signal and high beam light wiring will need rerouted on the backplane...
Maybe if I thin out the Sunpro holder I can use it to hold the gauge at the correct depth. Or I might just use the fitting and figure out how to mount the OEM face to the Sunpro gauge. The Sunpro guage has a stop pin on the faceplate I'll have to work around too.
As a metter of fact, i AM trying to keep up with the Jones'
Driving like Parnelli, Drinkin' like George
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- still got my first first car 20+yrs later : 69 f100 sorta kinda pretending its a Mercury M100 w/a 70 f350 sport custom cab (factory buckets) 67 grille with 69 ranger cooneyes 68 merc box and hood,some supercool fiberglass fenders i scored way back when, 76 f150 disc brake frontend..currently running a 90 5.0HO 4bbl/c4 auto & 3.50 posi...originally a 360/c6 f100 Ranger with dealer added towpack (incl. kelsey hays trailer brake),boxside toolbox,behind the seat stowage & belly tank...only original parts left on 'er are the frame,rear end,rear springs,and rear bumper...
