Starter Solonoid amp rating?

[CJ,s 67 F100]

Just out of curiosity does any one know the stock OEM inner fender mounted starter solenoid amp rating? We lost another starter and I broke down and purchased a Tilton Starter this time. They recommend 0 gauge wires for it so I am having a local welding supply make me up a set. They say the stock oem solenoid is fine but I'm just trying to cover all bases here this time

[71 LONG BED]

Sorry to hear that Charles. That truck sure is hungry for starters!!! I hope you get it taken care of for good this time. How did you make out with the body repairs after the fenderbender? Oh, wait what was the question again?... Sorry I got off topic real quick. I'm afraid I jumped in too quick because I don't have the answer your looking for. Sorry.

[CJ,s 67 F100]

John, I think the whole problem is my son's driving habits. He runs around town and starts it and stop's it probably 40-50 times a day in this Texas Hotter than heck summer we have had. Tilton engineering told me regular headers put out 1700 degrees of heat aimed at the starter. They told me my Hooker ceramics put 1200 Degrees of heat aimed at the starter. I told them I made a home made heat shield and they said that is what made the PowerMaster Ultra Torque last 3 months in this Texas heat with the current driving conditions. They recommended the clamp on header wraps for the starter side with the starter wrap barrier. I have ordered the clamp on Header wraps. I have the starter blanket and I am going to reinstall my heat shield. That and the recommended 0 gauge cables. I hope this will work. If it does not work I,m thinking of stock manifolds, building a set of shorty headers or inner fender exit headers.

[Fake Name]

PowerMaster Ultra Torque last 3 months in this Texas heat with the current driving conditions.

You mean that no-good piece of junk? The one I bought from you???

fn

Oops- nope, that was Duc Ryder...Ducati- Italian for "valve adjustment".

[68F250]

I think the solenoid is good for 500 amps (intermittent duty).

Measure the voltage drop across the two big posts when cranking the starter motor over. Should not exceed two-tenths of a volt.

[71 LONG BED]

Charles, I think your right. The gains from the headers are being out weighed by the cost and aggravation of frying starters. My fingers are crossed that the wrap and heat blanket work and you don't need to go back to the manifolds.

[CJ,s 67 F100]

Thanks Barry, This new Tilton starter is rated at 175 amp so I will measure it when I get it installed. I have two new 1/0 cables for the + side so I will not have any loss due to cables.

Thanks every one. I,m going to try this one more time

[71 LONG BED]

My fingers are crossed!

[adrianspeeder]

What the heck is he doin with all that stoppin and starting?

Adrianspeeder

[Mooosman]

I'd say that if the truck's cooling system can handle the long idle periods, have him leave it running when he just runs into a place for a couple minutes.

Make an extra copy of the key, so he can still lock the door and leave it running.

If he just does a lot of "running inside for 5 minutes" stuff, that may cut his starts down by quite a bit.

Nick,
Sometimes headers are more trouble than they're worth...

[kid]

Charles, I think your right. The gains from the headers are being out weighed by the cost and aggravation of frying starters. My fingers are crossed that the wrap and heat blanket work and you don't need to go back to the manifolds.

I had a Camaro that did that. I had to carry a spare starter with plug in wiring harness connectors so I could quick drop and exchange the starter. Chevy's only better idea was those downward pointing starter bolts. After the removed starter cooled down the car worked fine.


Bolt a large curved aluminum plate to the center outside starter bolt and shed the heat like crazy. I installed the top two bolts on my desert racing truck and then with a long extension my 390 starter was shielded. I built the shield by taking a piece of 14qa 5052 aluminum and wrapping it over the starter then cutting it to size. I trimmed a tab out of one end and bent it over to make the bolt mount. I never had starter problems playing in the Mojave or Baja deserts where it is a lot hotter than Texas believe me.

And also paint the starter with White header paint. Black sheds heat faster but white does not absorb radiated heat as fast. The shield trick is off a GT-C car I helped tune for high altitude.