Do the shift arm bushings come in different sizes depending on the year of the column?
I purchased the bushing kit from Dennis Carpenter a couple years ago. I recently threw away the bag with part numbers so I can't check, but thought I had the right ones. However, while getting my new power steering column ready to install I have found the bushings don't seem to be right. The outside diameter of the rubber insulators at the center is greater than the inside diameter of the shift arm hole.
All the ones I see online seem to have the same part number.
So what am I missing here? Even when I get the right size I'm wondering how the heck I'm going to squeeze that hard rubber through that much smaller hole.
Well I mounted the bushings on my lathe and tried to trim down the groove to .525" to match the diameter of the hole in the shift arms but there is not enough meat left between the two sides and they came apart...
I took the original shift arms from my manual steering column and pried the bushings off and removed the rubber insulator. What I found is that the holes in those arms was almost 3/4" (.745"). Quite a bit larger than the hole in the power steering shift arms. f got the shift arm from a manual column too and the hole through it is also the smaller .525".
Crazy thing is all the parts places only sell bushings that share the same part number and all appear to be of the larger holes. I guess I have to order another set of insulators and bushings and drill out the holes on the shift arms.
So, another stupid question. The copper bushings that go through the rubber insulators extend about 1/8" through the other side of the insulator. On the originals there is another washer on that side and the bushing is flanged over flat to hold the washer in place. How the heck do I do that?
Mine is rubber. Pushes thru the shift arm rather tightly and then its a real hard push to get the selector arm post thru. Nothing holds it in place except friction. Stayed there for 18 years so far since i converted to automatic
JESUS LOVES YOU! everyone else thinks your a jackass!
I replaced mine in my 3OTT linkage and yes, they were a hard fit and tough install. They did seem to be too big and too thick but, with a little lubricant and some gentle persuasion with a screwdriver and some needle nose pliers, I got them in. Had to squeeze the brass bushing through with pliers and marked it, too tough to push my hand. Then pulled it back out and ground off that shoulder you referred to on my bench grinder, lubed it and reinstalled. Found a thin washer at Ace Hardware to use on the back side. Be sure and lube the shift linkage before you slide it through the bushing. The retainer was the hardest part to install. Had to use 2 pairs of vice grips and compress the washer/rubber to give enough clearance to slide it on. Very tedious and frustrating but it went together and performed well.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
Well, I tried all the bushings available from various vendors and finally gave up. They were all made for the larger holes in my original manual shift arms. After burning up a few drill bits in the drill press trying to enlarge the holes I broke down and took them to a local machine shop. He milled out the holes for me and said those arms were the hardest steel he has worked on in a long time. Eventually got it all back together and steering column back in place. I'm wondering if the holes were different sizes based on the year or if all the manual were a different diameter than all the power steering arms. Anyway, just thought I would post so the next person who runs in to this won't try ordering every different bushing they can find...
AZf100 wrote:I'm Having the Same problem trying to find the Correct size, thanks for the info. I Was kinda stuck on that.
Yeah, I should have gone straight to the machine shop and been done $15.00 later. Instead I mucked around trying to modify wrong size bushings and ordering everything for various year models and applications from different vendors.
