So This is Why It Goes "Clunk!"

Clutch, transmission, rear axle

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colnago
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So This is Why It Goes "Clunk!"

Post by colnago »

I think the photo says it all. The good ends were connected to the slip joint on my C6, the munched ends were connected to the connecting shaft. Good thing I needed to get a new connecting shaft anyway!

Joseph
U-Joint 2.jpg
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"Sugar", my 1967 Ford F250 2WD Camper Special, 352FE, Ford iron "T" Intake with 1405 Edelbrock, Duraspark II Ignition, C6 transmission, front disc brake conversion.
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Re: So This is Why It Goes "Clunk!"

Post by Jacksdad »

Okay, I thought my UJs were bad when I found I'd lost the needle bearings in one, but you have me beat by a mile. And them some.

Yes, you definitely found the source of at least one clunk. But it's a bump. There's always going to be another somewhere :wink:
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Re: So This is Why It Goes "Clunk!"

Post by sargentrs »

Ouch! Close call on that one. :eek:
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Re: So This is Why It Goes "Clunk!"

Post by Mancar1 »

Ok the photo pushed me to action.
Been going to replace the u joints in the 68 CS for a while now. Think I will getter done. :lol: :thup:
Thanks Joseph, and Keep on Trucking...........John.
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Re: So This is Why It Goes "Clunk!"

Post by Lee »

Hi,

By chance are the failed ends,... the ends that are secured with the U-bolts?

Reason I ask is because I have had a similar failure with fairly new U-joints. The reason was I was over tightening the U-bolts, crushing the needle bearing caps.

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Lee
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Re: So This is Why It Goes "Clunk!"

Post by colnago »

Lee wrote:By chance are the failed ends,... the ends that are secured with the U-bolts?
In my case, I had a slip yoke coming out from the C6 transmission, and it didn’t use U-bolts. Neither did the coupling shaft. The C6 had a long tailshaft, and the coupling shaft was only 2" in diameter, so I'm wondering if the whole thing came out of a car. Also, the U-joint is the smaller 1310, not the 1330 that should be in a 3/4-ton truck. I figure that I probably had less than a month before it completely dissolved on me.

Good to know about overtightening the U-bolts. I'm putting in a different C6, and it does use the U-bolts. I can definitely see myself crunching down with a wrench, to make sure it's not loose.

Joseph
"Sugar", my 1967 Ford F250 2WD Camper Special, 352FE, Ford iron "T" Intake with 1405 Edelbrock, Duraspark II Ignition, C6 transmission, front disc brake conversion.
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Re: So This is Why It Goes "Clunk!"

Post by Manny »

Wow just saw those man talking about paper thin!!! :eek:
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Re: So This is Why It Goes "Clunk!"

Post by Dr Farnsworth »

Get a tire up in the air and rotate the driveshaft back and forth by hand while you have the truck in gear or park (motor off and on a jack stand). Look and and feel for any movement on each of the U-joints. If there is any movement you need to replace the joint.
Replace if the U-joint won't take any grease. It can be a sign of rust or contamination in the U-joint.

Unfortunately, this does not work 100% of the time, so use any random excuse as a reason to replace a U-joint.

I had a front one fail on me years ago, it destroyed the ENTIRE drive-train, engine, all the way to the rear axle.
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Re: So This is Why It Goes "Clunk!"

Post by Ohiotinkerer »

Dr Farnsworth wrote:Get a tire up in the air and rotate the driveshaft back and forth by hand while you have the truck in gear or park (motor off and on a jack stand). Look and and feel for any movement on each of the U-joints. If there is any movement you need to replace the joint.
Replace if the U-joint won't take any grease. It can be a sign of rust or contamination in the U-joint.

Unfortunately, this does not work 100% of the time, so use any random excuse as a reason to replace a U-joint.

I had a front one fail on me years ago, it destroyed the ENTIRE drive-train, engine, all the way to the rear axle.

After losing a rear one between Cheyenne and Rawlins Wyoming years ago when I would go to visit family in Idaho I ALWAYS replace them on any vehicle I get that has them no matter they look good and/or take grease......there is nothing between those 2 cities and did manage to limp it (at 40 mph on I-80) into Rawlins where it cost me $140 to have both u joints replaced...... After that experience I look at it as cheap insurance and piece of mind......... :D
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