Clutch, transmission, rear axle
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Did you use the higher bolt on tunnel cover for your M5R2 swap? did you use the large boot that would have been on the OEM floor shift that they sell in repo?
How about the hydro clutch: did you remake the arm that connects to the MC piston to orient it properly to push?
Yes, I used the large floor hump. I've never actually seen the low hump in one of these trucks. Owned several dozen bumps, but they were mostly 4x4's. I use the factory original shift boot and the original 4 speed stick. I straighten the original stick out perfectly straight with my torch and weld it at the bottom to the base of the late model shifter stick so it bolts right up. From in the cab the shifter looks completely original if you didn't know being straight was wrong.
Depending on the master you use you will have to match the geometry of the application it came from. In a nutshell, figure out the exact master cylinder stroke in it's OE application, measure the angular movement of your trucks clutch pedal and do some math to determine how long the pivot rods needs to be to actuate the master correctly.
1970 F-250 4x4 original Willock swivel frame chassis '93 5.9 Cummins/Getrag/NP205/HP60/D70
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Dragging up an old post but adding some useful info. To actuate the master cylinder you can buy a Ford replacement lever to adapt onto your clutch lever. E7TZ7A554A. Hardest part would be lining up and mounting the master cylinder at the right height and mounting the lever in the right position for your pedal to push it the proper amount of throw.
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