Engine Install Questions

Engine, ignition, fuel, cooling, exhaust

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colnago
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Engine Install Questions

Post by colnago »

I'm not sure if this is the right place, but here goes. I'm finishing up my rebuild project (352 engine and C6 tranny), and have two basic(ally stupid) questions:

1. Is it easier to bolt the engine/tranny together before I lift them into the truck, or to lift them in separately, and connect them together in the truck?

2. Is it easiest/fastest/safest to remove the front clip before the uninstall/reinstall, or just lift it all in (together or separately) over the radiator?

I'll be using one of those generic 2-ton cherry pickers (at the longest extension, which is rated at 1000 lbs), if that makes any difference. All work will be done in the driveway of a typical tract house.

Joseph
"Sugar", my 1967 Ford F250 2WD Camper Special, 352FE, Ford iron "T" Intake with 1405 Edelbrock, Duraspark II Ignition, C6 transmission, front disc brake conversion.
cep62
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Re: Engine Install Questions

Post by cep62 »

If you're planning to take the front clip off any way , bolt them together then install.

If not lift the engine over the rad support and mate it to the trans. (remove the radiator first)

A tip , Get two 7/16 coarse bolts the same length as your bell housing bolts ,and cut the heads off and taper the ends.
put them in the lower holes to use as aligning pins .
Just put them in finger tight .

:2cents:
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Manny
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Re: Engine Install Questions

Post by Manny »

Agree no front clip package deal. Front clip on then go one at the time. Also if going over the core support take the front wheels off and lower her down as low as you can. Fe hanging way high is not good. Make certain as you align the converter you get your drain plug in the converter lined up with the hole in the flex plate. Show us some pictures!!! :thup:
Just another Ford fool named Dan.
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http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=86706
1974 Bronco 302 3 speed
1984 bronco 302 c6 35's
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woods wrote: The rust holes in my truck were a factory install (very rare).
tnlprt
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Re: Engine Install Questions

Post by tnlprt »

Put it in as one unit
Leave the front clip on
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thatoneguy
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Re: Engine Install Questions

Post by thatoneguy »

When I put the 302/C4 in my truck, I installed them bolted together with the front clip still on and it was a PITA. I took the front wheels off and set it down on the ground (IIRC I put a couple blocks of wood under the radius arm bolts so it wouldn't be resting directly on the drums).

My recommendation would be to take the front clip off if you are willing and able to, it will make things 10x easier when you go to put it in as well as when you bolt it all together.

As someone already said, whatever you do, definitely get pictures! I wish I had more pictures from my build.
Aaron V.
1970 Ford F100 4x4 390/4-spd
1973 Ford Maverick 302/C4
1979 Chevrolet C30 Ramp Truck 454/TH-400
1948 Chevrolet 3800 216/4-spd
1995 Jeep Cherokee 4.0/5-spd
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idaho_cowboy
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Re: Engine Install Questions

Post by idaho_cowboy »

Front clip is really easy to remove. Two-man job. Makes getting the engine/tranny in (connected) a breeze.

Also a good chance to clean-up everything.

Don't forget the fender bolts that come in through the holes in the cab where the door hinges are.

- Joseph
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Gustavo 390
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Re: Engine Install Questions

Post by Gustavo 390 »

I agree, if your not removing the front clip then install them one at a time. I also agree on lowering the truck. My engine was scary high in the air when I installed my engine
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Re: Engine Install Questions

Post by tnlprt »

390 swap .jpg
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cep62
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Re: Engine Install Questions

Post by cep62 »

idaho_cowboy wrote:Front clip is really easy to remove. Two-man job
But then you have to put it back on AND line it up.
Depending on how rusty yours is , will make a difference.

Also if you do the one piece , instead of lowering the front and taking the wheels off, you can jack up the back
to get a better angle.
Big heavy duty jack stands are worth the price.
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Re: Engine Install Questions

Post by MTM »

When i put the 390/C6 back into my LTD I had to pump it all the way up and use the engine leveler to jockey it into place. The front clip was on and the core support was really high up because the suspension was uncompressed. I had the rear wheels on ramps to help with the angle but it sat pretty much flat. It was too high for comfort and I would do it differently if I had to do it again.

I would not want to try that in a truck. I would say pull the wheels and lay it on blocks as was said earlier and get a load leveler to get it to drop in easy of you are not wanting to pull the front clip off.

Sometimes it is easier to go through more steps to make certain things easier. 15 years ago I worked at a dealership and one of my coworkers replaced head gaskets in a 5.4 in an Expedition. He unbolted the body mounts, disconnected the steering, brake/fuel lines and wiring. Then he lifted the body up on the lift and rolled the chassis out from under it. It only took him about 1.5 hours. He said the techs that he used to work with that did the job often could have the body and chassis apart in 45 min!
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