F100 oil pans

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RangerXLTMan
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F100 oil pans

Post by RangerXLTMan »

Does anyone know if a double sump oil pan for a 5.0 engine will fit ok in a 1970 F100? My engine has a front sump pan right now and the oil drain plug is so close to the front cross member that it's really messy when changing oil because there is so little clearance to remove the drain plug. Hope somebody has tried the double sump pan and it worked for them. Thanks guys.
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colnago
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Re: F100 oil pans

Post by colnago »

Is this for a 360/390? I don’t recall anyone on the forum ever mentioning that they used a pan from a 5.0. However, I do remember reading that the pan from a 4x4 uses a rear sump, or the pan from an FT using a rear sump, and fitting an FE.

While I think this was a poor design choice on Ford's part, can you still remove the plug? I always make a tray out of aluminum foil to divert the oil to the back of the cross member. It's still messy, but easier than finding a new pan.

Joseph
"Sugar", my 1967 Ford F250 2WD Camper Special, 352FE, Ford iron "T" Intake with 1405 Edelbrock, Duraspark II Ignition, C6 transmission, front disc brake conversion.
71Fe2O3
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Re: F100 oil pans

Post by 71Fe2O3 »

I put a Fumoto valve on mine. The valve has a nipple on it, to which I hook a piece of hose long enough to drain the oil without dripping any on the crossmember. It makes oil changes super easy, no tool required, no mess,and certainly easier than replacing the oil pan.
Fred

1970 F100 4WD short bed, 360 engine, very rusty plow and yard truck

1971 F100 2WD long bed, 302 engine, on the road

1968 F100 2WD long bed, 360 engine, stripping for parts
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sargentrs
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Re: F100 oil pans

Post by sargentrs »

71Fe2O3 wrote:I put a Fumoto valve on mine.
Thanks for that tip, 71Fe203! I'm getting one of those. No more stripped oil pan threads and messy oil changes! Fumoto F101N
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Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
71Fe2O3
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Re: F100 oil pans

Post by 71Fe2O3 »

You are very welcome. I put them on all of my vehicles, and also on the engine of a generator that I maintain for my in-laws. They save time and make oil changes a lot neater, especially for the F100-no more oily crossmember or rigging up devices to direct the oil away from it-turn the valve, let it flow, shut it off and you're finished.
Fred

1970 F100 4WD short bed, 360 engine, very rusty plow and yard truck

1971 F100 2WD long bed, 302 engine, on the road

1968 F100 2WD long bed, 360 engine, stripping for parts
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colnago
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Re: F100 oil pans

Post by colnago »

71Fe2O3 wrote:I put a Fumoto valve on mine. The valve has a nipple on it, to which I hook a piece of hose long enough to drain the oil without dripping any on the crossmember. It makes oil changes super easy, no tool required, no mess,and certainly easier than replacing the oil pan.
Do you know how long it is, from oil pan surface to end of the hose fitting? I found another brand that uses a 90-degree elbow, instead of coming straight down. Do you know if there would be any problem with drilling through the cross member, so I could come straight down?

Joseph
"Sugar", my 1967 Ford F250 2WD Camper Special, 352FE, Ford iron "T" Intake with 1405 Edelbrock, Duraspark II Ignition, C6 transmission, front disc brake conversion.
71Fe2O3
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Re: F100 oil pans

Post by 71Fe2O3 »

It is about 1.5" to the end of the hose nipple, and the model without the hose nipple is about 1" long-that may be enough to clear the crossmember if you are averse to the hose nipple. You could certainly drill or notch the crossmember if you feel so inclined, but it is a lot easier just to put a piece of hose on the end of the nipple that clears the crossmember and the steering components and puts the oil right where you want it to go. I just leave the hose on mine-it has stayed on for several years without a clamp. I have seen a competing product on Amazon, but it got some negative reviews. All four of the Fumotos I have in service have performed perfectly for several years. They are well engineered, nicely machined, and don't leak or vibrate loose.
Fred

1970 F100 4WD short bed, 360 engine, very rusty plow and yard truck

1971 F100 2WD long bed, 302 engine, on the road

1968 F100 2WD long bed, 360 engine, stripping for parts
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