Have a 71 F 100 360
2100 carb from what I have gathered from recent research.
Flooding while engine off after running. Burbling inside. I pulled off the top to see the float bowl with air bubbles all around it
Yanked the float out and the seat was bubbling up air. New fuel pump, no leaks.. Bubbles leaking out diaphragm valve in front of jets and even a couple from the jets. Same thing I have read on this site. After shut down a waft of dry ice like fog comes up and spills over the top of the carb.
A constant drip of fuel drizzles down the throat below the venturies dripping on the throttle plates.
Drowning in fuel. I will put a rebuild kit in it also a 1-5 adjustable pressure reducer.
See what that gets me.
Flooding carb 2100
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Re: Flooding carb 2100
I think your problem is heat soak and the fuel is boiling. Put a spacer under the carb to raise it from the intake a little. There is a heat transfer that goes through the intake that goes through under the carb, That is giving you all the exhaust heat right under the carb.
You could also put aluminum foil under the carb bowl, That will not let the heat pass from the intake to the carb to boil the fuel. I have never tried this but I know that aluminum is great at stopping heat transfer. And it cheap way to see if this is your problem.
Rebuild is really not going to help with the problem.
You could also put aluminum foil under the carb bowl, That will not let the heat pass from the intake to the carb to boil the fuel. I have never tried this but I know that aluminum is great at stopping heat transfer. And it cheap way to see if this is your problem.
Rebuild is really not going to help with the problem.
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Re: Flooding carb 2100
A carbon fiber shield would do the trick... plus a phenolic carb spacer. That is if you can find one for a 2V carb. If you're handy, try fabbing one out of a hardwood like oak or maple and to test if a non-metallic spacer relieves the symptoms of heat soak. Another idea is to increase the underhood venting or evacuate the hot air trapped under the hood when in slow moving traffic.
70 F100 LB 2WD, 360FE, E-Street EFI, TKO-500, 76K original miles.. follow my rebuild: The Lo-Buck Bumpside
71 F250 LB, 2WD, 360FE, T18, PS, PB, D60 with 4.11s
73 F100 SB 4WD, 390FE, NP435, +4 on 35s
01 Ferrari 360 Spider F1
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71 F250 LB, 2WD, 360FE, T18, PS, PB, D60 with 4.11s
73 F100 SB 4WD, 390FE, NP435, +4 on 35s
01 Ferrari 360 Spider F1
01 F150 SuperCrew Lariat 4WD
01 PT Cruiser Limited (DD)
68 Mustang
65 Mustang
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Re: Flooding carb 2100
Holley 1 inch phenolic spacer - solved all my hot start and boil over problems on my 360 with a 2bbl. Make sure you get 3 inch long studs if you keep your heater plate. Summit has them for $63.32 right now.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-17-72/overview/
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-17-72/overview/
"Life is a garden - dig it"...........
1968 F100 2wd - Rangoon Red - 360 w/T18 - power steering and brakes
1997 Honda CBR 900RR
1968 F100 2wd - Rangoon Red - 360 w/T18 - power steering and brakes
1997 Honda CBR 900RR
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Re: Flooding carb 2100
Thanks for posting the link... gonna rebuild the 2v on my 71 F250, road test, then swap to headers.Ohiotinkerer wrote:Holley 1 inch phenolic spacer - solved all my hot start and boil over problems on my 360 with a 2bbl. Make sure you get 3 inch long studs if you keep your heater plate. Summit has them for $63.32 right now.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-17-72/overview/
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Re: Flooding carb 2100
Thank you all for your thoughts.
I used a line of sight thermometer with lazor pointer to measure the temp of not only the base of the carb, but also the exhaust manifolds, intake, all pieces of the carb including inside the float bowl with and with out fuel. It was cool enough to leave my fingers in there like luke warm bath water. Pressing my fingers to the bottom of the float bowl and keeping them there indicated not that hot.
Pass side exhaust header 200* drivers side 145. Intake 153-168, carb and carb base the same. Used meat thermometer to measure fuel temp..... 127. budum ba. Don't seem hot enuf to me to boil fellers. All of this while it happily bubbles away.
I sucked out the gas, put the red lazer light on the bottom of the float bowl, 165 just like on the out side, top bottom and sides.
I like the spacer Idea I have used them before. This thing has duel exhaust, glass packs. No restriction.
It is a tired old motor, and as such does not have high compression anything.
I have taken the carb apart looking for any anomalies. Let it be known I do not run a carb shop.
1. the float was missing the spring clip for the needle. 2. the jets are dirty way down there, refuse to politely come out. 3.the lid to the carb is not sitting down all the way with the gasket out... if it is that close...4. last but not least the throttle shaft is hogged out. Needs rebushed.
I used a line of sight thermometer with lazor pointer to measure the temp of not only the base of the carb, but also the exhaust manifolds, intake, all pieces of the carb including inside the float bowl with and with out fuel. It was cool enough to leave my fingers in there like luke warm bath water. Pressing my fingers to the bottom of the float bowl and keeping them there indicated not that hot.
Pass side exhaust header 200* drivers side 145. Intake 153-168, carb and carb base the same. Used meat thermometer to measure fuel temp..... 127. budum ba. Don't seem hot enuf to me to boil fellers. All of this while it happily bubbles away.
I sucked out the gas, put the red lazer light on the bottom of the float bowl, 165 just like on the out side, top bottom and sides.
I like the spacer Idea I have used them before. This thing has duel exhaust, glass packs. No restriction.
It is a tired old motor, and as such does not have high compression anything.
I have taken the carb apart looking for any anomalies. Let it be known I do not run a carb shop.
1. the float was missing the spring clip for the needle. 2. the jets are dirty way down there, refuse to politely come out. 3.the lid to the carb is not sitting down all the way with the gasket out... if it is that close...4. last but not least the throttle shaft is hogged out. Needs rebushed.
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Re: Flooding carb 2100
But it is hot enough to cause the gas to vaporize and percolate through cooler liquid gas
Water boils at 200
Water boils at 200
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Re: Flooding carb 2100
I'd say it's time for complete rebuild or replacement. I've had great luck with these guys for a replacement carb. All 3 that I've bought from them have been bolt on and run. http://www.guaranteedcarburetors.com/pa ... ORS/1.html Everything I've bought has been for a small block so since you've got a 360 you should probably call them to make sure you get the right one.b_dog wrote: 1. the float was missing the spring clip for the needle. 2. the jets are dirty way down there, refuse to politely come out. 3.the lid to the carb is not sitting down all the way with the gasket out... if it is that close...4. last but not least the throttle shaft is hogged out. Needs rebushed.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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Re: Flooding carb 2100
I just sent them my Autolite 2100 to Guaranteed Carburetors for a rebuild because they do not have new in stock. The cost will be $158 + plus shipping with lifetime warranty.
I was also told that the carb will get immediate attention
I was also told that the carb will get immediate attention