390 on Dyno (video)
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Re: 390 on Dyno (video)
From what I see you have good CR and everything looks good. You didnt kill the heads with rolling that lip it will be ok. I still say 30507 cause now you have things apart you can set up for it(cut guides) easy enough. Other than a bit more cam I would only say rear gears and you have a really hot running 390. And if I were to pick a gear set with your combo prolly 3.50's
1972 F-250 4X4 390
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Re: 390 on Dyno (video)
Grooved stems means hard carbon or metal shavings were left inside. I asked about the PVC being on 3 because it will make it seem like #3 has bad rings or intake guides.
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Re: 390 on Dyno (video)
On the grooved valve, I ment like cut around the stem twords the head of the valve, thinner than the part that goes in the guide. The grooves don't go up and down.Dragon wrote:Grooved stems means hard carbon or metal shavings were left inside. I asked about the PVC being on 3 because it will make it seem like #3 has bad rings or intake guides.
What other thing could #3 be? The wall looks all good.
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Re: 390 on Dyno (video)
Oh all valves have that. The rings can be bad and the walls look great. Valve guide worn or bad rings. Not real bad but it is better to solve the problem now rather than on your 2nd 4th gear 6000 rpm blast.
Old Fords Rule
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71 F250 with Shell Car 390 NP435 Dana 60 3.73s, PS, PB, 750 EC VS Holley Accel Points Eliminator.
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Re: 390 on Dyno (video)
Take a close look at the old intake gasket, Fel Pros in particular are bad about pushing out and sucking oil out of the Valley. Its usually a fairly major failure, but it is within the realm of possibility that it was just sucking a little oil.sport71 wrote:What other thing could #3 be? The wall looks all good.
How many miles are on the engine? While it looks pretty good, it also appears to have some age on it?
I think you should pull those heads apart to clean the shavings out (and probably port the bowls) anyway so if the intake gasket looks good and the guide checks out then you can start worrying about the rings... while you have them off if you could CC the chambers that would really get a good read on the compression. (I'd guess it is 9.5-10) because the heads as cast can vary. plus since they have been "built" they may have been shaved...
I think I might be tempted to try the big Voo-Doo cam for a weekend play thing...much as I love Crower...
I am shocked that it was not pinging relentlessly with those pistons and the cam you had at 40 degrees. You might want to look at the distributor and its curve.
Robert
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Re: 390 on Dyno (video)
You guys are not going to beleave this, but I took another look inside the #3 wall after I moved the piston down and it has like a 4" gash running down the front side of the wall where you can't see it. So I called up the builder, he came from 55 miles away. He said he would need to sleeve it, and probably need to put a new piston. I'll just have them put the cam in with the work that they are going to do.
The motor has 849 miles on it now.
I'm going to go with the LUNATI 30507, since the shop that built the heads said that I would be pushing it at .600 with the springs, what type of spring set should I go with?
The motor has 849 miles on it now.
I'm going to go with the LUNATI 30507, since the shop that built the heads said that I would be pushing it at .600 with the springs, what type of spring set should I go with?
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Re: 390 on Dyno (video)
BUY EVERYTHING for the cam from LUNATI's recommendations!sport71 wrote:...what type of spring set should I go with?
Robert
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"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
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Re: 390 on Dyno (video)
Always on cams match cam to lifters to springs and retainers. Don't mix and match.
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Re: 390 on Dyno (video)
Exactly, buy whatever the camshaft manufacturer recommends.DuckRyder wrote:BUY EVERYTHING for the cam from LUNATI's recommendations!sport71 wrote:...what type of spring set should I go with?
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Re: 390 on Dyno (video)
Well that's what I'll do then.
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Re: 390 on Dyno (video)
It can't be! the #1 wall is the same and both are in the same area? What do you think they did wrong in the build? If you dotice it's in the same exact location..
#1
#3
#1
#3
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Re: 390 on Dyno (video)
Wrist pin/Keeper?
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Re: 390 on Dyno (video)
Broken ring and that would explain the oily look to #3 Something wrong with 2 wrist pins naw but two rings broken I have seen that more than once. That does not look bad enough to require sleeving unless it is already at .060 over.
Old Fords Rule
Was a Ford Service Tech
71 F250 with Shell Car 390 NP435 Dana 60 3.73s, PS, PB, 750 EC VS Holley Accel Points Eliminator.
98 Volvo S70 2.4T Auto
71 Service manuals Volumes 1,2,3 and 4 So ask away.
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98 Volvo S70 2.4T Auto
71 Service manuals Volumes 1,2,3 and 4 So ask away.
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Re: 390 on Dyno (video)
It is .040 over (L2291F-040).
I do think I would look at the piston pin retainers.
They are going to take care of it for you?
I do think I would look at the piston pin retainers.
They are going to take care of it for you?
Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)
"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
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Re: 390 on Dyno (video)
If so, it's strange that both cylinders broke rings in the same area.Dragon wrote:Broken ring and that would explain the oily look to #3 Something wrong with 2 wrist pins naw but two rings broken I have seen that more than once. That does not look bad enough to require sleeving unless it is already at .060 over.