390 fe 1971 f250. where to go from here.

[zac2zac2]

Hey! So recently I lsot my job and have had some extra time, so I decided to tear into an engine I had issues with over the past year. because the spin del on the harmonic balancer came off on the highway, It over heated a year ago and Since then I have let it sit and Started it about 3 times. once after the over heat which was more smokey and less clunky. Then to take it to the shop which was clunky and most recently which was really bad. One of which was to get tests done, but were never done because they said I just need a new engine because they couldn't turn it over. I later ran the compression test, but couldnt do the leak down because the connector to the compressor fitting and rental parts didnt match . The car had a few bad results. from front driver side back 125 120 50 15, psnger front to back 130 0 145 30 . When all fails do it yourself. I cant believe the shop said the engine wouldnt turn over. so dumb. I opened the valve covers to find bent rods. I toook off the carb>intake>cylinder heads and now have am looking at some nice bare cylinders. I took the heads c8ae-h to the machine shop today and they said it had hard seated valves and perhaps the valve guides would need to be redone.. I water tested the psger side head and the 0 from the compression test had a nice leak in the exast valve. all the trouble cylinders had carbon build up on valves, but not crazy. They are ganna magnaflux the heads n do a valve job with valve guides and a resurface and clean the intake and resurface for like 300 or something. I think its a good deal as new heads would be towards 4-600.

Do I need to pull the short block and inspect cams, hydrolic lifters, ect. I cant get a clear answer as to what could all could have happened to bend those rods. One person said lifters other said timing other said I need a new engine. Other said it was a misfire. SO this is why I am teaching myself. I bought how to rebuild a big block ford and am reading ALOT! one set of the hydrolic lifters came out when I pulled push rods for the driver side front cylinder. I was told I need new cam and lifters now because it would ware the cam out if the lifters were changed. SO.... Where to go from herre. DO I put the heads on and ignore the hydrolic lifters maybe switching, put in new rods and see where I stand? would that hurt any components. Do I need to pull the short block and inspect pistons ect. and consider a whole new rebuild. how much would that be? its so hard to find people who are trustworthy to deal with old cars. I have had 3 or 4 shops give me diff info. I have had even more refuse service, cause they dont know how to work on the carbs. IT has been trouble some so now I am becoming as much of an expert as possible on my truck. I am willing to post pics and what ever for help. all help is appreciated, but science is best! I was thinking jsut get new rods put head back on and then vacuume test for deeper issues like piston rings blown perhaps put a vacuume gauge on the dashboard. I have read it will identify a large breadth of lower engine issues and perfect for tuning. I am self taught so please be kind. I know im ignorant in some facets, thus why I am buying and reading books. ignorance is resolvable, stupidity is forever.

Eldebrock street master intake, 600 cfm edlebrock carb, c8ae-h heads, 9.1 compression ration cylinder(the brow mixed with the circle on the face) hydrolic lifters dont seem worn and I was told it was rebuilt in past 5 years. Partially confirmed by work done on heads already. thats as far down as ive got so far. it be nice to have a street rod-ish truck that can peel off the line, but I do alot of highway travel... they say having the goal is important when I read other threads.

[tac]

If all of the push rods are bent you may want to look at the top of your pistons to see if the valves were making contact with them. Possibly the timing chain has jumped which would explain overheating and running poorly. Does it backfire too? I would change everything, cam lifters, and timing set if you have the funds, or it may ruin the work done on the heads. Now that all the stuff is off the front of the engine...............

[zac2zac2]

okay so new cam and new hydro lifters/ maybe new timing cahin. were talking 3-400 for stock, do-able, 900 for performance. alls good and well, I got a book that tells me the sequential manner of putting it back together, adding and changing compnenets isnt in this book, if i choose a new cam, shouldnt it have dif lift open time blah blah all the stuff i am not really knowledgeable about. I gues its more directed at if I am going to do this, buy the 150$ lift from harbor frieght and pull the block. but if I go that route its a tumble weed road full of options im to ignorant to know better about. just alot of distraction. I could probably cut up to 1500 on the rebuild, but id want to add ac if i did that. I got a 2000 k2500 w a 454 ill sell after the jobs done. if i get a new cam how do I know pushrod length. If i got w perform cam shouldnt I get a better form of lifter? additionally I got a stock rocker assembly, wouldn't i need adjustable rockers at some point, adding another 300 to it. you see what my worries are about that route. would me starting it really blow the valve job I am getting done? all things to be considered.

it over heater due to the pulley on the harmonic balacer coming off mid highway ride, no overdrive means high rpming, then the water pump blowing out, thus no cooling platform for the engine, essentially nothing to do with pistons. the pistons look clean and piston walls are smooth as a babys bottom

[Mancar1]

If u are going that far, I would find the $$ to do the lower end also. Since you were able to do a compression test prior to tear down, did you do a dry and a wet test. If the compression went up on the wet test then you also need new rings.
Give the top end more get up and go without redoing the bottom end on a high mileage engine and it may not go the way you are looking for.
JMO
Keep on Trucking....John

[zac2zac2]

what kinda fundage are we talking about? i mean I layed out 1500 as doable budget... how much more? i didnt get to do a wet dry, i really woulda liked to do a leakdown, but ohh well. i told you wat I got so far, what would fit? just get new parts of what I got? or build up? and how? what size ect. This ford book isnt ment to tell me what parts to pick but rather how to put together and take apart. Should I get the performace book to help me make that desicion, I would say itll only be worth it if i could add good hp within a 1500-2000 budget

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Rebuild- ... 0511508051

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/pts/4757303864.html

http://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/pts/4707573444.html

[zac2zac2]

If u are going that far, I would find the $$ to do the lower end also. Since you were able to do a compression test prior to tear down, did you do a dry and a wet test. If the compression went up on the wet test then you also need new rings.
Give the top end more get up and go without redoing the bottom end on a high mileage engine and it may not go the way you are looking for.
JMO
Keep on Trucking....John

I have been reading alot trying to educate myself, are you saying I should get into the engine and tear it apart. fix rings inspect and replace, or do a rebuild. I was reading about stroker kits but they seem just as costly as a new create, are they worth it? so im just i little over whelmed and sorting through it all day by day. my heads are still being machined.

[390bump]

Unless you have lots of money to spend forget stroker... Take engine apart and inspect/measure everything. If cylinders are tapered block needs to be bored. Otherwise you can hone cylinders yourself and rebuild using new bearings, etc... Can spend 500 or 5000 dollars... make a budget and a parts list.