Lets get into this. [The worrisome 68]

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crazzmc
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Lets get into this. [The worrisome 68]

Post by crazzmc »

Alright. So this is my first ever actual vehicle. I've been driving around my parents cars for 4 years (went to university in NYC so never needed a vehicle) now I own a freight brokerage business and travel a bunch, but mainly I live in Atlanta and a small town called Seymour in Connecticut. Over the summer I bought this 68' F-100 beauty. I got it for $4,000 and honestly wasn't looking for a perfect truck. I wanted something I could make my own and with all the problems happening I think its actually the perfect truck to do that. So with YouTube, Fast n' Loud, and Fordification forum knowledge I got started.

Truck:

1968 F-100
302 (Supposedly rebuilt) w/ a C6 Transmission

My Progress:

Painted the seat
New Locks & Ignition
New Mirrors
New Steering Wheel
New Gauges
New Headlights
New Tail Lights

Issues:

Most of them are outlined here: http://fordification.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=740953
But as a recap:
Issues with idling too high
White smoke from exhausts
Fuel Smell
Sprayed oil out of the exhausts today
I changed the oil about 500 miles ago its pretty much black already
Leaking Transmission Gasket (Seems easy enough to fix)
Leaking Valve Covers (Just found out)

Questions:

What is going on lol?
What Carb do I have?

Pictures:

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Wonderful Artwork from yours truly the 68 F-100:

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Video - Gauges shown here and trying to show you the issues with the truck):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-BeCVYW ... e=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-BeCVYW ... e=youtu.be[/video]
Last edited by crazzmc on Sun Aug 05, 2018 9:49 am, edited 2 times in total.
Figuring out this whole restoring process with my 68' F100.
Rustybones
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Re: Lets get into this. [The worrisome 68]

Post by Rustybones »

What head lights are you using?
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Manny
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Re: Lets get into this. [The worrisome 68]

Post by Manny »

Awesome you got a thread going!! WOW that thing is nice what swank little short box!! The engine also looks pretty clean too and looks decent. Wirings a little rough but all old project trucks have sketchy wiring to be fixed it seems. So with pictures worth a thousand words here we go.

You have a dual feed vacuum secondary holley carb. Looks to be street avenger with electric choke. To find your holley model number removed the air cleaner and check the front of the choke horn as such here like these 1850's 3310 is another common number. What is yours??
Image

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Now something i know is wrong by the pictures is the vacuum advance. The black hose from the distributor is going to the base a full time vacuum port vacuum all the time.
Image

It should be to the timed vacuum port (vacuum only under throttle and load) where the yellow cap is. Now swap the two and see what changes on the truck idle may be lower but it may run really crappy as they have the timing jacked up with the vacuum and youll need to set it right. But something that needs corrected and adjusted here is the timed port on a holley.
Image
Just another Ford fool named Dan.
The Junk that hangs around
67' F-250 highboy Camper special cross breed currently under way
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=86706
1974 Bronco 302 3 speed
1984 bronco 302 c6 35's
1994 F350 7.3 5spd dually.
woods wrote: The rust holes in my truck were a factory install (very rare).
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Manny
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Re: Lets get into this. [The worrisome 68]

Post by Manny »

Second thing i am wondering is if your running on the choke all the time. The soot out the pipes is all that fuel smoke with some condensation not engine oil looks like which is good for you. But i am wondering i cant see from the picture but is there even a two wires on the choke? The black round housing passenger side of carb behind the timed vacuum port should have two wires on it. A ground to the - post and should have 12volts key on power to the + post. The electricity heats the coil and open the choke. 1-2 minutes of key on power.
Image

With the engine running 5-10 minutes and after a couple of blips of the throttle the choke plate should be fully open as such i think you may be stuck half closed.
Image

Another final thing for you to do.

1.) air cleaner removed and the engine idling.
2.)red fast idle cam behind choke housing on the right hand side of the carb. Take you finger and push it down to open the choke disengage fast idle. It may idle down and be right. it may die out cause the adjustments are so off. Just be aware if the choke is not powered and disengaging the moment your touch the gas it will close the choke and rev right back up.

That should make you dangerous be careful around the running engine and fan, but i want you to try these few things we will get this sorted. She looks to good to run crappy gotta get her sorted!!! :thup:
Just another Ford fool named Dan.
The Junk that hangs around
67' F-250 highboy Camper special cross breed currently under way
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=86706
1974 Bronco 302 3 speed
1984 bronco 302 c6 35's
1994 F350 7.3 5spd dually.
woods wrote: The rust holes in my truck were a factory install (very rare).
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Manny
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Re: Lets get into this. [The worrisome 68]

Post by Manny »

Oh also need to get a PCV system on the truck but first things first... :D
Just another Ford fool named Dan.
The Junk that hangs around
67' F-250 highboy Camper special cross breed currently under way
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=86706
1974 Bronco 302 3 speed
1984 bronco 302 c6 35's
1994 F350 7.3 5spd dually.
woods wrote: The rust holes in my truck were a factory install (very rare).
crazzmc
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Re: Lets get into this. [The worrisome 68]

Post by crazzmc »

Rustybones wrote:What head lights are you using?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0725 ... UTF8&psc=1

I was wondering why no one was replying but for some reason my notifications were off.

The only thing I'd be careful on choosing when buying from different suppliers is the App that they have. This although Chinese made works quite well and connects quickly with bluetooth.
Last edited by crazzmc on Sun Dec 03, 2017 12:21 am, edited 1 time in total.
Figuring out this whole restoring process with my 68' F100.
crazzmc
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Re: Lets get into this. [The worrisome 68]

Post by crazzmc »

Manny wrote:Awesome you got a thread going!! WOW that thing is nice what swank little short box!! The engine also looks pretty clean too and looks decent. Wirings a little rough but all old project trucks have sketchy wiring to be fixed it seems. So with pictures worth a thousand words here we go.

You have a dual feed vacuum secondary holley carb. Looks to be street avenger with electric choke. To find your holley model number removed the air cleaner and check the front of the choke horn as such here like these 1850's 3310 is another common number. What is yours??


Now something i know is wrong by the pictures is the vacuum advance. The black hose from the distributor is going to the base a full time vacuum port vacuum all the time.

It should be to the timed vacuum port (vacuum only under throttle and load) where the yellow cap is. Now swap the two and see what changes on the truck idle may be lower but it may run really crappy as they have the timing jacked up with the vacuum and youll need to set it right. But something that needs corrected and adjusted here is the timed port on a holley.
Alright Manny heres what I got. Looks like an 80508 Carb. The exact numbers are 80508-9 3393

I type that in on google and can't find anything about it. I see the normal 80508 carbs but no idea about the -9 and 3393.

Here's a bunch of photos. I was also trying to figure out why it was only grounded and the other pin was left blank. I'm trying to run through my memory if anything was plugged in there but I can't remember.

There was 1 red wire (its actually that red wire you see with the black electrical tape in the 1st photo) hanging off near the distributor it plugs into the slot on the distributor that says "TACH" in the last photo and it gives my tach its reading. I am not sure if that was connected to it because it wasn't crimped at the end, but I did connect from my distributor to my tach and it does work.

Good to know that its not oil coming out of my exhaust. I do have a question though. Could my carb being completely off mess around with my oil? I replaced my oil probably around 100 miles ago and its pitch black again.

Image

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Image

Image

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Figuring out this whole restoring process with my 68' F100.
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Manny
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Re: Lets get into this. [The worrisome 68]

Post by Manny »

crazzmc wrote:
Good to know that its not oil coming out of my exhaust. I do have a question though. Could my carb being completely off mess around with my oil? I replaced my oil probably around 100 miles ago and its pitch black again.
It appears you have a Holley street avenger carb. Fine piece nothing wrong with it. Have to research that number find if its 570-670-770 cfm. It may be a little big for the motor buttttttt.......

There is a big problem with having no choke power. Reason you never idle down. The oil yes no doubt that carb is running stupid rich with a closed choke. filling the oil with soot and raw gas. Also fouling the plugs turning them black, and causing all the water fuel soot in the exhaust. The ground is good on the choke. You need a key on 12 volt positive power source to that choke. So the ignition hot power wire to the hei could be a possibility. You have some wiring that you will clean up later. The thing you need right now is to get 12 volts hot with the key in run to the positive side of the choke coil. Go find it with a volt meter and wire it up. I say volt meter as the ignition wire on old fords can still be 9.6 volts that is not enough for the choke coil need 12 volts. Lets get that sorted then we can run thru carb tuning and ignition tuning to get it smooth. :thup:
Just another Ford fool named Dan.
The Junk that hangs around
67' F-250 highboy Camper special cross breed currently under way
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=86706
1974 Bronco 302 3 speed
1984 bronco 302 c6 35's
1994 F350 7.3 5spd dually.
woods wrote: The rust holes in my truck were a factory install (very rare).
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DuckRyder
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Re: Lets get into this. [The worrisome 68]

Post by DuckRyder »

I don’t think it is actually a Street Avenger. 80508 is a 750CFM “Classic”

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_sy ... s/0-80508S

https://youtu.be/7l2_KoUR6eg[/video]

Interesting that that Carb has a Ford kick down, but it appears it was converted to a Lokar cable, are you sure it is a C4?

As manny pointed out definitely need to get a 12V keyed source on that choke.

750 is pretty big for a 302...
Robert
1972 F100 Ranger XLT (445/C6/9” 3.50 Truetrac)

"An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -- Jeff Cooper
crazzmc
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Re: Lets get into this. [The worrisome 68]

Post by crazzmc »

DuckRyder wrote:I don’t think it is actually a Street Avenger. 80508 is a 750CFM “Classic”

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_sy ... s/0-80508S

https://youtu.be/7l2_KoUR6eg[/video]

Interesting that that Carb has a Ford kick down, but it appears it was converted to a Lokar cable, are you sure it is a C4?

As manny pointed out definitely need to get a 12V keyed source on that choke.

750 is pretty big for a 302...

I've been told it has a C4. I do know that the speedometer gear is the19 teeth tan. And I know that a generic ford speedo sensor fits. I haven't looked for numbers on my block or tranny I'll find out where these numbers are written and figure out exactly what I have.
Figuring out this whole restoring process with my 68' F100.
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