Graham's '68 F-100 - Engine swap week

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fbomb100
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Re: Graham's '68 F-100 "Buck" the truck

Post by fbomb100 »

looking good .. nice job on the seat belts!!
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Re: Graham's '68 F-100 "Buck" the truck

Post by motzingg »

thanks! glad nobody has flamed me for hacking them in so crudely.

ran an errand this weekend and truck died, fuel filter plugged again but that's not what did it. Methinks crap in the carb, but i'm hoping its not something electrical.

Battery keeps running down when it sets for a couple days. Carb clean and DMM session tonight!
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Re: Graham's '68 F-100 "on the road again"

Post by Fordnatic »

[quote\]
I guess this would be a good time to quickly describe the process i've been using for setting my timing. If you are a seasoned distributor junkie you can probably skip this. I turn the engine over to TDC on #1. I'm not sure how to tell if it is TDC on the compression stroke or TDC on the exhaust stroke without removing the valve cover, so I've just done trial-and-error. If it backfires, flip it 180. I note where the cap goes on the distributor and put the rotor about there, the helical gear will cause it to turn counterclockwise about 10 degrees, so set it at about 10 degrees from lining up with the #1 pole. It will only go in at one of 12 places, i think? However many teeth there are on the gear, so you have a 50/50 chance that if you get it close it will be right. Once it is in, you can put the cap on halfway and look through there and swivel it back and forth until it lines up the rotor with pole #1. Since you don't know exactly where your timing will be without it running, get a friend, neighbor in my case, to swivel the dizzy back and forth through a 20 degree sweep while you crank it. It should light up pretty quickly once you hit the 'sweet spot' then you can adjust it by ear to get it close enough to stay idling and get a timing light on it. [/quote]

To find out if it is TDC on compression or exhaust stroke I just pull the spark plug and put my thumb over the hole. If it blows air out, that's the compression stroke.
70F100: 410 Merc with tri-power, close ratio toploader, 4.56 detroit locker 9"
68F100 4x4: 390, 4 spd/NP 205, Rancho 4" urethane susp, 35x12.50 All Terrain T/A's
55F100
01F150 Daily Driver: TP tunes, AF1 intake, elec fans, Magnaflow exh, underdrive pulleys, Centerlines
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Re: Graham's '68 F-100 "Buck" the truck

Post by motzingg »

cool, thanks. i've gotten pretty good at setting the distributor now and aside from doing some major engine work in the far future, or taking the DS unit back out to put a proper wiring pigtail on it, i'll be leaving it well enough alone.

this is what i got started on after work on thursday:
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i'll update when i get a chance to finish it up, hopefully wednesday night. My wife is back in school as of today so i'm back to Mr. Mom after work 2 days a week and watching our little man all weekend while she does homework.
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Re: Graham's '68 F-100 "Buck" the truck

Post by mcheath »

Really nice work on those seat belts. Cutting into the cab wall was clever and looks like it worked well.
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Re: Graham's '68 F-100 "Buck" the truck

Post by motzingg »

Thanks! I'm still planning on tack welding those brackets to the sheet metal to spread out the force/ make it so you can remove the ratchet without loosing the bracket, but for now it is working great, feels very solid.


Finally got the pictures off my camera from 2 weeks ago. The truck died on me while running a little errand around town, then i got it started but wouldn't idle, had to drive home alternating between full throttle and the engine dying.... kinda sketchy.

This is why:
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The pictures don't really do the crustiness justice. There is a good 1/16th" of sediment filth in this carb. Its very fine, fine enough to pass through a big paper filter and the crappy built in mesh filter. It is small enough to go through the jet, but sitting on the bottom of the carb and settling/scumming up like that has turned it into a nasty cake that jammed up the needle, small jets, and accelerator pump.

That was the 'push' i needed to start work on the 2v motorcraft 2100 (2150?) conversion.

The manifold came off super easy, some kind previous owner had been considerate enough to anti-seize the bolts holding the intake/exhaust in place. I don't think the two manifolds had been separated for quite some time however as the three bolts holding them together were quite crusty.

I got the intake chocked up in the mill. The carb flange and the exhaust flange aren't parellel so I used a slightly cobbled together apparatus to keep it in place. Worked well enough, especially for what i'm doing here.

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I thought this was interesting- the front vacuum line (which on my truck was connected to the distributor advance) has a little orifice in it. In this case the orifice is completely plugged solid shut by what appears to be EGR soot or perhaps incinerated PCV fumes crusted all over the inside of the manifold. The new carb has ported vacuum built in to it, so i'll be running my dizzy off of that, but this may explain some of knocking i've seen at heavy load conditions.

Good to know for anybody who is pulling vacuum off of that front line for something else.

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This is where i started to get a bit nervous, I knew the passages went up on either side of the intake, but I didn't realize the whole carb mounting flange was hollow underneath. I was hoping to avoid cutting all this down too thin, as I still need to figure out how to attach the adapter plate to the manifold.

At this point, I had already realized that one of the mounting 'ears' on the intake manifold was broken, so I wasn't too concerned about scrapping this if i had to. I'd rather save it if I can, but it wouldn't be the end of the world if i had to find a new one.

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Skip ahead a bit of head scratching, measuring and soul searching- me trying to decide what to do, use filler (JB Weld) and make it up or just keep cutting until i found a flat surface....
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When in doubt, keep cutting. I took a big end mill and worked slowly by hand cutting out the biggest hole i could in the stock casting, while maintaining 3/16 or so mating surface around the hole.

The last picture i have is me trying to figure out how to attach the spacer plate to the manifold. I tried drilling the small hole you see off to the edge of the machined surface, but was shocked to find the casting thickness was less than 1/8" at that point... not enough for a screw thread. I didn't want to try something goofy putting nuts inside the manifold so I took a step back and tried to figure out what to do.

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I started making the adapter plate from a big slab of steel, but got some numbers mixed up (this was 7 pm after being at work for 13 hours with no dinner) and scrapped the piece. I took some time later to do a proper drafting of the part i needed to make and where i needed to drill/cut. I'm going to be staying after work today to get the piece made and i'll be lucky if i get pictures and a writeup of the thrilling conclusion done within the next week or two.

Also still have to rebuld the carb and figure out what i'm going to do about getting 2 big holes into one oddly shaped bigger hole. If it isn't obvious from the pictures, the carb venturii's are going to overhang the width of the tapered obround slot dingus hole by about a 1/4" all around, and i'll have to funnel them down into one hole. Haven't quite figured out how i'm going to pull that off yet, but it will probably involve a lot of hand grinder work and some sort of thick aluminum spacer. Possibly a lamination of several thin aluminum sheets
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Re: Graham's '68 F-100 "Buck" the truck

Post by motzingg »

If anyone has suggestions about how far i should bring the 2 seperate venturii's down from the carb or what kind of shaping i should do for the transition, i'm all ears. I know there is a fair bit of colloquial knowledge out there about the various types of risers, how big or what configuration the holes should be for different things, so i'd like to hear what everyone has to say.

Right now i'm thinking the adapter plate will be about 3/4" steel, I will have the siameesed outer profile of the two venturii cut into the top, and taper them in/out to the profile on the bottom. Or should i make the whole adapter with the profile of the hole on the bottom and do the transition in another plate stacked on top of that?

How much total riser should i have? Is it important to have a flat plate with just the two venturii holes in it directly adjacent to the base of the carb to cover up all these passages?
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from the other stuff i've seen on the internet, fordsix and other places, i'm kinda out in the weeds here. I'm sure hot rod dudes were doing this all the time 30 years ago, but i haven't seen any pictures or writeups on how they laid it all out. Plus i'm totally new to doing this kind of work with big old american iron like this.
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Re: Graham's '68 F-100 "Buck" the truck

Post by motzingg »

yup, made another attempt at the adapter plate and scrapped it again.. ugh... this is proving to be much trickier than i thought, i'm using the bolts coming up from the exhaust manifold bolts... problem is, they are at an angle. when i drilled the holes for them i forgot to include the angle in the measurements so the whole thing was sitting about 1/4" off.... DOH!

also realized about 1.5 hours into the project that i had accidentally grabbed a hunk of 4140 when i went to drill it and it was harder than crap. I'm trying to come up with a better way to do it now.
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Re: Graham's '68 F-100 "Buck" the truck

Post by motzingg »

quick picture update, because thats all anyone cares about anyhow:

truck got a bath, frustrated with not being able to get anything done in the machine shop, i washed off many years of grime and mildew.. surprise! the truck underneath isn't half bad looking. the paint job is so bad, it would probably be 80% good looking if i just wet-sanded the bad paint.

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I had to take a weekend off to pull my wife's engine and put new head gaskets and torque converter seal in her tranny.

1 pm on saturday:
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3 am sunday morning after removing engine, rebuilding it, fixing trans and re-installing everything

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bummer... back to topic

got this finished up last week, then instead of installing it I went to a motorcycle show on saturday and partied with some friends all night, then worked on mopeds the rest of the weekend

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the carb got rebuilt last night with some shiny new stainless SHCS hardware just to impress the Honda Civic guys down at the tasty-freeze

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Re: Graham's '68 F-100 "Buck" the truck

Post by tdc »

haa graham! funny to see another moped kids on these forums, funner still that we both picked up 68 fords! i'm loving what you're doing, i've got the same goals for mine as you've for yours, so i'm going to be paying special attention to what you're doing to see if i can copy any of it. hehehe
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Re: Graham's '68 F-100 "Buck" the truck

Post by Ranchero50 »

motzingg wrote:then instead of installing it I went to a motorcycle show on saturday and partied with some friends all night, then worked on mopeds the rest of the weekend
So, you are one of those mopagan's who wear leather while terrorizing the neighborhood on your 50cc buzz box?
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Re: Graham's '68 F-100 "Buck" the truck

Post by motzingg »

NO $#IT TERRY DEAN! Lets whore the tits out this forum beyaaaaaaach!

whats up bro, i saw you were tryin' to get into one of these, awesome man. I love this truck. Its like a big moped only easier to work on because you can buy hardware from regular hardware stores. I went to O'riley and they had my exhaust/intake gasket, carb rebuild kit, exhaust donut gasket, fuel filter all in stock, when would that ever happen with a moped?

Ranchero, why do i get the impression that you know my friend Ed Exline?

In other news, my carb linkage hits and both the studs going from my exhaust manifold into my intake broke off. Mega bonerkill. Good news is, the dude who runs the CNC machine is on vacation for a week so i can get on it and sling some chips, make a nice carb spacer, maybe run off a couple while i'm at it.

As far as the broken stud goes... esh, I broke off a nice (not china *****) tap extractor in it on sunday, brought it into work today, if i have time after work i'm gonna try to blow it out with the plasma cutter maybe. There is no way in hell that i'll be able to drill through that extractor at this point.
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Re: Graham's '68 F-100 "Buck" the truck

Post by Ranchero50 »

motzingg wrote:As far as the broken stud goes... esh, I broke off a nice (not china *****) tap extractor in it on sunday, brought it into work today, if i have time after work i'm gonna try to blow it out with the plasma cutter maybe. There is no way in hell that i'll be able to drill through that extractor at this point.

Center cutting carbide end mill, be gentle with it and it'll eat out the extractor.
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Contact me for CNC Dome Lamp Bezels and Ash Tray pulls.
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Re: Graham's '68 F-100 "Buck" the truck

Post by motzingg »

yeah, i've only got a couple 1/4 carbides at work and i can't risk killing one with this stupid thing. i've had pretty good luck blowing them out with plasma then using a pliers and punch to tear the threads out.

plus fixturing this thing in a mill... good luck!

seriously though, do you know Ed, i'm pretty sure he's from Hagerstown or that area of MD and he is the only person i know who uses the term 'mopagean'
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Re: Graham's '68 F-100 "Buck" the truck

Post by derbydad276 »

here is a epoxy idea this is the stuff they use for cement rebar epoxy a stud in this stuff it will never come out
http://www.itwredhead.com/submittals.php
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