Project "I Must Be Nuts" - On the road!

[71PA_Highboy]

Ok,

So the OB (see avatar) needed some work... Let's be honest, she needed to be sent to the glue factory, but I couldn't do it.

Over the last few years I have been acquiring parts to fix her (among other things), but life has just accelerated the project plan. I have to move to Columbus Ohio this summer and I have to work every other week in Columbus. That gives me roughly 3.5 months of being home to get this and everything else in order to move.

As she sits now, there is not a single nut, bolt or screw in place on the body or frame, the body parts are not home, the frame is on it's side, nothing but the frame is painted and the engine is ~90% assembled.

Not a single piece of previous sheet metal is usable, so everything is bring replaced. So far the following has been done:

Frame media blasted and painted, all sheet metal at the media blasters, replacement axles rebuilt (D60 F&R) and enough parts collected that I think I have all the important stuff covered. New wiring harness still in the box.

There are still some minor outstanding issues like body bushings, paint, assembly, wiring, plumbing and assembly, so that will be the focus of this project thread. If you want to know how to take it apart, you are too late..

I will post some pictures of what I am doing at any one moment, but if there is something you would like to see, let me know... everything is pretty visible...

Here are some past pics:
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... =7&t=63634

Anyway, more later....

[71PA_Highboy]

Frame back from the Blaster:



After painting - Set aside for the moment:



Cab is back:




Under the vents - Both sides are like this:


That is the state as of 5:30 PM 1/18/12 ... more later

[71PA_Highboy]

Last night and today was bodywork day...

Fixed dents in the cab:





The old vent bottoms:



New Vent Bottom:


The only hole in the floorpan:


Then I made a bigger hole... I cut out the tranny tunnel for the 4 speed cover... but forgot to take a pic.

I also disassembled the heater assy and decided the LMC heater foam kit is crap, so I will have to get some foam.

I think that is it... for today

[whiteblur]

Just curious on what you paid to get your frame blasted as well as your cab?

[71PA_Highboy]

Frame was $240, haven't received the bill yet..

[whiteblur]

I appreciate it Just wondering what ppl are paying to have it done

[averagef250]

Looking forward to it!

[71PA_Highboy]

1st coat of primer:




I am using CXP310G self etching primer on the bare metal where it will be finish painted, and Hirsch's Miracle Paint where the finish is semi-gloss black (frame, inner fenders, bottom and floor of cab).

I chose the Green because I prefer a different base color, then a grey primer so I know if I have cut too deeply.

I will be doing the miracle paint tomorrow, so the masked areas will be reversed, and the cab will be on it's back.

Wish me luck!

[19ford71]

Looks awesome. I'm excited to see more!

[sopikp1]

Awesome project, we do have a lot in common.

For the other post, I paid $600 to get my frame blasted and powder coated, and $100 each for my two axles. Other small parts just add to the bill but it's worth it.

Keep it up!

Kevyn

[Manny]

Cool deal that thing looks good. Nothing like a move to get your project rolling. Can't wait for me. Keep up telling us what paint products your using curious to see your input on them

[71PA_Highboy]

Well, no pics today, as yesteday was body work and some more green primer. I sanded the entire body with 180 to smooth the surface, then put on a second coat. One of the issues with blasting the sheet metal the way I did is that it makes the surface quite rough, so when you wipe it down you get lots of fibers from the towels.... so you you get lots of fibers in the paint even after you clean it up... so a sanding and re-prime is reqired.

The part I like about the etching primer I have chosen is that is is OK to use above and below fillers, unlike some others. You need to rough the surface before you bondo over the primer though.

I also had to replace a part of the from cab mounts, the flat where the rubber busing sits... so I cut out the old pieces and welded in some 16GA pieces.... Looks good and you wont be able to tell it was done.

Finally, the skim coat of filler to even out the places where the body work was done... no matter how good you are there is always some kind of filler... so the initial fill is done...

So it sits there, all green, and will wait until next saturday ( when I get home) to get back at it.

[whiteblur]

Im wondering if this is right, correct me if im wrong. Once you get it blasted you need to prime it. What I was thinking of doing on my parts is blast, prime, guide coat, block sand to find my body work areas work them, apply putty over the bondo, then do a double prime and block before paint.

[Manny]

Nah its all good you are very busy. Thanks much for going through your paint products for me. Who is that primer made by. (the spot next door to me is Sherman williams automotive that was Martin Seymour) Cool stuff that cab looks like it was quite good before but some great stuff.

[Manny]

Im wondering if this is right, correct me if im wrong. Once you get it blasted you need to prime it. What I was thinking of doing on my parts is blast, prime, guide coat, block sand to find my body work areas work them, apply putty over the bondo, then do a double prime and block before paint.

Your right on the money. Most shops that Blast for ya will spray your parts down with a water based ospho type solution to prevent flash rusting so you can get it home. Once your ready to work scrub it down with some Tri sodium phosphate, then dry, hit with wax and grease remover Dx330 dx440 stuff. Then depending on primer you can filler stuff below or over. Hit with some high build primer as pa highboy is right now then fill if you have not already couple of primer surfacer and block rounds then primer sealer and hit it with the color. Your on the right track all the way with what you have in mind.