To Flair or not to flair I can't get it rite.

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IBFordInternational
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To Flair or not to flair I can't get it rite.

Post by IBFordInternational »

I'm back with some new conundrum that the limited local's don't know or are to snobbish to answer correctly. My 1969 F250 Y series engine autolite 2100 manual choke carburetor rebuild is finished and sitting pretty on the crud crusted intake manifold. In the process of removing said Carb and using a NAPA bought Evercrest or crust tube wrench set to round out the flaring nut. I destroyed the Carb to Pump steel fuel line, well just the nut to the carb. I went to the Part's store for replacement stuff thinking that's what they carry and sure enough they don't have the nut's and only brake line replacement tube. I felt great walking home without the needed replacement parts again. I did buy a 60" section thinking I could remove the damaged nut from the original fuel line, cut the 60" apart and re-flair with the new nut. All would be fine except my flaring tool is single flair only and none of my distant Cohort's have a double flaring set-up. I tried the single flair and the line won't seat tight, the steel is old and brittle being 45+ years old and now I've learned that there are 2 different angles that steel tubes are flared at. I'm going to buy a flaring tool for automotive work, as mine is for plumbing, which angle is for fuel lines and which angle is for brake it's 37 or 45 Deg, and a tool maker recommendation will be better than a guess. Thanks, P.S. I'm still walking and will have to mail order any helpful or recommended tools or part's to find out how well my Carb overhaul went.
ddcrim
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Re: To Flair or not to flair I can't get it rite.

Post by ddcrim »

Just go to Autozone and borrow one.....
Dave Severson
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Re: To Flair or not to flair I can't get it rite.

Post by Dave Severson »

Brake lines are 45 degrees, double flare. Guess I'm not sure on stock fuel lines (don't use any), but 37 degree single flare is used for fitting tubing to AN flares....
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Re: To Flair or not to flair I can't get it rite.

Post by cep62 »

I've used the new style "bubble" flare on my fuel line to slide a rubber hose over.
it works good and is easier than a double flare. :2cents:
IBFordInternational
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Re: To Flair or not to flair I can't get it rite.

Post by IBFordInternational »

I don't think there is a AutoZone in the county, but that's a good Idea to maybe rent one .I'll check to see if we still have a rental company in the county. Can any one explain what AN refers to I've seen the acromion mentioned in many different manufactures sites? along with DIN and SAE, what is a ball end used for, is it to act as a stop for a worm type compression clamp with rubber type fuel hose. I watched some u-tube videos on making flares it seems that the critical aspect is to get a burr free 90 deg cut. My tubing cutter made by ridged cuts very well and after trying more practice flairs they still come out lopsided, must be me that's off kilter, but I still am in the market for a tool and now I will buy one that doe stainless and metric. I am looking at the Eastwood company tool, any good or bad remarks will help spend the money. Also after talking to the mechanic at the Trucking Depot I will never spend money having them turn nut's, I just think they must be on heavy drugs or something. This must seem like I'm a bitcher and that may be. I just need the work to be done correctly, If I must do it my self than so be it.
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Re: To Flair or not to flair I can't get it rite.

Post by duaneo »

I haven't dealt with your particular issue, but in a couple of of other scenarios, it was easier for me to buy a cheap tool on Amazon than it was for me to source a rental for the same tool. If someone is going to charge me $12 to rent a puller that I can get for $18 online, I'd rather have the tool in the box for later. :)

I see double flaring kits on amazon for $26

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Dave Severson
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Re: To Flair or not to flair I can't get it rite.

Post by Dave Severson »

AN refers to Army Navy standard, an old acronym for sure! Anyway, AN sizing is all done in -numbers. ie -4, -6, -10 etc which is really no big mystery once it's understood, the -number refers to how may 1/16's of an inch the size is. -4 lines and fittings are 4/16" inside diameter, or 1/4". -8 is 8/16" diameter or 1/2" ID, other -numbers are the same. I generally use AN fittings and hose on race car stuff, and some street stuff just to get that upgraded appearance and as in the case of fuel lines an extra bit of safety based on the extra pressure that AN lines and fittings are made to handle.

Hope this clears up your question, if not let me know and I'll try to help you out more!
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IBFordInternational
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Re: To Flair or not to flair I can't get it rite.

Post by IBFordInternational »

I decided to buy a on-line stainless steel OME designed part. I had some trepidation due to some date listed by the seller but the part looked correct thou the flare nuts were covered by red part protectant dip stuff. I also ordered some bending tools for tubing Ill be making for future brake system upgrades and to save on shipping by spending more doe. The company shipped the bulk of the order supper fast receiving them the following day. Dam if the gas line is backwards to what I need and is not with two threaded fasteners. I'm now going to order a flaring tool some nuts and tube and Ill do a temp jury rig, so I can drive to pick up my other necessities. Spending money and ordering with the computer, parts you cant touch and see in person really hasn't helped me. This new way of living to me is more stressful. Thanks for the info about AN, if you know about the other fitting acronym's spell-it -out, I will certainly benefit for the knowledge.
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Re: To Flair or not to flair I can't get it rite.

Post by Dave Severson »

SAE is for Society of Automotive Engineers, sets standards on thread pitches and depths along with other measurement standards for hardware on cars. Generally, SAE is sizes for US fractional sizing, while most everything else is Metric other then some oddball older stuff that was a British engineering standard, generally somewhere between SAE and Metric fine threads with no taper. DIN--guess I can't say what that is in regards to fittings and sizes.
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Re: To Flair or not to flair I can't get it rite.

Post by fordman »

Thinking or heat soak. And not correctness. A short stub is recommended to come from carb. Then hooked to rubbet line which then connects to the rest or the pump line.
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Re: To Flair or not to flair I can't get it rite.

Post by Ranchero50 »

Usually a quick trip to NAPA with the offending part will source the correct fittings and tube.

Bending the tubing is a study in patience and control vs. power.
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Re: To Flair or not to flair I can't get it rite.

Post by AZf100 »

I Bent all my Brake, Transmission, and Fuel Lines myself. I Didn't get really good at it unit I was done :lol: . It Is a struggle to get it down but not impossible. My truck was completely disassembled when I did this, Makes life a lot easier.
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